• photography by Ingrid Jacobsen

    'Couture Black' - A Manifesto of Shades and Shapes

    Written by Ksenia Rundin

    Yesterday Sven-Harry’s art museum was housing ten unique couture pieces conceived by ten second-year fashion designer students from Beckmans College of Design under the guidance of their director and prominent Swedish designer Pär Engsheden. 'Black Couture' was expected to be a fashion show but happened to be a peculiar experience. The museum space had all of a sudden turned into a vivid theatre scene, where models, wearing entirely black couture pieces, were literally performing, instead of traditionally walking on a catwalk.

    The audience was generously invited to participate in the performance by experiencing the craftsmanship of couture, while observing the playfulness of homogeneous black textures, silhouettes and forms the performing models were theatrically demonstrating.

    The performance started in the basement and continued on the top floor, taking the audience step by step through different forms and cuts of the couture science. There was a sincere moment of co-creation between the audience and fashion, where the authenticity of couture were dancing tango with the identity of the young designers making the beholders’ imagination frequently search for references. Some associations I had were Les Ballets Suédois and Joséphine Baker, ‘The Matrix’ (1999), ‘Blade Runner’ (1982) with its neo-noir science fiction, Martin Margiela, Renaissance, an element of Orientalism with a rebellious twist and Gothic rock. The performance has definitely become a 'hancrafted' experience manifesting that black has a lot of shades and shapes.

  • Art of Non-Symmetric Knowledge

    Written by Ksenia Rundin

    Saturday, March 10th starts with a vernissage of Carl Lagercrantz’ exhibition “NON-SYMMETRY” at GALLERY GREGER at Hornsgatan 46 in Stockholm. Being a great-great-grandson to the founder of Villastaden (Villa Town) and prominent figure in Stockholm’s cultural, political and financial life, Henrik Palme, Carl Lagercrantz draws knowledge and inspiration in that invaluable heritage. Furthermore, he skilfully alternates the cultural prosperity of the family’s history with his American background. The artist was born in 1972 in the United States of America, where he could both observe and learn from the blossoming of different modern and postmodern art movements, starting with the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and ending by Neo-Pop kitsch style of Jeff Koons. The artist usually says, “I do not form my art, letting my art form me”.

    His art path began with his mother, who was an artist and also Carl’s first art teacher. Even though the main academic focus finally fell on political science, the painting has always been a strongly integrated part of Carl’s life. He has never stopped educating himself in art and attended painting classes of Martin J. Garhart and classes in sculpture of Barry Gunderson. Through the years Carl has had several exhibitions, inter alia Spain and Sweden. The artist’s works adorn homes of a number of owners around the world.

    NON-SYMMETRY” is a new step in Carl’s artistic development, where he gathers his inspiration from different aspects of our life, such as brutality and poetry of the city landscape admired by J. G. Ballard, letting the art be a filter for interpretation of the collected experience. Somewhere, at the junction of the ideas of Russian Cosmism and the roughness of our hyperreality treacherously surrounded by artificial intelligence, the artist creates his own reality - his art. Architecture and engineering, philosophy and religion, fashion and art, poetry and cosmic space the artist tries to comprehend through his art. It is both his personal diary and his discovery of a world in art and art in the world. Art is a cosmic universe, built on the ambivalence of past and future, placed on the border between abstraction and science fiction, questioning the role of humans. Art is a remedy to comprehend the world as much as it is a way to understand the human’s role in this world.

    His artworks are intended to create a discourse about non-symmetrical nature of knowledge, where the latter is seeing as a dichotomy consisting of a hard part and soft one. The soft part is the one we cannot structure as it consists of emotions like fear and love, carried out by the limbic system. That soft part is our creativity, which the artist depicts by placing the latter in the context of the real life stained by the futuristic spirit of the hard – structured and technology-dominated – part of knowledge. Accordingly, he endeavours to understand the future role of humans, based on a strong belief in evolution, in the world we are creating together by means of politics, fashion, technology, art and philosophy. Is it a new transcendental realm we are heading towards? Let’s go and see the exhibition between March 10-14!

  • Vestiaire Collective X Byronesque

    Written by Fashion Tales

    Vestiaire Collective collaborates with Byronesque to reveal rare archive capsule collection. Inspired by a shared ethos to modernise the perception of vintage clothing and drive reuse in fashion, Vestiaire Collective and Byronesque are partnering to bring Vestiaire’s global community an edit of exceptional rare archive pieces, curated exclusively by Byronesque. Celebrating some of fashion’s most influential designers, the digital pop up will offer 200 one-off pieces, from an era when designers broke the rules and reinvented the fashion industry.

    More relevant today than ever before, Byronesque’s edit pays homage to some of the most iconic moments in fashion history, from Punk to the mid 2000’s - each piece telling a story beyond the boundaries of fashion. The collaboration marks the launch of the Archive Series on Vestiaire Collective, which will focus on showcasing unique vintage collections. Demonstrating Byronesque’s eye for looking beyond obvious vintage trends and sourcing the unobtainable, the collection will include seminal pieces from Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Maison Martin Margiela and Helmut Lang et al, but also hard to find and unexpected pieces from Jeremy Scott, Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga and Sex and Seditionaires pieces authenticated by the Westwood company.

