• GRIND – A MOMENT OF TRUTH WITH YOUR OWN SELF

    Written by Ksenia Rundin

    Yesterday I discovered that silence could be constructed of something immaterial. A darkness followed by a sound and a light went through my emotions, my thoughts and my body, turning into a material product – the silence. Surrounded by the Bauhausian atmosphere of the Orion Theatre in the company of approximately two hundred people, with a pitch darkness squeezing me, electric sounds hunting my blood and a feeble light manifesting its fragility, I felt left in a dead silence completely alone with my body leaning from the fifth row desperately trying to reach the stage. It was a pure moment of me experiencing the authentic nudity of my inner self. Jefta van Dinther was performing his imminent GRIND, while I was grinding away in my fears, memories and desires, having dialogue with myself. It felt like during one of those moments when you are standing in front of an audience and the silence gets so deep that you have an obligation to break it here and now. Yesterday, was the moment when I had no choice but to break the unbearable silence between me and myself.

    Glancing back at the history of modern dance and performance art, I think of John Cunningham’s idea that no medium should be subordinate, where he used music and décor as independent elements as opposed to complementing the choreography. Jefta van Dinther, Minna Tikkainen and David Kiers have now moved a step forward, creating both a new dimension for uniting the independence of movement, sound and light and also a unique way of perceiving those as a new material product. The product in its turn becomes unique for every individual beholder based on the individual complexity of his/her mind containing memories and feelings. Such approach can be considered very democratic as the influences, which you as a spectator become a subject for, are merely based on your own feelings and experiences. You are alone in your game, where you are exposed to your own self. Isn’t that a kind of experience we need in our times of political uncertainty, fashion race and social insanity based on the power of consumerism, exterminating our ability to stay individual? GRIND is a pure luxury to have a look inside your own self.

    How did you decide to become a dancer? When did you first time discover dance as an art form?
    It is a long story that goes back to my very early ages. Normally, I would say that my dance story starts with my proper dance training, which began when I was seventeen and I entered the dance school already one year after that in Amsterdam. I moved to Amsterdam when I was eighteen, studied there and had a bit of a normal trajectory as a dancer, slowly becoming a choreographer. But in fact, I think it started a lot earlier. I grew up in quite precarious situation. My parents were missionaries and they would travel around the world and I would actually have my first performance experience on the streets as a kid. So I would be a storyteller, staging stories from the Bible. My parents would perform on the streets and I would be the flower. That was actually the first time when I was performing in front of people. And then I also was, as a kid, a part of Christian groups that would do singing and dancing on the streets. I only made the connection to the kind of performing I do nowadays quite late in my life. In a way, the lifestyle is very similar.

    So, your art was kind of born out of a religious mission?
    In a way. In a way you can say that. And I think my work, my art work deals a lot with, what people keep calling, - something religious. I guess, it has spiritual quests. There is something about transcending, what is the material world and how do we use the material world to transcend to the immaterial world.

    How did the idea of this particular collaboration in GRIND between you, Minna Tikkainen and David Kiers arise?
    It started with Minna and me. We had known each other for a very long time, because I was dancing in productions, where she was a lighting designer for. And we said like “Let’s try to do something. Let’s meet and see how to work together!” Then we got a residence here in Stockholm at Weld, a space by Odenplan. It is an amazing space, a studio in a basement, like a shaft. They gave us a chance without any demands. They practically said, “Here you have the studio. Play around!” We started in materials and ideas that we had not managed to fit in other productions. Very soon we started noticing that it started boiling down to a kind of concept, which had to do with synaesthesia. We did not start studying synaesthesia. We did not want to get into it from the theoretical point of view. But we were interested in this idea of what happens when elements start to mix in way that they also become inseparable. And how music, light and choreography or body starts to act as if it was synesthetic. To perceive sound through the body or a light as sound, or vice versa. Later we brought in David Kiers, the sound designer. How could we create a body that exists because of the kind of intertwinement of these elements? How does it create something that is not light, nor sound, nor choreography, but actually is another kind of body that only can exist because of this interaction? So, if you put on the light, it would kill the show. If you turn off the sound, it would kill the show. If you took out the body, it would kill the show. Looking for only materials that actually create that otherness together.

