• Costume Photography 2024
    © Tate Photography.
    Courtesy Leigh Bowery Estate.

    Leigh Bowery! Tate Modern Unveils a Bold Tribute to the Iconic Performer

    Written by Maya Avram by Nicole Miller

    Earlier this week, swarms of press flooded Tate Modern’s third floor, excitedly assembled for the preview of the museum’s latest exhibition, Leigh Bowery! Chronicling the late performer’s artistic practice in 80s and 90s London, it brings to the fore Bowery’s undeniable influence on pop culture as we know it today. “As an artist, he embodies much of what Tate Modern exists for, really; performance, reinvention, experimentation — in short, reimagining ways of seeing the world,” said Karin Hindsbo, Director of Tate Modern, as we embarked on a tour of the curated space.

    Closely entwined with London’s underground scene, Bowery has famously harnessed hedonism and subversion to challenge the banal. A performer, dancer, model, TV personality, fashion designer and musician, his provocative performance art was designed as a form of activism, encouraging people to push boundaries and encourage their reflection on life.

    The show space’s layout emulates Bowery’s chronological journey into the public eye, with each room symbolising a different part of the making of his persona. And so, the first room marks “the home”, the safe place where he (and his friends) assumed their character. It features some of his first-ever fashion designs, including gimp-inspired head masks, and other iconic motifs such as his synonymous polka-dot print.

    Then you step into “the club,” the gritty setting where his eccentric appearance became an aesthetic that urged onlookers to question the why and how they live. Set against the backdrop of Thatcher’s England, Bowery’s rebellion against conformity peaked with the opening of his club Taboo in 1985. The exhibition displays more than 20 of the intricate costumes he designed and hand-crafted, many with collaborator Nicola Rainbird and corsetier Mr Pearl.

    Bowery’s close friendship with renowned artist Lucian Freud marked a turning point in the former’s relationship with the contemporary art world. Now a subject in his own right, Bowery was depicted by Freud in the nude, bare of all embellishments to offer a fresh view of this flamboyant performer. This was a natural evolution of Bowery’s use of his body as raw material, notably stating that “flesh is the most fabulous fabric.”

    The exhibition culminates with Bowery’s foray into music with his band Minty. Uniting his love of performance, shock value and humour, it enabled him to push the limits of the human form while reimagining ideas around gender and drag culture. Bowery’s final performance at London’s Freedom Café in November 1994 was attended by long-term collaborator Lucian Freuda and a young Alexander McQueen, revealing how far-reaching his influence extended in the worlds of art and fashion.

    “I cannot think of a better way to launch our 25th anniversary programme than with a celebration of Leigh Bowery,” concluded Hindsbo. We couldn’t agree more.

    Leigh Bowery! Will run from 27 February to 31 August 2025, at Tate Modern, Bankside, London.

    Dick Jewell Still from What's Your Reaction to the Show
    1988 © Dick Jewell.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Costume Photography 2024 © Tate Photography.
    Courtesy Leigh Bowery Estate.
    Dave Swindells, Limelight: Leigh Bowery
    1987 © Dave Swindells.
    Dave Swindells, Daisy Chain at the Fridge
    Jan '88: Leigh & Nicola © Dave Swindells.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 1 Look 2 1988 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.


    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 4 Look 19 August 1991 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.

    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 4 Look 17 August 1991 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.


    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 3 Look 14 August 1990 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.

    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery Session 8 Look 38, June 1994
    © Fergus Greer. Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.
    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery Session 7 Look 37 June 1994
    © Fergus Greer. Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Charles Atlas, Still from Mrs Peanut Visits New York
    1999 © Charles Atlas. Courtesy of the artist and
    Luhring Augustine, New York.
    Charles Atlas, Still from Because We Must
    1989 © Charles Atlas. Courtesy of the artist
    and Luhring Augustine, New York.
  • images courtesy of HUGO

    HUGO Introduces Next-Level Tailoring in Spring/Summer 2025 for a New Generation of Bold Style

    Written by Fashion Tales

    In its Spring/Summer 2025 global brand campaign, HUGO flips the script on tailoring. Photographed by Dan Jackson under the creative direction of Trey Laird and his agency, Team Laird, the focus is on flexible, infinitely adaptable suiting. This full-year campaign will unfold in two chapters: Chapter 1 this Spring/Summer, followed by Chapter 2 in Fall/Winter.

    In Chapter 1, HUGO captures a youthful maverick as he navigates a series of red rooms. The styling of his sharply cut suit evolves from classic and timeless, to offbeat and inspired, combined with a snug tank top, a chunky leather boot, a boldly printed short-sleeved shirt, and tailored shorts. His looks are inspired by the concept of The GO Suit: a new, very HUGO approach to building a go-to tailored wardrobe for every aesthetic and occasion.

    In womenswear, we meet a heroine in a sleek white three-piece suit in the red rooms. The camera zooms in on the details: a bold belt, a strappy heel, the cropped cut of a vest, highlighting the adaptability of HUGO's tailoring for all genders, and celebrating the individuality of the person inside the suit: recharging the brand's motto, “HUGO Your Way” as a true statement for self-expression.

