• An interview with Godfrey Davis

    Written by Michaela Widergren

    Mulberry - 30 years in Sweden

    Last week Mulberry celebrated 30 years in Stockholm and for the very special occasion the label released a limited edition of The Lily, which got me an opportunity to talk some bag history with both the Executive Director Godfrey Davis and Brand Director Anne-Marie Verdin.

    I meet with the Mulberry folks at Nobis Hotel in Stockholm. There is an ecstatic feeling in the air, I can tell they're happy to be here and when I start talking to Godfrey I also understand that they're dedicated to the brand and their brand philosophy.

    MM: Can you tell me about the anniversary bag, what's special about it?

    GD: Well, there's only 30 of them, since we're celebrating 30 years so it's a limited edition. The Lily bag's very popular in Sweden so we thought it was a good choice. The bag has actually got a label inside that says “Mulberry loves Sweden” which is quite unique. I must say it's a great bag.

    MM: So you have a lot of customers in Sweden?

    GD: Yes we do, we have a lot of costumers from Sweden that come to our stores around the world. We're well know to the Swedes and now we've been here for 30 years. I think there's a good compatibility between the English and the Swedish lifestyles and that's probably why we've been here for so long. For us, that's a good relationship.

    MM: What about the aesthetics of Mulberry?

    GD: Right from the beginning Mulberry was kind of the cool of London, the brand was the It-fashion thing happening at the moment, combined with the English heritage and countryside style. We still manufacture in the UK, which is very rare and we aim to find a balance between the English heritage and more contemporary fashion. Most of our designers come directly from Central Saint Martins and are in their early twenties. So there's always a young creativity pushing us forward and I must say London's a fantastic city to be inspired by.

    MM: You told me a bit of how Mulberry was in the beginning, but what was the essence of the brand when it started, was it the leather goods?

    GD: Yes, really in the beginning it was leather goods, but quite early Roger Saul, who is the founder of the brand, also started making clothes. Actually it all started on the kitchen table at Roger's parents house. He was on Carnaby Street. People were wearing chokers, belts and things, you know it was the “hippy road” and Roger thought that was something he could get into. He was an entrepreneurial guy and that's what he did.

    For the 2014 spring /summer campaign Mulberry started working with the well-known British model Cara Delevingne; quite bold move. She's young, outspoken and some would say unpredictable which is maybe not the first synonyms for Mulberry, but the brand loves her. She's often in and out of the office and has a clear mind about what she likes when it comes to bags. Godfrey says it's not just a working relationship it's also a friendship, “she's just right for us”. The Cara bag sold out in just three days.

    MM: If I would buy a bag, how long do you think I could use it?

    GD: How long as you'd like! I mean everything will wear out in the end, but the quality of our bags is brilliant and they will just look better and better the more you use them.

    The brand Director Anne-Marie Verdin tells me a story about someone who lost their Mulberry bag, found it 10 years later hanging in a tree looking quite as good as when it got lost. Conveniently there's a policy of making leather for all weather…

  • photography by ESTELLA ELOFSDOTTER

    Backstage at J.Lindeberg SS15

    Written by Michaela Widergren

    Biotopia - Unfolding an urban wilderness

    J.Lindeberg has been stepping it up during the last seasons, giving us an SS15 collection including tailored suits and leather jackets with a 60s mods influence. The collection was dressed up but at the same time adjusted for a cooler Scandinavian outdoor climate.

    After the show I went backstage and grabbed the one with the brains behind it all, designer Jessy Heuvelink, for a quick reflection on what we just saw walking down the runway.

    MM: Are you satisfied with the show?

    JH: Absolutely! I still have to see it filmed afterwards, but the energy and the feelings that I have right now are amazing. I'm extremely content.

    MM: Do you have any favorite pieces?

    JH: I have many favorite pieces. It's difficult to choose just one, but I would have to mention the leather pieces. I think they turned out really well. We took a step away from the clean leather we usually work with and introduced both washed leather and suede. I guess that makes it a bit more dirty and with a vintage feeling that we combined with more modern cuts. The flower inspirations I really like. The black leather roses give the collection a bit of couture edge. So there are a lot of elements I'm really happy with.

    MM: How do you keep evolving for every collection, and where do you find new inspiration?

    JH: Well, first of all I look around me, I see people on the streets. I think that's one of the main inspirations to actually look at what people are doing with the clothes that we're making. But also getting inspired by nature, that's one of my main sources for new ideas.

    MM: Do you follow any street style bloggers for that kind of inspiration?

    JH: No, not really, I want to see the people through my own perspective. I travel a lot and by that I get the chance to see so many different kinds of people. But I also think the bloggers do a fantastic job showing us street style from around the globe.

    MM: Does J.Lindeberg represent a typical Scandinavian style?

    JH: We definitely aim to show our Scandinavian heritage. I mean we're a Scandinavian brand but with strong international influences. I think this collections shows that we're ready to go worldwide.

    MM: I loved the show, and I wonder if you, as a designer, are also involved with choosing models and music?

    JH: Absolutely, I'm involved with everything from the color of the shoelaces to what kind of models we use. This season we had a casting process with 300 different models. It's extremely important to get the right characters into the clothes; sometimes something that looks good on one person can give a totally different energy on someone else.

    There's a lot of movement in the backstage area. Photos are being taken and there's a circle forming around us. I can feel the other journalists eager for a few words with the designer, so I thank Jessy for the talk and move on to the next show…

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