• Viviane Sassen

    Written by Blenda Setterwa...

    While waiting for Viviane Sassen in the exhibition room at the Fotografiska Museet (Museum of Photography), in Stockholm, I have time for a private moment with the almost finished UMBRA exhibition. As much as I’ve read up on Viviane Sassen’s photography, something comes together in the dimly lit room, like a wordless message is being whispered from the walls. They trigger a sense of fusion and synecdoche in me, where all my senses become equally receptive. The sort of images that linger when you close your eyes and speak to a place in your mind where they might be mistaken for personal memories in the future.
    UMBRA is full of contrasts and contradictions. A galanty show, color-popping sunlight, smoke, mirrors and frozen intimacy, capturing the space between the internal and external in us. Shadows of all shapes and sizes follow us like ghosts through the images. Pitch black and magnetic, sharply cut and graphic or thinly-spread like smoke and veils, all with a sense of gravity, mysticism and presence seen through Sassen’s camera lens.
    As we sit down for the interview, Viviane Sassen - like her body of work - signals an alliance between contradicting forces. Genuine openness and curiosity paired with strong integrity and a piercing gaze.

    V: I sometimes refer to myself back when I was younger as a shy exhibitionist. I think that in a lot of my work, there are paradoxes. Darkness and light, bold and subtle… there are all these contrasts. I feel drawn to both sides at the same time. Referring to myself as a shy exhibitionist sums it up. You want to show, you want to shine but at the same time you’re too shy to truly show your self. And I often feel drawn towards images that don’t show faces because I feel like they leave much more to the imagination. I like an image to not be… conclusive. To have an open end.

    B: Something that lingers…

    V: Yes. It makes you think about how you should perceive the image and what the story behind it is. In our subconscious we all have these universal ideas of what things are, how to register and categorize them, to be able to understand the outside world. And how that reflects back on our self. That’s constant, measuring between the self and the other.

    B: What is your fascination with shadows?

    V: I think the shadow stands for the unknown and I want to peek into the unknown. But it’s not about finding answers, it’s the curiosity itself. Maybe it is the fascination with the unknown. With darkness and with death, ultimately. And a fear of death that I have always had. My father was a doctor and worked in Africa. Later when we moved back to Holland, he had his practice in our house. There was always sickness and death nearby, it had something mysterious about it for me. And later on my father passed away, he ended his own life which was very tragic and something I can’t really understand. I think I still wonder what it’s like on the other side.

    B: And the shadow is a portal?

    V: A portal, yes. Without any answers.

    B: Can you tell me how you made these glass photographies in the desert? They look Photoshopped, but they’re not?

    V: No their not. It’s actually pieces of coloured prospects and a mirror. At least in the smaller once I used a mirror. And it was by accident that this happened because I set myself a goal to make a photographic version of the black square of Malevich. I had these really square things in mind and using the landscape. Almost like Rothko you know? All those references are there, but then I also brought a mirror, but I didn’t know what to do with it. At one point we were just resting a bit, drinking some water because we were in the desert in Namibia. When we put the mirror in the sand to free our hands, I saw the reflection of the sky. That was really beautiful! So we started experimenting with making shadows on top of the mirror. That is basically what you see. For instance that arrow here in the very corner, just a very thin line in the middle. That’s the mirror itself, seen from above. That dark piece on the right is the shadow of the mirror and the light piece is the reflexion of the sun in the mirror. They became very graphic, but I Like the human element in them, that you still see the shadows of the hand.

    B: How and when did you know you wanted to express yourself through photography?

    V: I think it was clear to me from a very young age that I wanted to do something creative, because I just couldn’t stop dreaming and drawing. That’s basically all I did. After high school it was pretty obvious that I would go to art school, but at the time I didn’t really know what I wanted to do or become. Or study. I thought maybe graphic design, maybe fashion design. I think the idea of becoming an artist was one step too far for me at the time, It was to vague and I needed something with more structure. So I decided to study fashion design, witch I did for two years. But I quite quickly realized that making clothes was not my passion, I wasn’t really interested in clothes that much. I’ve always had this kind of love/hate relationship with fashion. Like, not really interested but at the same time fashion photography always gave me a great platform to express myself, communicate and experiment with photography.

