• photography Ellinor Sjoberg
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist

    The creative journey of Christopher Bastin: Balancing heritage and innovation at GANT

    Written by Natalia Muntean by Ulrika Lindqvist

    “I never went to design school and was driven by a bottomless curiosity and obsession with clothing rather than being a 'fashion kid',” says Christopher Bastin, GANT’s Creative Director. His first step into the fashion world was a stroke of luck. “I got a job selling denim at this really cool store called SOLO back in the day and got hooked on vintage denim,” recalls Bastin, reminiscing about the catalyst that ignited his enduring love affair with fashion. This experience led to a position at H&M’s headquarters, followed by stints at ACNE and Whyred. Eventually, his journey brought him to GANT, where he initially made his mark as a shirt designer, and eventually ascended to his current role as Creative Director. “Doing things at a whole new level was really scary at first, and it still is. It really keeps you on your toes,” he says.
    When exploring Bastin's creative vision and aesthetic, one discovers a captivating blend. “I particularly enjoy the storytelling aspect and the brand elements of my job, so that’s something I really embrace and nurture,” he reveals.

    NM: How would you describe your creative vision and aesthetic as a creative director? What sets it apart from other designers or brands?
    Christopher Bastin:
    There are a ton of senior designers who are better than me at designing fashion per se, but being a total nerd about American sportswear and GANT’s history provides a tool that goes deeper than just seasonal trends. It’s an amazing tool to have, this obsession of mine. It also helps being one of the original brands who helped shape Ivy and Preppy.

    NM: You mentioned in one of your interviews that you grew up having a passion for music and even had your own band at some point. If you could collaborate with any musician or band to create a collection inspired by their music, who would it be and why?
    Christopher Bastin:
    We did two gigs in total and both sucked so I wouldn’t put too much into it, but I do love music and in a different universe I would have loved to produce and write music as well. I have to confess it would be pretty amazing to dress Harry Styles. The collaboration we did with St Vincent was a dream gig, she really brings it. And we’re dressing Benjamin Ingrosso and his entire band for the tour he is currently on, which is really cool. He’s a musical genius who will conquer the world.

    NM: Can you tell us more about the inspiration behind GANT's touring archive exhibition? What motivated the brand to showcase its 70-year brand history in this comprehensive manner?
    Christopher Bastin:
    I’ve been wanting to do this for like 10 years, it was time. I love that we’re being democratic about our archive, opening it up on display to the public. The concept of having a local curator for each city brings a little je ne sais quoi to each exhibition which is really nice. The foundation is the same in all cities, but a part of it comes through the curator’s eyes and gets a different point of view. We started off in New York in our brand new space, our first GANT Studio, located in the heart of Nolita where the Archive Exhibition was curated by Throwing Fits. It then traveled to London and Paris where the local exhibition was respectively curated by denim specialist Samuel Trotman, aka Samutaro, and Manuel Schenck, an icon within the local skateboarding scene. The latest iteration of the Archive Exhibition recently took place in the Studio space in our new Stockholm flagship store, with Jason Jules (Garmsville) as curator.

    NM: In what ways does the exhibition reflect GANT's commitment to preserving and celebrating its heritage while embracing innovation and progress? How does this balance between tradition and modernity inform the brand's overall philosophy?
    Christopher Bastin:
    Having a legacy comes with a certain amount of responsibility. There aren’t that many brands still around who were there when American sportswear was born. It’s GANT, J Press and Brooks Brothers who are still standing. It’s looking back and knowing where you came from that makes it possible to move forward. We were always a very progressive brand back in the 1950s and 1960s, and I want us to keep evolving. To be the future of American sportswear.

    NM: If you could only have one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it look like?
    Christopher Bastin:
    A GANT Oxford button-down shirt, washed out worn in, faded out 501’s, a pair of great sneakers or loafers and a vintage Rolex. Throw a club blazer and a good wool coat in for the winter season.

    NM: How do you strike a balance between pushing creative boundaries and meeting the commercial demands of the fashion industry? How does this balance influence your decision-making process?
    Christopher Bastin:
    Ah, the balance…first of all, I’m really happy we’re not a public company with a quarterly pressure to deliver to shareholders, the pressure today on a lot of creatives is getting out of hand, it becomes a commodity in itself. I’m not sure it’s a sustainable approach. Of course we have a huge responsibility to our owners to grow and develop the brand both short and long term but we can play a different game: the long game. Knowing your consumer is everything, while you have to dare to push the envelope enough to make a change and stay relevant, and therein lies the balance. But it’s a cyclic movement, not a seasonal thing. It might be holding off a season to push a certain silhouette, while I personally would have loved to have it in stores yesterday, long term it’s better to wait until the early majority has caught up and you can actually make a business case out of it. Merchandising is a fine art. I’m still learning every day.