    It is very interesting concept, because the body here loses its centrality which it used to have in traditional dance, like ballet. The angles and forms it creates becomes unimportant.
    Exactly! There was a kind of movement, a kind of stream of taking away the body. It was a conceptual approach to dance where choreography can exist not only in movements of the body but also could be a movement of plastic bags or something like that. Here, I think, in the end what we are choreographing is something immaterial, very dark. It is literally very dark in the show, you hardly know what you see. You can see the stuff but you cannot actually grasp what you see. But it is something about that it really collides with your perception and it brings about some sort of almost like a hallucinatory state. Thus, it is very material, although immaterial.

    In one of your interviews you were talking about your other show “Plateau Effects” and you said, “Think of the performance as plateau effects. Let’s say various plateaus that change level but are also stable.” How should we think of GRIND in such case?
    Many of my pieces deal with a kind of plateauing. Someone wrote once “Jefta is equivalent to a slow food cook in choreography.” The time is really elastic, stretched out. I often work with very slow progressions of building up, you have this tension that evolves but extremely slowly. It really builds up in you and you need it to change. And I think GRIND does that too. There are five or six scenes that are interconnected but each scene is somehow based on a labour interaction with a material. The person on stage, which is me, is interacting with a cable or interacting with a big piece of cloth. And every scene is very slowly leading to a trance. But each scene is also made of an effect, such as visual, sonic, corporeal effect, which normally would last for maximum thirty seconds (otherwise it is not an effect anymore). But instead of providing effects we are continuously building up to these effects.

    The performance slightly reminds me the famous ballet “The Rite of Spring” (1913) composed by Igor Stravinsky with Vaclav Nizhinsky dancing in it, where the plot was considered as a succession of choreographed episodes instead of the classical storytelling with a clear narrative line.
    Some people view GRIND in a very abstract sense as it is about a play of perception, like a visual arts piece. Because of their dramaturgy and the figure who is going through it, it starts to become narrative and give rise to associative potential. People see a lot of things. There is a struggle the dancer is going through and people associate to murder, torture, ecstasy, violence.  They have something very particular in their memory about being scared. Thus the form is very explicitly abstract while the experience is not. This is what creates a very interesting game. People realize, “This is an abstract work but I am actually having so many memories, so many associations and so many stories.”

    You said once that you are challenged by things you do not understand and you try to create something that provide uncertainty. If we apply these to concepts on GRIND. What is that you do not understand about it? And what uncertainty have you created in there?
    People live through the performance not knowing what it was they were going through. It touches quite dark parts in them, dealing with something relentless and violent. It enters a kind of subconscious place. I work often with a kind of altered state. It varies from show to show: it can be through synaesthesia for example but also say, depression. When you are in an altered state, things are fuzzy. And I think, when I was making GRIND, it was for the first time I started to trust the space of creativity that has something more to do with dreams or nightmares – that fuzzy space that I can access not only when I am dreaming but also through having music in my ears, closing my eyes or maybe when I am tired. With GRIND I started to trust that subliminal place, thinking “If I feel this, if I can access this, maybe it is also a way for me to stage that. And for people to experience that somehow.” Unlike a usual theatrical concept, offering a collective experience, GRIND is not a social place actually, not a collective experience. Everyone is alone in the dark. They cannot hear the person next to them, they cannot see anything. Thus, it becomes utterly personal to them.

    I would say it has a certain connection to AI (artificial intelligence), where you bring in the technology having effects on the human beings, hasn’t it?
    The whole AI-chapter I am working a lot with now. It is something that is coming up in a lot of my work now. It is a reality, like it or not. You have plastic inside of you and your smartphone is already an extension of you, even it is outside of your body.

    Do you still practice Kundalini Yoga?
    Yes, I do it before the show. Usually I do work out but such type of training is too heavy when I have to perform. So, I practice Kundalini Yoga then. It is very repetitive and it is a nice way to get in touch with yourself. I also meditate.

    If I translated your performance into paintings, I would think of Francis Bacon because in your performances the invisible points out the visible and the intangible feelings become material. What would you say about that?
    Yes. The reference to Bacon is maybe about making the material of something internal. Maybe it is an easy link, but the monstrosity is a way of choreographing an internal space, manifesting through the face, through the expression. Dance is so much about not dealing with the head and with the face, because the body is supposed to be expressive through its form and tonus. I am very engaged with making manifest the internal processes and put that context in the space, through the expression. I am kind of interested in what leaks out of the process, during the co-creation with the audience.