    B: You started out as a model, that was your first encounter with the fashion industry. Do you think that affects your artistic expression in any way, that you have a double view?

    V: Yeah, I think it had an influence on me back then. Just the fact that I worked with other creative people and could see how they set up a photograph, or the decisions they made. But I was still doing fashion design at that time and I realised that I wanted to be in control of the image. I also think that back then, it was a way of taking back the control of my own body. My own image and femininity. I worked with a lot of male photographers, they do have this “male gaze”. I felt as if many male photographers had these expectations of what a woman should look like, be like of behave like. I felt restricted by that. So It felt liberating to pick up the camera myself and make images of myself. Self portraits, nudes… exploring my own sexuality in a way, through images of friends and of myself.

    B: A way of reclaiming?

    V: Reclaiming, exactly. That’s exactly the right word.

    B: You said that when you were younger you were mostly dreaming and drawing. I think that a lot of your pictures are like images you might see in your night-dreams. The moments you remember in flashbacks later on during the day.

    V: Yes, I hear that a lot.

    B: They go in through the subconscious sort of. When do you first see your images? Do you recreate pictures from memory?

    V: It’s funny that you mention this. A lot of my images are created after I’ve had a dream at night and I wake up with just an idea or an image in my head that popped up. I sometimes make a drawing of it and have it as a lead to stage one of my pictures.
    Of Course, the outcome will be different than how I saw it in my dream. Which is interesting because your mind is endless, you can think and invent anything, but with photography you still have to deal with reality. You need reality and things in order to make photographs. That paradox itself is interesting. In the process of making an image, new unexpected things happen that you would never have thought of beforehand. That makes it very exciting, to be surprised. It’s a way of trickyng the accident. Creating the conditions to allow accidents to happen.

    B: Does that have to do with becoming more comfortable?

    V: Yes, and more experienced. The great thing is that if you have all these years of experience, you gain the confidence to trust your own instincts and gut feeling. Which is great because then you gain this flow. You don’t worry anymore. Compare it to a musician who’s making music and is just in the moment, forgetting everything around. It’s tunnel vision, but it’s great.

    B: Your pictures are so very sculptural. Have you ever been curious to try some other art form? Like sculpture? Or film?

    V: I have been drawing for a long time, on the side. I don’t think I’m a very good drawer, but there are some little drawings over there. Then film, I’ve tried some stuff but I think it’s so complicated with my view of the world. It’s difficult to get the same quality. You have sound, time and narrative. That easily irritates me. If a photographer has too much narrative it becomes too literal. The way I compose my images is very sculptural. An image works in a specific moment in time and space, if it moves it changes and might lose it’s strength, or give too much information and become… prosaic or something.

    B: You started as a photographer before Photoshop and have been along for the entire transition from analog to digital. What do you think has changed? In your way of working and in the artform in a broader sense?

    V: It’s hard to imagine going back to how it was. I mean, a lot changed. I think I was very lucky to experience the whole turn-around. It was just this little tiny moment in time. When I was studying it was still all analogue so I was able to learn all those techniques, the tactility of it, the analogue process. Nowadays it’s more difficult to feel connected to the medium.

    B: For the spectator or the photographer?

    V: Both. I think that’s why young people go back to shooting analogue. Which for me doesn’t make much sense, I have to say. I mean, I understand it from the point of view of wanting to feel this connection with the medium in a stronger and more tactile way. I could go back to shooting more analogue, but I don’t feel the need. I think that the quality of the digital process and printing has become so good. In our collective conscience we have gotten used to the digital image. It took me a while, but now I don’t mind it any more. A lot of people think that analogue is up there, then there’s nothing, and then comes digital. The funny thing is that a lot of museums nowadays prefer to have good digital prints instead of analogue because they last longer. There are famous photographers, like Cindy Sherman who need to reprint all of their work from the 80’s because everything vanishes. The colours fade.