    NM: Can you share some insights into your creative process? How do you approach the concept development and design phases when creating a new collection?
    Christopher Bastin:
    Procrastination is my best friend and my worst enemy. With the years you learn to trust your instincts and especially once you know the brand as well as I do. It might be something I listen to, a certain mood, an image that catches my eye, someone with a unique style. Sometimes I have a super clear idea from the start, then it’s easy. Sometimes it takes throwing five ideas in the trash and verifying my sanity with my design team before I’m even convinced I have an idea at all. Anxiety is one hell of a force.

    NM: How would you describe GANT's latest collection?
    Christopher Bastin:
    Pre-Fall 23 is kind of an homage to the movie The Graduate, a casual yet iconic wardrobe. The club blazer, the varsity jacket, leather blouson jackets for women, raw silk ties, perfect shirts, all that good stuff. It’s also the season we bring back our original GANT crest logo that was designed in 1985 in NYC. Laid-back and sexy at the same time.

    NM: What emotions or feelings do you hope to evoke in people when they see or wear your latest collection?
    Christopher Bastin:
    Emotions are important, and I think we can make the consumer feel both savvy and effortlessly cool when stepping out of the store.

    NM: Are there any specific messages or statements that you aim to convey through your latest collection? How did you incorporate these ideas into the design process. 
    Christopher Bastin: That good style is timeless, and that GANT truly is a force to be reckoned with. It’s in the subtle details, the cut, the wash, the fabric. There’s been a lot of talk about quiet luxury, and for a good reason. Prep is back, the way it’s supposed to be: effortless, a bit chic and extremely wearable.

    NM: Can you talk about any upcoming collaborations or exciting projects GANT is working on? What can we expect to see in the near future?
    Christopher Bastin:
    We just opened our brand new flagship store in Stockholm which we worked on for over two years, and we’re very proud of it. We partnered with New York-based design Snarkitecture to reimagine the space where interior details are a reference to our heritage and Ivy League legacy. A must-see destination in Stockholm if you ask me. In our GANT Studio (our second GANT Studio and a new multifunctional concept that will serve as a creative hub and bring the community together), we will keep on hosting inspiring and exciting activations throughout the year.

    photography Ellinor Sjoberg
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    hair and makeup Filippa Smedhagen
    models Livia / Mikas and Tage / Mikas
    fashion assistant Filippa Finn

    all clothes Gant FW23
  • jacket GANT t-shirt Eytys trousers HOPE
    sandals Vagabond socks Stylist’s Own
    total look CELINE Homme by Hedi Slimane

    Revolution 909

    photography by Sara Bille by Josie McNeill
    shirt Filippa K necklaces Vibe Harsløf Jewelry
    total look Adnym Atelier
    total look Louis Vuitton
    shirt Filippa K silver crown Martin Bergström
    t-shirt and vest ARV Copenhagen
    skirt HOPE trousers Blank Atelier
    sweater Imaskop
    total look Eytys
    shirt Calvin Klein Jeans
    blazer and shirt J.Lindeberg
    earring used as brooch Vibe Harsløf Jewelry
    photography Sara Bille
    fashion and art direction Qim Claesson
    grooming Francisca Saavedra von Dessauer
    model Carl Tuléus / MIKAs
    photography assistant Nils Löfholm
    post production Mud Studios
    jacket Calvin Klein Jeans
    shirt Adnym Atelier
    trousers Henrik Vibskov
  • images courtesy of Jannike Sommar

    Jannike Combines Queerness and Pop Art in 'Popwave'

    Written by Josie McNeill by Josie McNeill

    Drawing from the shapes of Basquiat’s graffiti and the vibrant colors of pop art, Jannike Sommar designs for the bold, the queer, and anyone who is unafraid to express themselves.

    Jannike's self-titled brand released its latest collection ‘Popwave’ on May 21, 2023. The brand will be showcasing ‘Popwave’ in the park during Stockholm Pride, which lasts from July 31 to August 6.

    Jannike was born and raised in Stockholm but currently resided in Paris. They began the Jannike brand alongside their partner Renata Souto after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp in 2016. Renata now acts as both Jannike’s wife, manager, and director of e-commerce. The two work to promote the vibrant clothing that Jannike creates. 

    How did you first build the Jannike brand?
    J: It started a long time ago because ever since I started doing fashion, like when I started to study, I knew I wanted to do my own brand. Then when I did my higher education in Antwerp. I did my bachelor and master in the fine arts. So then I started to develop the idea of what I wanted to start with. I wanted to do this queer brand with this patchwork technique with the pictures I do. I knew I wanted to start with this kind of kissing graphic. So I started school and then I worked for a few years and then we met and then we decided to go for it.