    Do you use art as a source of inspiration, going for example to any pinakothek in Berlin?
    I see quite a lot. Visual art is very much present. I am into video work and I like Mark Leckey, who is a British visual artist. There is a video, which he actually made about the club culture “Fiorucci made me Hardcore”. It is a brilliant art film that deals with a kind of archive of the club culture of the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s in Great Britain. It is a beautiful collage. I also like David Lynch. I am very busy with the uncanny and with this idea of what is familiar but not, what is social but twisted. Visual art, music and a lot of film. My work is also very cinematic.  

    What dancers inspire you?
    Above all, clubbing. It is contemporary clubbing. I entered that world when I was twenty eight. Clubbing is interesting for me because it is one of the only proper contemporary rituals we have. It is one of the only places where people engage in the present moment for the sake of present moment and without making sense. It is useless in some way. It is about having fun and escapism but also is a certain and spiritual practice. To engage in something what is actually present, yet immaterial, I found that very spectacular. Clubbing puts people together, they dance for hours and hours. There is something transcendental about it. You use your body, you use the music, you use the light and that dark space in order to have a collective experience that is not material. 

    Do you acquire any inspiration from fashion?
    Fashion is tricky to work with directly. I am busy but it is something I have hard time to translate into my work. Dance has a kind of strange relation to costume and historically speaking, fashion is considered costume there. Of course, fashion is much more than that. I usually down-dress people a lot on stage or I use nudity. Relatability on stage has been very important to me – how ordinary people can relate to what happens on stage.

    If you got a chance to collaborate with an artist, what artist would you choose and how this collaboration would look like?
    To be honest, I would love to have been there with John Cage, Merce Cunningham and Robert Rauschenberg. It must have been a remarkable time to be in dance.

  • The Waldorf Project

    Written by Fashion Tales

    An interesting art project will be taking place at Ksju in Stockholm's slaughterhouse district. The Waldorf Project is an immersive experience on a grand stage in which art is consumed through all of the senses. A realisation by artist Sean Rogg, has created and directed this project which has had a run of installments over several years; Chapter One/MUSKMELON, Chapter Two/COLOUR, and Chapter Three/FUTURO so far, the next deployment is a fully developed exploration of Chapter Four/BARZAKH which will take place in London in 2018.

    The Waldorf Project is one of the world’s most intense and mesmerizing theater experiences, in which the audience consumes the performance with all five senses. In an intimate setting running from May 17th until the 20th, is has been described as a new art form and will be its first exhibition outside of London.

    According to the press release: The full staging of the fourth chapter of The Waldorf Projects that will take place in the UK later this year. E.R.L.s (Experimental Research Labratories) are shorter performances compared to entire chapters, for CHAPTER FOUR/BARZAKH. This gives Rogg the opportunity to explore the core concepts that make up a chapter and trial them on a live crowd for the first time, often making the E.R.L.s more intense. The Waldorf Project was created by Rogg in 2012 and is a holistic theatre experience that seamlessly blends movement design, costume design, spatial design, choreography, music, and gastronomy into one cohesive experience. It represents the bleeding edge of 21stcentury performance and conceptual art. Sean Rogg elaborates, “Every person responsible for each of the creative disciplines that make up The Waldorf Project is at the very forefront of their crafts. We pride ourselves on our meticulous attention to detail, and our guests in Stockholm will have an experience as close to an actual chapter as possible. Since an E.R.L.s precede full chapters and give us an opportunity to trial ideas, they demand more from us as creators.”

    The world’s most coveted news and art media outlets including Associated Press, The Guardian, The Creators Project, Trend Tablet, WGSN and have covered the initiative since CHAPTER ONE / MUSKMELON. “Having lived in Sweden for over four years I’ve experienced the introverted nature of Swedes firsthand. It’s fascinating to me. Much like London, Stockholm is multicultural, yet the mentality of Swedes is typically much more close guarded compared to Brits. In that sense Stockholm makes for an intriguing ‘test market’ for us before we premiere the full chapter in London later this year,” Rogg explains, “There’s of course also the problem of finding spaces that can play host to what we do. Fristaden is a lot smaller space than we usually work with but makes it up with character. It’s in an interesting area of the city that struck a chord with me. It’s going to be an exceptional series of performances.”