    B: You went to art school for quite a long time.

    V: Yes..

    B: What was good about getting an extensive education in art?

    V: I think time. Time itself. You don’t grow up overnight. You need to experience life.
    I think that’s one of the problems and challenges that young people face nowadays, that it’s all so instant, so immediate, so fast. Because of social media, people have the feeling that they miss out on things or they need to be… you know…

    B: Have something to show for themselves?

    V: Yes! It’s a big pressure. We didn’t have all that information. I think maybe photography itself benefited from the overflow of images, because there are a lot of photographers out there and they all educate each other just by looking at eachothers images, but It’s also much more difficult for them to find their own voice. I mean, I studied fashion for two years, then photography for four years, then one year fine arts. And only then it started.

    B: A protected time?

    V: Yes, of experimentation. I can’t remember ever thinking about the future. We founded our own little magazine just as a way to get our work out into the world, we didn’t have anything else! Sometimes some shop in Amsterdam would sell fanzines like Purple Prose, Purple Fiction, Purple Fashion, Self Service, ID… I’d just send them colour copies of my prints and hope they’d want to work with me. And that happened, I just got a phone call, there was no email even!
    I recently had this discussion with a young guy where I asked him “What would be your dream to make?” and he said, “Well, to make a little magazine with my friends.” And I thought, wow, for us it was completely the other way around! We made these little magazines to be able to get our work out as much as we could. They have the whole world as their platform, but want to make it more exclusive and intimate.

    B: That sound so very nice, that you didn’t ever think about the future…

    V: Yes, we were drinking coffee with friends for hours and hours and we didn’t think about the future. For years, we just hung out.
    I think now, there’s much more pressure.

    B: If you were to give advice, to for instance yourself back when you started, what would that be?

    V: I think you have to be lucky in the sense that you have the time and space to develop as a person or artist.You need to have the creativity, but also the drive to make work. I see a lot of people who make some work every now and then but it doesn’t really come off the ground, they don’t have this urge to create. I think I have this inner drive, this passion to really make things and keep on making things and be curious. That helps.
    We started with two classes, about 60 people. Then, we only graduated with 15-20 people and of the 15-20 people, maybe 4 or 5 are still working as a photographer. And from those 4 - 5 people there are not that many who have regular exhibitions.
    But that isn’t very encouraging, maybe you shouldn’t write about that, ha ha!
    Something that is more of an advice is that there are so many opinions, it’s not possible to make work that is appreciated by everybody. When I was doing my masters in fine arts we had artists and critics every week on studio visits. One would say one thing, and you’d think “Yeah ok he’s completely right”. The next day, someone else would come in and say the complete opposite. So in the end it doesn’t really matter, you have to make your own choices. Don’t be to concerned about being liked.
    I’ve experienced periods in my life where I felt unable to make new work. I was too stuck in my head. But at some point I just thought, “Know what? It’s better that I go out there and take really bad pictures than not taking pictures at all.” I just picked up my camera and started photographing again. And little by little, step by step, you get something that you think is good, or could be different and have a new experience. There’s this saying in Holland, “ein hund die loopt find boten”. It means “a dog that walks find bones.” You see?

    B: What do you think art could or should be? Getting that platform and reach, does it come with any obligations?

    V: That’s a very difficult question. I’m not sure I’ll be able to answer that one. It’s a very important and profound question. On a very personal level it gives me reasons to live, making art is a way to sustain myself. Art is like a mirror, reflecting yourself and the outside world. In that sense it’s philosophical, not religious but spiritual. That’s why sometimes, if art is too theorised, too conceptual or too high brow, I tend to get bored.
    I like to be able to connect on an emotional level. Solely on an intellectual level I loose interest.

    B: What do you do if you feel uninspired?

    V: The best trick is to travel. When you travel you see everything with new eyes. You’re much more aware, sharper eyes, ears… It’s like, if you have a photograph on your wall that you like, at some point you don’t really notice it anymore. It’s a pity because it’s there for a purpose, but at some point, as much as you love it you get used to it.

