photography by Ingrid Jacobsen

'Couture Black' - A Manifesto of Shades and Shapes

Written by Ksenia Rundin

Yesterday Sven-Harry’s art museum was housing ten unique couture pieces conceived by ten second-year fashion designer students from Beckmans College of Design under the guidance of their director and prominent Swedish designer Pär Engsheden. 'Black Couture' was expected to be a fashion show but happened to be a peculiar experience. The museum space had all of a sudden turned into a vivid theatre scene, where models, wearing entirely black couture pieces, were literally performing, instead of traditionally walking on a catwalk.

The audience was generously invited to participate in the performance by experiencing the craftsmanship of couture, while observing the playfulness of homogeneous black textures, silhouettes and forms the performing models were theatrically demonstrating.

The performance started in the basement and continued on the top floor, taking the audience step by step through different forms and cuts of the couture science. There was a sincere moment of co-creation between the audience and fashion, where the authenticity of couture were dancing tango with the identity of the young designers making the beholders’ imagination frequently search for references. Some associations I had were Les Ballets Suédois and Joséphine Baker, ‘The Matrix’ (1999), ‘Blade Runner’ (1982) with its neo-noir science fiction, Martin Margiela, Renaissance, an element of Orientalism with a rebellious twist and Gothic rock. The performance has definitely become a 'hancrafted' experience manifesting that black has a lot of shades and shapes.