    For more information and to purchase tickets for this incredible experience, visit www.ksju.se/thewaldorfproject

  • photography by THOMAS KLEMENTSSON

    model MADELEINE BLOMBERG

     
      
      

    MARTIN BERGSTRÖM X LAPPONIA: THE WORLD OF BARREN LANDSCAPE AND ORGANIC FUTURISM

    Written by Ksenia Rundin

    By bringing his unique artistic vision to the prominent Finnish jewellery brand Lapponia, the Swedish designer Martin Bergström has now been inscribed into the history of Finnish cultural heritage. The Kuu collection, consisting of several unique pieces combined in multiple ways and inspired by Finland’s barren landscape with the bright moon shining over it, is a result of a modern dialogue between the designer’s organic futurism and Lapponia’s incredible heritage. Inspired by Björn Weckström’s earlier design, Martin Bergström creates his own emotional and abstract interpretation of jewellery as both a functional decorative piece and an art work.

    The designer plays with futuristic character of the natural shapes by following the brutal forms of the Finnish landscape, and adds the intelligence of the modern technology by using his own two-dimensional sketches reshaped by 3D Technology. It seems that Martin Bergström with his ingenuity and digital curiosity, has broken the border between the past and future, creating a new story of jewellery design. While looking at the collection, I imagined Väinämöinen [an ancient Finnish Hero – K.R.] from The Kalevala playing the kantele and Princess Leia from Star Wars leading the operation to rescue Han. And it felt as the time was a mere illusion.

    What is the collection inspired by?
    The Kuu collection is partly inspired by Lapponia’s history. I admire a lot what Björn Weckström created during the 1960s and 1970s with his brutal style. Lapponia has probably changed its direction since then but I would like to bring it back to its brutal, organic and abstract aesthetics. I have studied their archive and also met Björn. My endeavor was to find a right approach, therefore I chose the moon concept as a part of the Lapland context with its barren landscape, moon and nature. These are what my starting point was.

    What is the purpose of your collaboration with Lapponia?
    The purpose is to take Lapponia into the contemporary times and to update it in accordance with my interpretation.

    Lapponia has a long tradition of creating, where its sculptural design language is decisive. What do you, “an organic futurism” (translation K. R.), as you described yourself in an interview, have in common with Lapponia through the Kuu collection?
    I have put my soul into this collection, what you as a designer must do. The whole collection is a kind of personal – my soul.

    I have seen small prints/patterns integrated into the metal structure. What are those?
    There is a casting structure on the jewellery what I integrated into the pieces, what was quite a long process. I had made a number of two-dimensional sketches, which were later scanned and processed by a 3D program. One jewellery can contain 10 different structures which I have painted and which later were minimized to the size of 0.5 mm and integrated into the pattern. It took a long time to perform that job but it was incredibly exciting to do that. It took over a year to get everything done.

    Is it your first experience as a jewellery designer?
    I have worked with jewellery a little bit before but this is the first time I do a whole collection. However, there is no difference in whether you do a single jewellery piece or a whole collection.

    Do you see any connection between the jewellery collection and your textile creations?
    Absolutely, my approach is the same in both cases.

    Is it a certain method you apply?
    I try to find a theme and put my soul into it. I tried to clearly see what I wanted to say and to look at it as a beauty of an art piece when adding such details as casting.

    You have mentioned your studies of Lapponia’s archive. Do you have any favourite jewellery?
    There are a few, especially Björn Wickströms 1960s and 1970s works. I also visited his home and saw his fantastic works. Furthermore, my intention was to integrate his works into my interpretation of the collection and what I think is Lapponia’s future direction. When it is not a museum but something alive, it is important to integrate different time periods into it and thereby take care of the heritage. In sixty years my current works will be old. Time passes quickly and when you are old, your works is what you have left as a part of your history. Therefore it is significant to care for your own history.

    You have studied in Germany and I assume that the Bauhaus school has somehow left an impact on you. Can we see any traces of that in this jewellery collection?
    Brutalism as such is a part of my interest and I could see it in the Finnish style and Finland. I also live in Finland half-time, as I live together with a Finn and I love Finland with its barren landscape and brutal character. These are things I feel I want to build my idea on. Thus, it is not that much about Bauhaus as such but the Brutalism that I am inspired by.