    B; Home-blindness…

    V: Yes.

    B: Do you have favourite places to shoot where you like to return?

    V: In general, I love it where the sun is shining. I love the sunlight, the brightness. And the shade. So I think that’s what’s most important for me, In a very literal sense.

    B: What are you working on right now?

    V: I’ve just finished a new body of work that is all about femininity. Womanhood and female strength. It’s about fertility and the female power to be able produce, feed and nourish. It’s about mushrooms, things growing… in a very organic way. And I’ve started drawing on pictures again, making collages. This (UMBRA) was kind of soul searching for me. Revisiting the death of my father. This whole series about shadows. Then I felt completely open, and now there’s space for other adventures and to be really playful and intuitive again.

    B: That picture, that is your son and your shadow? What does it mean to you?

    V: That picture is very important to me. It symbolises the fact that we as parents always put a shadow on our own children. In a good or a bad way, somehow we’re always influenced by our parents, even if they’re absent, it’s in our DNA. And I also like that this picture is a view into the future, to the moment when he will have long legs like that.

    B: It kind of relates to what you’re doing now, with parenthood?

    V: Yes! But what I do now is a lot more frivolous and bold.

    B: When and where can we see it?

    V: I did an exhibition at Stevenson gallery in Johannesburg, and there’s one coming up in Tokyo in October and there will be a book made by the japanese gallery. It’s called “Of mud and Lotus”.

    B: You’re very good with titles and words, I think.

    V: Thank you!

    B: I’m curious about the cloud-picture, can you tell me how it happened?

    V: This was in suriname, at a really weird empty swimming pool. I saw this cumulus cloud coming up, and I tried to connect the line of the cloud with the line of the roof. And somehow, for me it relates to the idea of rebuses. There are certain messages in these pictures, you can’t really grasp what their meaning is but they have something that they want to tell you. Like getting messages from somewhere.

    B: You see them all like rebuses?

    V: Yes. Or like words. They form sentences or poems or stories. I’ve always been very interested in the fact that you can take a picture out of one context and put in in a different one, and it will mean something else. You can form different sentences with images. Taking away and adding. Like in a rebus.

  • Tictail - #NOTFACELESS - The Future of Consumerism

    Written by Meghan Scott

    If you haven’t been immersed in fashion’s latest infatuation, it’s time to hop on board. Thoughout my long time in the fashion industry, I honestly have never really been into consuming the latest must haves that are thrown at us from every which way, especially these days though all the media platforms, it seems as if there is no escape. My personal style summed up is essentially contemporary and feminine with elements of a genderless toddler. I’m not stuck to one single brand, shy away from fast fashion and have a penchant for cool new designers and quality is very important to me. I was recently introduced to the Swedish online marketplace that focuses on new designers and retailers from 140 countries worldwide, Tictail. There is not only a vast selection of clothing and accessories,Tictail features homeware and art. With the success of Etsy as an online marketplace for independent sellers, Tictail has taken this concept to the next level, with more focus on slow fashion and a personal connection with its featured sellers and users. Placed on a clean graphic user interface similar to that of Instagram, it’s another user-friendly go to social media app that allows one to interact in similar ways of the aforementioned, discovering unique items of desire and sharing them with “the world”. You can even make your own stores and browse through others user's stores. I usually tend to shy away from more “internet stuff” that will inevitably distract me, but this one is a must.

