• Photo by Debbie Patterson

    An interview with Kaffe Fassett

    Written by Linnéa Ruiz Mutikainen by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Craftsmanship, reimagined. Textile trailblazer Kaffe Fassett’s creative landscape embraces eccentric forms, a bustling exploration of not only technique but also color. For him, crafting in color is a recurrent desire. End of September, Kaffe Fassett: The Power of Pattern opens its doors at Millesgården Museum, set to inject energetic to the zeitgeist minimalist agenda of the region.

    LINNÉA RUIZ MUTIKAINEN: Color is undoubtedly key to your artistic practice, continuously depicted through your work. What sparked this interest?

    KAFFE FASSETT: When I first started life as a serious full-time artist, I painted only white on white still lives. Color was just a distraction from many white dashes on white clothworks. I gradually got into color as I encountered Persian paintings in the Victoria and Albert Museum. They were crammed with the movement of pattern in a riot of color, transforming my own paintings to a dance of pattern in multicolor. These paintings made me feel joyous.

    LRM: Your incorporation and later key transition from classic painting to textile craftsmanship is of particular interest to me. Did it come to you naturally?

    KF: I started knitting because the yarns I found in Scotland were intriguingly beautiful. No one was using them to their advantage. It was meant to be a brief relief from my painting career, but soon I found the act of knitting to be so soothing and addictive.

    My mind loved the exercise of creating patterns to carry color in more inventive ways. My personal travels, visits to museums, and searching in books for rich patterns of past cultures turned into an all-absorbing pastime. Months of experiments passed and I got to design for the Missoni’s in Italy and be celebrated by Vogue Magazine.

    LRM: There are regular injections of diverse materials and techniques, from hand-stitching to patchwork and quilting, through your work. Have you always been curious to try out new textures?

    KF: I am curious about new textures and ways of manipulating patterns. But my main obsession and quest is to develop colors in any way that I can find. Just arranging colorful cushions and carpets in a room is deeply satisfying to me.

    LRM: The Colour Lab is not only your studio, it is also your home. Has it ever been challenging or solely creatively fruitful merging private life with artistic creation in the same space?

    KF: I love to wake up amid my projects. Living where I work is so rich to me. I do make myself take breaks to walk or go for a swim to find balance in my life. But I love what I do. I am so glad I don’t have to travel to get stuck in each day.

    LRM: Your upcoming exhibition at Millesgården, Kaffe Fassett: The Power of Pattern showcases a diverse range of your work. What can we, as visitors, expect from the exhibition?

    KF: The Power of Pattern is a celebration of all the quilters around the world who use the Kaffe Collective prints by Brandon Mably, Philip Jacobs, and myself in diverse and brilliant ways. Any would-be creative person should find inspiration and ideas here.

    LRM: Do you have any sources or ideas of inspiration, both for this exhibition and your creative process in general?

    KF: I would say my main inspiration comes from the makers of the past. Skansen is a perfect example. A rich gathering of wonderful life-enhancing design, made by people in the past who wanted life to be decorated and special.

    The exhibition Kaffe Fassett: The Power of Pattern opens today September 30th, 2023 at Millesgården and is open until February 28th, 2024.

    Portrait of Kaffe Fassett and Brandon Mably working in the studio © Debbie Patterson

    Photo of The Roseville Album © Kim McLean

    Photo by Kim McLean
  • all jewelry Georg Jensen x A. Roege Hove

    skirt worn as dress COS 

    photography Sandra Myhrberg

    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist

    The small-scale sculptural: A. Roege Hove and The Inventor of Classics: Georg Jensen

    Written by Linnéa Ruiz Mutikainen by Ulrika Lindqvist

    In celebration of the collaboration between the two Danish brands A. Roege Hove and Georg Jensen, Odalisque interviewed Amalie Røge Hove, founder of A. Roege Hove, and Ragnar Hjartarson, creative director at Georg Jensen. Additionally, our team of editors interpret the collection through imagery shot on one of the last summer evenings of the season.

    The Small-scale Sculptural: A. Roege Hove

    In 2019, Amalie Røge Hove founded her namesake brand following several years as knitwear designer for Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan and was awarded the prestigious Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation at the International Woolmark Prize earlier this year. In conversation with Linnéa Ruiz Mutikainen, Røge Hove put words to her creative core, known for freely mixing traditional with progressive.

    LINNÉA RUIZ MUTIKAINEN: How did A. Roege Hove’s journey commence in the first place?

    AMALIE RØGE HOVE: It was a spark of an idea combined with the simple thrill of knitting. There was no fully fledged reality. Our products, from vision to reality, have come on leaps and bounds. It is incredible to see how far we have come.

    LRM: Your inaugural collection did only consist of accessories. Why did you decide to branch out?

    ARH: I sensed that these artistic experiments had the potential to blossom into something bigger. That is when I decided to dive into ready-to-wear. While bags are fantastic, they are static. Clothes have the ability to layer and flow, to create a symphony of expression. I yearned for that dimension of movement and interaction in A. Roege Hove’s pieces.

    LRM: The same collection is described as “a study of small-scale sculpturalism” on your website. Is sculpturalism still core to your practice today?

    ARH: The foundation of sculpturalism is deeply embedded in our work. Craft is more than just a technique to me, there is an emphasis on craft in everything that I do. It is a pathway to pushing boundaries, focusing on how aesthetics and tactile sensation intertwine. We want clothing to be approached just like art, with reverence for the thought, intention, and skill behind each piece.

    LRM: Your work is experimental yet based on traditional knitwear practice. How did this aesthetic come to be?