    R: We actually met at Stockholm Pride eight years ago. And one of the first things I noticed when we met, because it was very warm and Jannike had shorts on, I noticed a very gigantic Basquiat tattoo that they have in their legs. Later when we started to date, I went to Antwerp to see her masters collection. Oh my god, her show was a full Basquiat color sensation graphic, very graphic. So I was connecting this universe that they have in their mind, and I started feeling that there was a potential with the brand during COVID. Because during COVID, we had a little more extra time to work on the branding and the products. We started to launch some products as a test, and we felt a lot of traction from the spontaneous media from markets and then we decided to take the risk with our jobs. And now it's been a little time that we are both dedicating fully to the brands.

    What is the inspiration behind your newest collection ‘Popwave’?
    J: It started with the pop star posters from the 80s and 90s. These mainly showed cis-women, so we wanted to take this mood, but put it in our queer universe. To put this pop art in a more non-binary vibe. And then we created these slogans like, “Pop Your Star,” “Gender is a Wave,” “Stay Queer,” just to convey the meaning to express exactly who you are the way you want. Stay queer.

    R: It's pretty much inspired by the pop art posters and the queer community.

    And then what is the importance of this collection surrounding pride?
    R: Visibility. I think not only for this collection, but all our collections and the brand itself. It's a statement for visibility, representativity. Because nowadays, it's still very harsh for the queer community to thrive. So it's really the message of we're here, we're queer. This is pride month, but the brand is bright throughout the whole year, and we need to give visibility to queer people and people who are not afraid to express themselves.

    How would you describe the style of this collection?
    J: Before I did more like hoodies, sweatshirts, and more like loose streetwear. Then I started doing more looks where you can feel a little bit more dressed up. And I got requests from customers that they missed some more tight pieces, and pieces that you can combine for parties maybe or the beach and other suits that you can combine as you like also.

    R: I would say this style of pop wave is the classical Jannike whimsical, pop, colorful pieces but translated to a dressed-up, sexy look.

    And then you kind of mentioned this at the beginning, but the queer kiss is kind of a motif in that collection and your past capsules. So I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about why it's important for you to incorporate this graphic into a lot of your designs?
    J: The core of the brand is like the queer culture and pop art. This is part of my style, the wavy but very graphic, signature style. It's so important that you recognize everything as a Jannike piece, which makes sense to me.

    Do you think there is a connection between queerness and like pop art and graffiti, especially because you mentioned Basquiat, and with figures like Andy Warhol being a pioneer of the street and pop art genre?
    R: Yeah, absolutely. It's about art and arts in general. It's not being conventional in the way of expressing yourself. So it's absolutely connected and we’re very proud that it's actually visible and that you’re mentioning this.

    What was it like dressing Robert Fux for Drag Race Sweden?
    J: It was really a dream. I was extremely happy to get the request because I knew him for who he was for a very long time and I looked up to him and I love what he's doing in drag. I mean so it was really great.  He's such a nice person. It was a very nice collaboration.

    R: Funny story. We are actually based in Paris and Robert Fux is based in Stockholm. So it was a whole process of defining the style, validating the sketches in distance with Zoom calls. We were fitting a friend here in Paris that has a similar body, kind of, so we did fittings, and then Jannike who went to Stockholm to do the fitting of the first one. So it was very challenging, very different, but it was really an honor because it's an artist that we really look up to.

    Are there any other public figures that you'd really love to dress?
    J: Yes. I mean, one queer person I’m very inspired by is Sasha Velour. It would definitely be a dream to get to dress her.

    R: The American drag from Brooklyn.

    You have a very strong and bold aesthetic. Are there any designers that kind of lead you to this aesthetic?
    I mean when I started to study,  there were designers doing more funny fashion like Jeremy Scott. I mean I always looked after him because I love his work. But I really loved what Jeremy Scott did for Moschino.

    You’re from Stockholm but currently based in Paris. What do you think is the biggest difference between the fashion scenes in those two cities?
    J: Stockholm is more basic and more black. I mean, in our world, we live in the queer world, so I feel more free here to express what I want to do. And then in Stockholm today, and the fashion scene there, I don't have too much connection to.

    R: Because in Paris, you have the classic fashion scene, you have Paris Fashion Week, which I don't need to say a word on, but also there is a parallel fashion scene in Paris, which is more underground. It’s not as well known as the British underground fashion scene, but here in Paris, we are very much connected to this underground fashion scene, which is very queer. There is a lot of freedom, and we feel very inspired.  I feel in Stockholm this doesn't exist. It's pretty much toned down. And I think here we get more pushed to disrupt with fashion. This is the biggest difference.

    And then where do you see your designs going in the future?
    J: Yeah, I want to spread the word. I want more people to get to know and to discover the brand because I do notice how happy people get. They really get happy and excited. I want to go global and expand the brand.

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