• photography by MONA BENSAFIDDINE

    An Interview with NHORM

    Written by Felicia Eriksson

    Mathilda Nilsson and Hanna Rudebeck are the brains behind the hot new Swedish fashion label Nhorm that is showing their collection for the first time during SS17 Stockholm Fashion Week this week.
    Odalisque had the opportunity to visit their studio while the duo was preparing for FW.

    Felicia: Tell us about Nhorm.

    Mathilda: Nhorm started back in 2011 when we studied Fashion and Textile design together at the University of Borås in Sweden. When the year was coming to an end and Hanna was moving back to Malmö and I was going back to Stockholm, we both realized that we still wanted to have some kind of connection.

    Hanna: We also helped each other with applications for different schools and we noticed that we worked very well together. So it was kind of a breakup and a new start combined.

    M. Then we studied in different cities, Hanna in Copenhagen and myself at Konstfack in Stockholm, so we have worked apart until a year ago when we moved into this studio.

    H. When we finished school we mentally decided to go 100% for this. We have focused a lot on the producing and selling aspects in the last six months, which is something new for us.

    M. Before we handle the selling in a pretty idiotic way because we sold out our entire archive (laughs), that’s how we have funded all the new project.

    F. How do you cooperate in the design process?

    M. When you’re a duo, people get obsessed over who does what and who does that. My friends
    were here last weekend and wondered what I had designed, and that’s not really the way things work.

    H. However, the administrative work has increased and we have divided it between us.

    M. In that way you can pretend that your company is larger than it really is and call yourself the financial manager and so on [laughs].

    H. It's mostly Mathilda who makes the prints.

    M. And you do more of the draping.

    H. It happens inevitably when you work this tight with someone. You end up not knowing where the ideas came from, it’s constantly a mix.

    F. The name Nhorm, what does it mean?

    H. In fact, it's just our initials thrown around. It’s Nilsson, Hanna and the O is for ”och”, the Swedish word for “and”, just to connect it and then Rudebeck, Mathilda.

    F. Do you have any constant source of inspiration?

    M. The way we work with inspiration is constant. It’s a disrespectful mixture of different references.

    H. The whole process is very visual. We pick elements from existing garments and we always work with several different methods. In our last collection we worked with the concept of panels so it was like a red thread and then we applied it to the garments. One thing that always have been a kind of theme is the idea of function and decoration.

    M. It’s always these opposites. It’s very gratifying to say that right now we’re inspired by this but also this and they automatically become opposites. But then, you’re starting to find similarities between them and it’s quite fun because you don’t have to choose one side of them.

    H. One thing that inspires us a lot in the beginning of the process is different materials and colors. Like the combination of two materials, or colors.

    F. Do you feel that Nhorm is filling some kind of void in the existing fashion industry?

    M. To get the opportunity to show at fashion week prove to us that we can do this. So I think that our work definitely have filled a blank space.

    H. In Sweden absolutely however, internationally I think we’re a part of a bigger scene.

    F. Your previous collection was shown at Amaze (an experimental arena for Swedish fashion, editors note) together with a few other selected designers. This time you will have your own show?

    M. Yes, this time it's just us. To show at Amaze has of course been fantastic and we have learned so much, but now we are solo and that’s just super exciting.

    H. It’s gonna be a completely different audience which we are ready for. This is the ultimate test, everything will be under the microscope. You can see right away if something is good or bad.

    F. Last time at Amaze you decided to show the collection as a short movie. Will you play with the format of the presentation this time as well or will it be difficult with the classical format of a catwalk?

    H. Yeah, we have dropped that thought now but we’ve had a lot of ideas about how to continue on the same path with the different angles and the controlled gaze. Instead we will use these thoughts in all the material created around the collection.

    F. Berns may also be a very limited place to show?

    H. Yes, but at the same time it feels great, Berns is like the center and the heart of fashion week.

    M. We were honestly quite afraid in the beginning, but now it feels great.

    H. I’m really looking forward to the day of the show. We take care of the seating and guest list and so on. We have a bunch of friends who will help us with that so I think it’s gonna be a really good atmosphere there. We can go into that room and make it ours. Its gonna be like a huge Nhorm party [laughs].

    F. Tell us about the new collection!

    H. It’s called TRIBUTE and its a continuation of the previous collection 'themewise'.
    We’ve beeninspired by female RnB artists and the late 90s. There’s a lot of very strange and very glittery tops and baggy jeans. So we’ve been inspired by that whole silhouette and the materials.

    M. You know that TLC video when they wearing those silk pyjamas? There’s a lot of contrasts in that world that speaks to us. The collection is a remix of a remix. There’s these yummy and colorful colors. Pink and bright yellow. And that Lil’ Kim picture hanging over there at our inspiration board. She has this very short skirt and a top on the red carpet. It’s a little weird and disrespectful.