    When it concerns your fashion design, who is your customer?
    I work with different customers. Now I have now had my collection in the USA under soon two years. Bea Åkerlund takes care of my thing there. Then it is pretty much about me creating something less wearable and more as an art piece, like Lapponia, so you could have it on the wall. I see a tendency of people buying things and hang them on the wall instead of wearing when you can still choose both. The point is that you can have it hanging on the wall as an art piece.  I think also that the customer I have today is the one who does not really concentrate on trends as such but buys something she/he likes.

    Could you please say a few words on the sustainability aspect in the collection?
    The silver used for the collection is silver that been recycled to the best possible extent, circa 75-80 percent. You cannot recycle 100 percent of silver. The gold used in the production is, however, 100 percent recycled. Thus, the sustainability aspect is significant there. Additionally, all the jewellery is produced at the factory in Helsinki. There is no production stage which is left out to someone else. Furthermore, jewellery produces always according to the sales prognoses, not more than is expected to be sold in order to prevent any possible waste. The rest is performed by order. There is also a safety aspect integrated into the production, where only professional jewellers work with it.

    Do you and Lapponia have any plans to continue the collaboration?
    Yes, sure! We have plans to continue our collaboration with jewellery.

    If you, as a costume designer, would get a free hand, what film would you like to design costumes for, from any time period?
    It is depends on what film and who are the actors. Nevertheless, it would be fantastic to work with Fellini [Federico Fellini (1920-1993), Italian film director and screenwriter – K.R.] or Bergman [Ingmar Bergman (1918-2007), Swedish film director, writer and producer]. Right now I do not have anyone in particular in my mind. I love old films, like L’Amore by Fellini. Sometimes you are born in wrong time. If I were born earlier, it would be fun to work with those two.

    In some interview I have read that you also worked with haute couture. Could you name any fashion houses you worked with?
    I have worked with patterns for one of those big haute couture fashion houses. When you have a contract with such a fashion house, you are bound by a confidentiality clause, what makes it impossible for me to give any names. I make scarves for them and I learn a lot there. You could actually recognise my ‘hand’ in those shawls.

    Do you have a free hand while designing for the fashion house?
    No, I receive a brief I have to follow. I love different types of commissions and this is one of many I have.

    Your fashion city?
    Helsinki.

    On your webpage is stated that you work with ‘forgotten handicraft techniques to bring [your] composition alive’. Do you feel that you in a certain way work against artificial intelligence with its 3D technology in order to keep the old techniques alive?
    I worked a lot with digital print, I work a lot with future technology but you always have to be aware of what you are doing concerning your own heritage. I love haute couture pieces but I also love the idea of doing those in a modern way. If you could work in 3D and perform an haute couture piece through a digital process by using for example 80 percent less water. Thus, I am working a lot with trying to find modern solutions to work with old handicraft techniques. I am a lecturer at Beckmans College of Design in pattern and there I work a lot with that vision.

    What is the process around making the theatre costumes?
    When I am working with theatre, I read the script first. However, I mostly work with dance and then it is the feeling in a dance which you work on together with the choreographer. My role there is more about fashion.

    Could you say a couple of words of any of your future projects?
    I work on two own projects now. Then there is an exhibition I will do in Moscow and I will tell about it when I know more about it and it becomes more official. I am also working on my next collection.

    What is the theme of the collection?
    I am working with memories, as my dog has passed away and I also have got a new puppy. It is a lot about life and death. In the beginning it was more about grief process, where I used to cry a lot. Now it takes a form and I know what I am doing. In other words, I am trying to give a structure to my feelings. My previous collection was about poisonous plants and flowers and the current collection turned to be about a grief process dedicated to the memories of a dead dog. The collection might probably be titled with ‘Memories of a Dead Dog’ or something like that. It sounds quite beautiful actually.

    Are you still collaborating with Nathalia Edenmont?
    No, not today. I used to make her flower dresses but we are not working together now. Projects come and go. However, I have worked a lot with female artists, such as Julia Hetta, concerning scenography and shooting, Martina Hoogland. There are always strong women, what is really fun.

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