    ARH: Our aesthetic did not happen overnight. It stems from a blend of traditional practice and experimentation. The journey has been fueled by a passion for innovation, but also profound appreciation for original craftsmanship and its artistry.

    LRM: Is knitwear an obsession for you?

    ARH: It’s equal parts obsession as it is a specialty. From the get-go, I envisioned A. Roege Hove as a conceptual knitwear brand, destined to challenge the norms with a continuous modern twist. We focus on what we do the best, which is crafting garments in revolutionary silhouettes, made from groundbreaking materials.

    LRM: What inspires you?

    ARH: Japanese paper artists carry a special place in my heart. To me, their meticulous artistry has a unique way of transcending boundaries. Martin Margiela’s avantgarde spirit plays a pivotal role in shaping my creative process as well. Then there is my enduring fascination with Sci Fi films. The way they envision the future intrigues me, it is a realm where imagination truly takes flight.

    LRM: I imagine that opting for knitwear only could be perceived as quite niche, maybe even limiting in today’s fashion landscape.

    ARH: It has its challenges. But that is what makes our brand stand out. Our approach to knitwear is not just to craft garments; we want to redefine the boundaries of what knitwear can be. While it may seem limiting, I have learned that running a brand is not about building entire wardrobes. You have to specialize in something, develop an exceptional skill, and create undeniable value in that product.

    LRM: There is a collaboration with Danish jeweler Georg Jensen. Why did you decide to merge knitwear with jewelry?

    ARH: It came to me naturally. We had experimented, explored new possibilities, and realized that this collaboration would not only challenge our designs. It would also allow us to infuse fresh, daring ideas into our work. Georg Jensen’s reputation of crafting quality products that last for a lifetime resonated with our brand ethos. It is an exciting merge of two worlds.

    Written by Linnéa Ruiz Mutikainen

    The Inventor of Classics: Georg Jensen

    An interview with Ragnar Hjartarson, creative director of Georg Jensen, the classic brand that started in 1904 and still reinvents itself through new visions and striking collaborations.

    ULRIKA LINDQVIST: Georg Jensen is a brand with notable heritage. How has your journey at Georg Jensen been and how would you best describe the brand?

    RAGNAR HJARTARSON: Georg Jensen is a leading Danish brand with more than 119 years of history. Collaborating with different designers is an essential part of how we approach design. We have worked with forerunner designers, including Verner Panton and David Thulstrup for our hollowware, most recently fashion designer Stine Goya for jewellery. Collaborations challenge our designs and allow us to bring in fresh, daring ideas into our work. The collaboration with A. Roege Hove is no different.

    UL: Tell us about the classic moonlight grapes collection. How does Amalie’s version differ from it?

    RH: The original Moonlight Grapes collection was inspired by some of the silversmith’s earliest hollowware designs. These were adorned with intricate grape-shaped ornaments. At the same time, the silver beads add a sense of transformity to the jewelry.  So this collaboration represents a specific take on a collection that will forever evolve.
    A key element for the collection was the power to constantly reinvent itself, which the new collection is a perfect example of as well. By merging our heritage collection with Amalie’s forward thinking approach, we see a distinct meet between two crafts: our century-long metalwork expertise and A. Roege Hove’s expert knitting skills. It translates into a unique design. It seamlessly combines two languages. Georg Jensen’s bold and organic silver beads and the strict and linear knitwear of A. Roege Hove.

    UL: What inspired this collection?

    RH: This collection was also inspired by some of the silversmith’s earliest hollowware designs, which were adorned with intricate grape-shape ornaments. At the same time, the silver beads add a sense of transformity to the jewelry.  So this collaboration represents a specific take on a collection that will forever evolve.

    UL: Please describe A.Roege Hove and the thought behind the collaboration?

    RH: Amalie is a talented knitwear designer. Her brand has become very successful in creating conceptual, trailblazing designs that challenge the norm. For us it was about revisiting and reinterpreting one of our historic collections through a new perspective.

    UL: Any personal favorites from the collection?

    RH: My favorite piece is the brooch, for its fluid form and the way it elevates every outfit. I wear it myself.

    UL: What lies ahead for Georg Jensen?

    RH: Continue to build the future of our 119 years of unique design and craftsmanship.

    blouse & Other Stories
    dress Remake Stockholm
    skirt Cos
    shoes Vagabond
    top Viktoria Chan 

    coat Remake Stockholm
    underwear Slogg

    boots Vagabondi

    top Viktoria Chan
    photography Sandra Myhrberg
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    hair & makeup Elva Ahlbin
    model Lovisa L / Mikas 
  • Stories Launch Zalando

    Written by Jahwanna Berglund

    We went to Berlin for the launch and to take part in an irl experience of
    Stories on Zalando.

    Stories on Zalando is an inspiration-focused fashion experience created in collaboration with Highsnobiety and gives customers the opportunity to discover new styles, trends, products and brands, as well as to take part in wider cultural perspectives and ideas.

    This hub of content, available under “Stories” in the Zalando app, offers inspiring stories and curated content with captivating fashion narratives, especially those about new and exciting brand collaborations, people, culture, society and hyped products.

    With a full day taking us through each guest collaboration hosted by all the collaborating guest editors under each category.

    Started with a panel talk guest-hosted by Highsnobiety's founder David Fischer who went in a little deeper on the importance of inspiring and engaging customers.

    And ended with a performance by the British singer and songwriter Charli XCX.
    Who also is the first to front the “Cover Story”  under Stories in the app, where she gives the readers a behind-the-scenes look at her personal style.

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