    H. I really do hate this word but, its very much a game, they have fun with it. TRIBUTE is not a anxious collection. It’s very direct and very visual.

    M. And also very carefree, which is pretty much who we are.

  • edited by Meghan Scott

    Stadsmissionens REMAKE - Sustainable and Conscious Fashion.

    Written by Fashion Tales

    Edited by Meghan Scott

    Every person living in Stockholm is familiar with Stockholms Stadmission, a chain of stores that sells second hand clothing at very reasonable prices. REMAKE, Stadmissions new label revives, deconstructs, reconstructs and then sells recycled clothing by incorporating new shapes and designs. REMAKE is a project that will not only benefit the environment but also the employees at REMAKE who are from Stadsmissionen’s own community. 

    Maria Lagerman, operations manager, tells us that, “The idea came from the fact that the second-hand industry always has a certain flow of garments and materials that could not be resold. Since some of us had good fashion design skills, we began this project”.

    Stockholm Stadsmission doesn’t only work with recycled clothes, it is a distinguished and respected non-profit organisation that was established in 1853.  The mission was and still is to make Stockholm a more humane city for all. The organization is there for people without a home or are victims of abuse, children, young and the elderly in need. For the young adults, they arrange youth activities, summer camps, youth clinics and counselling among other services. In addition, Stadmission helps underpriviledged people acquire basic needs such as food, clean clothes, and housing. Employment opportunities are given through organising job training and internships.

    Yasmine had the opportunity to sit down with Maria Lagerman and discuss REMAKE.

    Yasmine:
    Maria, tell me more about the background of REMAKE?

    Maria:
    The ideology behind REMAKE is progressive in Sweden, producing sustainable products with recycled materials. REMAKE has now evolved it’s mission to focus primarily on excess garments and materials such as Denim and shirts. They serve as the foundation to our concept.

    Long-term thinking and sustainability are a high goal for us. Sustainable thinking is used in choosing of materials as well as who works on the production.

    Our stores are run as social enterprises which create job opportunities for through job training and internships, helping people grow. The profits from sales go to the Stadsmission’s efforts to work with labor integration.

    Yasmine:
    Who are the people behind the clothes?

    Maria:
    The designs and our collections are produced by our in-house design professionals.  However, at REMAKE we work together as a team to reach our full potential as individuals as well as being a part of our mission to reach out to more people that appreciate sustainable fashion. Essentially all of our employees input ideas.  Our employees want to share their experiences and be a part of a more sustainable society. We believe that everyone can be a part of our production at REMAKE. We have no special requirements, but make sure we have methods that allow for as many people as possible to work with us. Social responsibility with sustainability are the keywords for Stadsmission, As a customer or partner, you become aware that things may take a little longer than expected. Here we create a good working environment providing everyone with meaningful tasks. Read more in our Sustainability Guide or read more about our sustainability efforts in the Annual Report 2015.

    Yasmine:
    What's REMAKE’s social morality? Are there principles that everyone who works with REMAKE needs to follow?

    Maria:
    If a group works with us then they should also stand behind REMAKE's and Stockholm City Mission values. In regard to production, all who work with us must work within the parameters of our sustainability guide. http://www.stadsmissionen.se/Secondhand/Remake 

    The project has given us the chance to contribute to a more sustainable way of living. By buying second-hand, you save a lot fabrics and clothes from just going to waste, and is instead put to good use and being recycled. Used garments contains less chemicals than new because they’ve already been washed many times. The bags that you can buy in the store are compostable bags that decompose within 18 months as part of REMAKE's concept based on sustainability and durability.

    We step in where the community resources and efforts are not sufficient in adapting its business based on the needs of the people in Stockholm - both short and long-term. The point is - it is possible to change the lives of all who are in need or might have fallen off. 

    Our most important task is to help people build confidence in their own abilities and regain power over their lives.’

    Yasmine:
    How would you explain what this project does for society?

    Maria:
    We believe that materials and people are worth much more than one chance. We want our work to focus on social responsibility by supporting the people and we want to contribute to influencing the fashion industry to focus on environmental and social sustainability. We are also thinking differently about about fashion, we aren’t using labels for gender and size, our garment are ‘suitable size’, you will find something that fits you and wear it how you like. Our style is long-term, we try and eliminate fads, trends and seasons.

    Yasmine:
    What do you think society’s responsibility is in embracing similar projects?

    Maria:
    Society needs to promote similar projects by setting up clear guidelines for producing sustainable fashion and design. Enforce policies and providing better working conditions and convert existing businesses who do not comply, both domestically and globally. The community could also start a larger dialogue about the capabilities found in individuals who may have difficulty succeeding in the current work force.

