• Image courtsey to Acne Studios

    What we can learn from the collab between Acne Studios and Kylie Jenner

    Written by Emil Björnius by pari

    Kylie Jenner is the new face for Acne Studios’ “Dirty” campaign, and the
    Internet couldn’t be angrier.

    When news broke that Kylie Jenner was to be the face of Acne Studios' “Dirty” campaign, the digital realm was ablaze. The iconic imagery, captured by the distinguished Dutch photographer Carlijn Jacobs – known for her associations with the likes of Gucci and Chanel – portrayed Jenner in an unfamiliar light: draped in oversized, mud-splattered denim.

    While the Kardashians are no strangers to making headlines, this collaboration raised eyebrows. Acne Studios, the Swedish fashion powerhouse, has long been revered for its minimalist and avant-garde sensibilities. On the flip side, Kylie's sartorial journey has often journeyed through the opulent lanes of luxury and high-glam. You don’t get many hits for “Scandinavian minimalism” when googling Kylie Jenner, if you catch my drift.

    Kylie, despite her monumental influence, has faced critiques for perpetuating certain beauty ideals and her ultra-glamorous, jet-setting lifestyle. This collaboration brings to mind a similar shift when indie sensation, The Weeknd, teamed up with pop maestro Max Martin, evolving his sound from niche to universal.

    So, could this be Acne Studios' leap into more mainstream, expansive horizons? Or have they, in this venture, drifted from the ethos that endeared them to their loyal patrons? It is safe to say that finding the balance between her image and the Acne brand identity will be a challenge. Only time will reveal the lasting impact of #Acnegate.

  • image courtesy of Chanel

    GABRIELLE CHANEL FASHION MAFINESTO

    Written by Fashion Tales

    The Victoria and Albert Museum in London, renowned for its celebration of art, design, and performance, is set to host an extraordinary exhibition this September. This showcase will be the first of its kind in the UK, dedicated to the iconic fashion designer Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel.

    Featuring an impressive collection of over 200 outfits, as well as accessories, fragrances, and jewelry, this exhibition offers a captivating exploration of Chanel's groundbreaking contributions to fashion. It delves into her innovative design philosophy, which not only redefined elegance but also continues to shape contemporary women's fashion.

    Inspired by the original Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition at the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, the V&A will reimagine this event, featuring rarely seen pieces from its own collection, alongside selections from Palais Galliera and the Patrimoine de CHANEL, the fashion House's heritage collections in Paris.

    Highlights include Chanel's earliest surviving garment from 1916, original creations for the Ballets Russes in 1924, outfits worn by Hollywood stars such as Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich, and a pioneering example of Chanel's evening trousers. The exhibition covers Chanel's journey from designing for herself to anticipating the needs of the modern, independent woman.

    Through ten themed sections, it explores Chanel's groundbreaking use of fabric, innovative silhouettes, and revolutionary construction techniques. This exhibition offers a compelling glimpse into her influential sixty-year career, tracing her style evolution and enduring impact on fashion history.

    Intriguingly, the exhibition also sheds light on Chanel's British influences, including her adoption of tweed, collaborations with British textile firms, and her textile factory in Huddersfield. These connections add a fascinating dimension to the story of this iconic fashion pioneer.

  • photography Ellinor Sjöberg       
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist       
    all clothes Samsoe Samsoe FW23       

    Samsøe Samsøe AW23 Collection: Futuristic flair reign supreme

    Written by Linnéa Ruiz Mutikainen by Ulrika Lindqvist

    For autumn, Danish label Samsøe Samsøe pens an ode to the future, while celebrating its 30th anniversary.

    Sartorially Scandinavian, reimagined. We are all familiar with the sleek silhouettes, trademark neutral hues and monochrome stylings. This season, Samsøe Samsøe takes the plunge into its own archives, a fashion legacy spanning three decades. Classics are reinvented, further hybridized with bolder aesthetics, hinting at a bustling vibe shift. Odalisque’s Linnéa Ruiz Mutikainen talks to Meme Marta Fagiuoli, Head of Womenswear at Samsøe Samsøe.

    LINNÉA RUIZ MUTIKAINEN: Describe the AW23 collection in three words.
    MEME MARTA FAGIUOLI:     It is Scandinavian, modern, and with a slight edge.

    LRM: There seems to be a merge between the past and the future. What inspired this collection?
    MMF:     We are in the middle of a process where we look deep into our styles. Revisit our classics, identify what we are good at. Fits and silhouettes have been two constants, we always strive to update them. To elevate the collection, we searched for the items we were missing. It’s a stimulating exercise finding a balance between being proud of our heritage and developing new styles. Hopefully, they will blossom into core pieces for the brand. The key is to have the modern woman and customer in mind when designing.

    LRM: Any personal favorites in terms of looks?
    MMF:     So many. But I particularly love the Shelby leather jacket with white and orange inserts. The pinstripe tailored Luzy suit is another favorite, also the oversize Solene knit hoodie. I have lived in it this past winter.

    LRM: What lies ahead for Samsøe Samsøe?
    MMF:     We have found a good structure for all collections. The team is solid, we have all worked together for a few seasons. Now we can really focus on details, fits, and general improvement of products. We have just been through a significant process to pinpoint the brand’s position and persona. To have words and visuals clear for the creative teams will only make us stronger and help deliver great collections. We are so excited about the future.

    photography Ellinor Sjöberg 
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist 
    hair and makeup Filippa Smedhagen 
    model Oceane / MIKAs 
    fashion assistant Filippa Berglind Finn 
    retouch Emely Majrell 
    all clothes Samsoe Samsoe FW23

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