    Key pieces include the iconic Vintage Maison Martin Margiela Semi-Couture dressmakers bodice apron, from his 1997 collection, one of Jean Paul Gaultier lesser known belted trench coats from 1998, and the Comme Des Garcons show robe from 1986, which became a cult inspiration in the 1980's when Rei Kawakubo took the idea of the atelier lab coat and made it hers. Also key in the collection, there is Jeremy Scott’s logo trench and bomber, now the height of contemporary-vintage fashion, and the Maison Martin Margiela “Fragile” bag from S/S 2006, where Margiela questioned the fragility of fashion. 

  • Designer Martin Bergström x Lapponia

    Written by Fashion Tales

    Designer Martin Bergström joins the respected group of Lapponia designers with his first ever jewelry collection for Lapponia. To be launched in April this year, The Kuu Collection –  a collection named after the Finnish word for moon - is a manifestation of Bergström’s eye-catching style, and a perfect fit to Lapponia, known for its convention-breaking designs. Pale moon and dark Nordic skies are the inspiration behind Bergström’s collection: “I’ve always been attracted by the Moon - this mystical element that greatly affects our daily lives. the Moon orchestrates a constant circle of tides, seasons and moods that affect Life on Earth more than we realize”, states Bergström.

    The Kuu Collection is a crossover of organic shapes and contemporary fashion. “The collection is composed of several separate pieces, all combinable in multiple ways. I want the consumer to give the final touch to the collection by deciding how to wear and combine it.”, says Bergström. The Kuu Collection includes e.g. five separately sold and freely combinable earrings. The collection also includes Lapponia’s signature chain, originally designed by jewelry artist and sculptor Björn Weckström, who originally developed Lapponia’s unique design language. “With this selection, I wanted to pay my respect to Lapponia’s heritage and the work of Mr. Weckström.”

    For Bergström, it always begins from hand-drawing; two-dimensional surfaces and shapes inspired by the weirdness of Nature. Roots, decomposition and organic elements develop in his hands into breath-taking abstract forms that have become Bergström’s signature. The Designer works with several international brands in the fashion and interior industry, creating intriguing prints and collections for them. 

    The Kuu Collection is available from selected Lapponia Jewelry retailers and www.lapponia.com from April 30. For items made by order delivery time is 6 weeks.

  • SVENSKT TENN'S SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

    Written by Fashion Tales

    Svenskt Tenn has reviewed its range of products from a sustainability point of view, investigating the environmental impact of manufacturing processes and materials. The results are presented in a booklet, Svenskt Tenn’s Sustainability Philosophy, which is available in the Stockholm store as well as online.

    Svenskt Tenn works towards the vision of contributing to society in as many ways as possible. For example, manufacturing goods locally helps to keep Swedish craftsmanship alive and it creates jobs. The surplus generated from the sales of the design products benefits important research within ecology and medicine, through grants from the foundation that owns Svenskt Tenn. But CEO Maria Veerasamy wants to go even further:

    ”We are proud of our contribution to crafts and research in Sweden, but we want to become even more sustainable as a company, and raising the knowledge levels is an important aspect of this. This review is a starting point. A source of knowledge that will help ourselves, our suppliers and our customers along the way”, she says.

    To assist in the review, Svenskt Tenn has retained Renée Andersson, one of Sweden’s most experienced experts in sustainable production and human rights, with an honorary doctorate at Lund University. In the auditing process, Renée Andersson has worked her way down the chain of suppliers and subcontractors to identify the materials’ origin and how they are processed in the creation of the final product. The reader can learn about such things as ”conflict minerals”, processes used in the production of linen, cotton and tanning of leather, and how a combination of barium and zinc has made the production of crystal glass more friendly to the environment than using lead – just to name a few examples.

    To read the sustainability review in full - go here!

  • & Other Stories present art brand The Ode To

    Written by Fashion Tales

    & Other Stories proudly presents a collaboration with art brand The Ode To, through an exhibition on the 18th of April and a pop-up exhibition in store the 19th to the 22nd of April.

    The Ode To was founded by Helena Carlberg Anna Lakins, with the vision of creating a space where unique and creative work can be found for those wanting things that not everybody else has. Limited prints and handmade art objects for reasonable prices makes it possible for art enthusiasts to express their personal style in their homes. Several creators from & Other Stories’ network are now a part of The Ode To, not to mention Helena Carlberg.

    Since their launch in 2013, & Other Stories have supported female creativeness. Carlberg and Lukins share the same passion, as the majority of the brand’s work is created by female artists in order to balance the underrepresentation of women in the design and art industry.

    For more information, check out the webbpage: https://www.theodeto.com/

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