    Yasmine:
    What do you wish that we as a society could do better?

    Maria:
    That we would make more conscious decisions in our garment consumption and how we take care of our clothes with both people and the environment in mind.

    Yasmine:
    Do you hope other brands and social projects will take similar initiatives as you have with REMAKE?

    Maria:
    Absolutely! We need more people who want to work with design while simultaneously prioritising social responsibility, and we are happy to share our experiences and how we work.

    Yasmine:
    What are your future dreams and plans for this project?

    Maria:
    We want to continue working with our business model and continue creating quality garment designs and methods and continue creating quality lasting garments. We imagine the quality and style will ensure that the garment survives a lifetime, starting in your closet, then to another’s maintaining it’s original form, or even be constructed in to something new. Most importantly we want to continue to capture the skills and abilities of all who work with us, and to be a part of contributing to each individual reaching positive goals.

     
  • photography by SANDRA MYHRBERG / The New Agency
    stylist JOSEFINE ENGLUND
    hair & make up PARI DAMANI / HALL&LUNDBERG
    model NELLY A / Elite Stockholm
    sunglasses IC!BERLIN “Jazz M”
    jacket, LEVI'S
    top LO SPECCHIO DI ALICE
    collants EMILLIO CAVALLINI

    A Celebration of Berlin's Beauty

    Written by Giovanna Pisacane by Arda Sarper

    Ic! berlin, the initialism of “I see Berlin”, started in 1996 by co-founder and CEO, Ralph Anderl. “At the time I was writing my Ph.D. in cultural studies and two friends of mine, Philipp Haffmans and Harald Gottschling asked me to model their screwless hinge concept, which they were pitching to a big eyewear manufacturer”. 

    Fast forward to the present and ic! berlin glasses are available in over 60 countries and have been spotted on the faces of pop-royalty, Madonna and Alicia Keys, and household celebrities such as Brad Pitt and Morgan Freeman. 

    The patented screwless hinge system is what makes ic! berlin different from other frames. No screws means there is nothing that can fall out or break and the glasses can be broken down into their individual parts and rebuilt by hand, without requiring any tools (current world record: 3.3 seconds). This is made possible with an ingenious interlocking temple and removable clip, laser cut from sheets of stainless steel. The result is a featherlight eyewear that is astonishingly flexible and durable. 

    Anderl's mobile phone number is also written inside the case of every pair of glasses ever sold. “This way our customers can call and speak to me directly and let me know what they think about our products!”

     The company has over 180 employees worldwide. Amusingly they're called “ic! berliners” and they each embody the ic! berlin ethos: equal parts hard work, dedication, passion and lunacy.

    Anderl describes the brand has a Kulturfirma; a place where you can share your opinions and your art. This can be seen at the all-night “Drink and Draw” evenings, special events regularly held in the company basement. “There is music and drinks, but the difference from a regular nightclub is that you can also draw amongst your professional peers”. This isn't the first time the company has shown itself to be an environment that welcomes artistic expression. In 2013 artist Friedrich Liechtenstein spent one year living inside the building, since at the time he had no place to stay.  Liechtenstein is the pseudonym of Hans-Holger Friedrich, a former puppeteer, classically trained actor and artistic director of Berlin's Hansa theatre. This was part of a project called “The Big No”, a 100-day abstinence from technology, modern comforts (he slept on milk crates), consumerist culture and from rent. The “Ornamental Hermit” ended up staying over a year. 

    The company values are expressed in the product itself. In the latest 2015/16 “Crew” Collection each variation is named after the ic! berlin crew, the 180, odd ic! berliners across the world; Sofia P. (graphic designer), Justin H. (copywriter), Christina H. (office manager) are not just employees, they also model for the campaigns and catalogs - a subtle celebration of Anderl's own modeling experience, some 20 years ago, for the company that would become ic! berlin.

    This summer a new collection is set to be released in collaboration with George Bamford, founder of Bamford Watch Department, a unique company dedicated to the modification of luxury watches produced by big names such as Rolex.

    “When you visit Berlin, we should organize an Italian party at the company!”, Ralph's way of saying he enjoyed our chat.

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    sunglasses IC!BERLIN Tanja W”

    sunglasses IC!BERLIN “Tanja W”
    jacket & shorts LEVI'S
    top LO SPECCHIO DI ALICE
    collants EMILLIO CAVALLINI

    sunglasses IC!BERLIN “Jazz M”
    shirt LEVI'S
    blouse & belt SOUS VINTAGE SHOP
    collants EMILLIO CAVALLINI
    sunglasses IC!BERLIN “Sofia P”

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