    This past Saturday, I had the chance to meet some of the creatives and designers behind this spectacular innovative company. A small table of 25 in a cozy room at the historical Hotel Skeppsholmen in Stockholm, maybe haunted, fabulous nonetheless. Hosted by the Head of Global Communications, the lovely Briana Feigon, who is based in New York, Susanne Holsäter, who is the PR & Events Manager for Sweden and Europe and one of the founders, Carl Waldkrantz. It was a mix of Swedish press, bloggers, featured Swedish designers; including Alina Bendekova of Arèthe. And Rami Hanna, the Stockholm based photographer who shot the #notfaceless campaign. We started out sipping Champaigne in the quaint garden before entering and indulging on canapes and hearing a little more about Tictail from Waldekranz himself about the background of the company; he was raised in Sweden by a single mom who was an artist, depending on income solely from the sales of her art, he lived a kind of feast or famine lifestyle, per say. When you’re younger and all of your peers are decked out in the latest gear adorned with big logos from commercial brands, you can feel deprived or out of place, in a way. This is part of the reason for activating Tictail, today when Waldenkrantz looks through his closet, he sees a selection of non-mainstream designers, with knowledge of the origin of each piece. A social standpoint is addressed, the designer is has recognition. The evening was ended with a nice performance by Crying Day Care Choir playing a few of their favourite songs, including the newly released Sad Season.

    I had the chance to sit down and have a chat in person with Feigon before she hopped on a plane back to New York. She recounted the nostalgic ritual she and her mother have been having for years, as they live bi-coastal, mom in San Francisco, where she was raised. When the two finally unite in either city, they share their new fashion finds with one another, in either city. They share their new fashion finds with one another, enthusiastically sharing the process of acquiring each piece. She mused about her mother’s passion for clothing, the way she treats every piece like a piece of art; folding and hanging each item appropriately, merchandising them in her wardrobe, with pure respect for each garment. This mother daughter ritual they share, furthered the inspiration behind Tictail’s #notfaceless operation - to not use the commercial term campaign - and motivates Feigon to have a real sense of loyalty to her job. She recalls the meeting in which the #notfaceless term was coined at Tictail, they were in the conference room in NY planning a larger “campaign”, thinking about the bold brands, the contrast between slow and fast fashion, how each piece and designer have a story to tell. They kept speaking about the actual faces of the designers, and how most consumers never know, think or care about who is behind the curtain. The words ‘not faceless’, kept coming up amongst everybody and then lo and behold #notfaceless was born. The lookbook, shot by Stockholm’s Rami Hanna, using exclusively Mikas models exhibits bold captivating imagery with looks using 35 designers from 14 different countries, giving the viewer the sense of quality and individuality behind the concept. Artist Joe Cruz was commissioned to create special artwork over some of the imagery for the ‘campaign’ t-shirt and mural at the Tictail store on 90 Orchard St., in New York City.

    We begin to discuss the dark side of the fashion industry; Feigon informs me of the devastating fact that the industry is the second largest producer of pollution in the world, second to oil. She also dove into some very interesting points that we should all be aware of; comparing small designers to big fast fashion moguls. One single fast fashion house, such as Zara has 2200 stores in 90 countries, they make 11,000 unique products a year, add in sizing, and you’re looking at about 50 million garments a year, that is just ONE brand. On average, consumers only wear each individual piece around seven times. This is a MASSIVE waste that needs to be addressed immediately. Titcail has about 10k brands in 140 countries, this averages about four million products, minus the ones that are made-to-order. The discussion continues, pointing out how shoppers don’t have the tools or patience to shop this way anymore, they want a one stop shop. We are constantly bombarded with visuals, positioning products into our subconscious, perpetuating this need to fill the void. Slow fashion should be something everybody should be looking into, having the patience to wait for that special something to unwrap or treat like a piece of art, making clothing a special treat, like the mother-daughter bonding sessions of Friegon and her mother. If you take care of your things and try hard not to feed into the instant gratification you feel when making impulsive choices of latest trends and fads, and make smart purchases, life will become more satisfying and complete.

    Perfect for the #notfaceless ideology on the Tictail platform, Feigon is a kindred spirit with a true passion for humanity, she wants to learn about everybody from bartenders, baristas, taxi drivers, she desires to bring the kindness and realness out of people. And ultimately she wants to support new and young designers, educate people on slow fashion and change buyer behaviour as a whole and I couldn’t agree more with her. If you aren’t already a regular on the Tictail, app, sign up! Here are a few designers from the look book to follow, to get you started:

    https://tictail.com/cornaert

    https://tictail.com/moonkidjewellerydesign

    https://tictail.com/thebeessneeze

    https://tictail.com/arethe

    https://tictail.com/jennieellen

    https://tictail.com/doloreshaze

  • photography by CARYS HUWS

    Solange’s Performance Piece at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum

    Written by Yasmine by Fashion Tales

    With the iconic interior of Frank Lloyd Wright at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York, Solange detracted and confidently filled the space with her own contemporary performance piece, An Ode To. An art installation of movement and expression where she used herself and the attendees as the medium on themes from her recent album, A Seat at the Table, a music script of personal and universal inquiries.

    As a part of Red Bull Music Academy Festival in New York this late spring, she had one of the most respected art institutions to show An Ode To, a creative statement that will encouraging further representation in the art world for musicians, especially black female musicians. Popularly, merging the pop-culture with the contemporary art scene.

    The limited number of guests, dressed in all-white looks, as per requested by the artist, presumably to have them be a part of the piece in the stark white spiraling venue. The documentation we see becomes a unity and strengthens the visual documentation of Solange’s performance, in the first gaze you cannot distinguish between the dancer and observer which I conclude is part of the realization. The audience were treated to a piece which comprehended modern dance choreography to a live set ensemble playing unrivaled funk, soul and R&B.

    Performance art has for decades inspired and captured the eyes of art enthusiasts, Meredith Monk and Marina Abramović being two of the most recognizable. Yet, it is in modern times, artists have really merged with the contemporary music scene, catching the eye of the mainstream. Marina Abramovic and Antony Hegarty, and The Velvet Underground and Andy Warhols famed 1967 performance, Exploding Plastic Inevidable, for example. Yoko Ono and Lady Gaga are two very prominent proclaimed performance artists. For these artists who have paved the way, performance art has been able to show the astonishing quality it has, a role that has had the chance to enter the mainstream.

    In a timeline where we have been captured and amazed with performance artist Vanessa Beecroft installations, she has received the light beyond the art world network once her work united with the music sphere and fashion collection Yeezy season 1-3 at New York Fashion Week together with Kanye West. The worlds of art have always collided, but nowadays, with greater access to information and a daily influx of visual and audio impressions, the mainstream can embrace the unconventional more and more. Beecroft’s previous installations using the human bodies, creating her army have become an inspiration, not only for Kanye West and Solange, but other music and fashion designers. Not to mention, the work of Meredith Monk, the first to use the rotunda for a performance, a tradition that has been ongoing since the late 60’s.

    An Ode To have been critical acclaimed for its creativity and pureness, unfortunately we can simply witness it through photographs and film. Nevertheless, that is one of the glories of performance art; it lives in the present of the artwork itself and is infrequently at its best when it gets reproduced through documentation such as photographs and video. Peggy Phelan, a scholar in performance studies, emphasizes that performance can’t be saved, recorded or documented; once it does so, it becomes something other than performance art. (1993,146) An Ode To, had a no-cellphone policy, which I conclude made the guests alive to fully engage in the experience from start to finish to live in the moment and embrace the art piece.

    Being able to enter the high art institutions such as Guggenheim, it’s a movement that has been developing over decades. And now recently, the MoMA (The Museum of Modern Art in New York City) has initiated various events the past years inviting more than 750 artists, including pop artists Solange, Jamie XX, and Grimes. And with their Party in the Garden, held in the MoMA’s Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden, an annual event that takes place in the beginning of June, included musicians James Blake and Kaytranada. This merge gives performers and contemporary artists a bigger arena and show their work to a larger audience.

    It is apparent that more musicians are seeking diverse forms of performance that captures a broader audience; movement, design, installations et al.

    Solange performance piece has definitely been given a seat at the table.

    Source Peggy Phelan statement:
    Peggy Phelan, Unmarked: The Politics of Performance, Psychology Press, 1993

    photography by KRISANNE JOHNSON
    photography by STACY KRANITZ

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