    The “go your way” narrative of the campaign also underscores the brand's commitment to a better fashion industry. Enter: HUGO FORWARD, a new platform showcasing HUGO's innovative, technology-driven approach to design. HUGO FORWARD pieces will carve a path of transformational exploration, following the mantra, “You've got to keep moving to stay ahead of the game.”

    HUGO FORWARD's first drop arrives this season: three tailored styles created with plant- based HeiQ AeoniQTM, a groundbreaking cellulose yarn made from wood pulp that rivals the performance properties of polyester. A modular constellation of menswear suit separates, including a single-breasted blazer, casual jacket, and trousers, all in timeless black, these HeiQ AeoniQTM and wool-blend pieces can be worn matched or clashed, smart or casual. Further cementing HUGO's status as a tailoring pioneer, these are the first-ever suiting separates crafted with this fiber to go to market.

    images courtesy of HUGO
  • images courtesy of Dr. Martens

    Inside the SS25 Collection: The People, Passion, and Process Behind Dr. Martens’ Next Chapter

    Written by Sandra Myhrberg

    Dr. Martens has always been more than just footwear. It’s a symbol of individuality, rebellion, and self-expression. The SS25 collection marks an exciting evolution, driven by the talented individuals shaping the brand’s designs and storytelling. At the core of SS25 is The Buzz, a bold ‘90s-inspired silhouette reimagined for today’s wearers, alongside Genix Nappa, a sustainable material crafted from reclaimed leather offcuts. This season is all about fusing past and future while pushing boundaries in both design and sustainability. The Buzz shoe and campaign mark an exciting evolution for the brand, driven by the talented individuals behind Dr. Martens’ designs and storytelling. This season shines a light on the incredible team behind the scenes at Dr. Martens—the designers, product experts, and marketeers whose creativity brings each collection and campaign to life. Balancing heritage with innovation is at the heart of the brand’s approach. The design teams constantly reference Dr. Martens’ 64-year archive to maintain the integrity of its brand DNA – whether it’s through iconic silhouettes, distinctive design details, or standout campaigns over the years. At the same time, this new generation of talent brings fresh ideas, materials and design approaches that push the brand forward. It’s this fusion of past and future that keeps Dr. Martens evolving while remaining unmistakably Doc’s. In this exclusive interview, Becki Evans, Jack Connors, and Bridie Husband share how Dr. Martens stays true to its rebellious roots while continuing to evolve.

    What has been the biggest challenge in launching the SS25 collections, and how did the team overcome it?
    Becki Evans (Global Brand Manager): Dr. Martens has a rich heritage, making it both exciting and challenging to decide which elements of our DNA and legacy to retain whilst ensuring a launch resonates with a new generation of wearers. At our core, we defy norms and celebrate individuality. This philosophy shapes our decision-making process. The Buzz collection embodies that spirit. Infused with confidence and the warmth of friendship, the campaign is bold, bright, and unapologetically Dr. Martens. Our regional teams have brought it to life through local partnerships and activations, helping new audiences to feel the buzz.

    Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in fashion. How does the SS25 collection, particularly the Genix Nappa line, reflect Dr. Martens commitment to sustainability?
    Jack Connors (Sustainability Project Manager): Dr. Martens long-term sustainability ambition is to become a net-zero business by 2040, and a key step towards this goal is integrating more *sustainable materials across all our product ranges. The Genix Nappa line embodies this commitment by reclaiming leather offcuts that would otherwise go to landfill and re-engineering them into a soft, lightweight, and durable material. Since its launch in Spring 2024, the range has been a huge success, and we’re excited to push its potential even further with new print and embroidery designs available next month. Beyond Genix Nappa, we’re continuously evolving our material mix, increasing the number of sustainable options across all product categories to drive long-term change.

    *At DM’s, a sustainable material is one that is durable, made from recycled, renewable, or regenerative sources, and produced responsibly.

    How does Dr. Martens ensure its products remain relevant to both loyal customers and new generations of wearers?
    Bridie Husband (Footwear Designer): At Dr. Martens we rely on our rich archive to influence what’s next for us, with nearly 65 years of heritage, we have a deep pool of inspiration to explore. Our design ethos is to stay true to our DNA whilst appealing to a new generation of wearers by experimenting with new materials, colours and collaboration partners. The Buzz shoe draws inspiration from the ‘90s archive. What aspects of that era influenced its design the most? Everything about the Buzz shoe is inspired by the ‘90s – from the chunky, rounded proportions to the leopard prints and pink hues. The Buzz has a sporty, vintage aesthetic that our wearers haven’t seen from us in recent seasons. There’s a sense of physical elevation and confidence that comes with a big platform sole: it takes up space and demands attention.

    Bridie, you led the design for Buzz and championed the return of an archive sole. What drew you to this specific element, and how did you modernize it?
    Bridie:
    Bringing a classic back in a new way feels extra special. Our team always references the archive to make sure new styles align with our heritage. This type of style had been sought after by true brand fans for years – you can see the love for it by the traction it gets on resale sites and the customer interactions on our own platforms. When I pitched the idea to bring iback in my interview at DM’s, the idea snowballed, and the newly imagined Buzz is now the key mainline style for this season and beyond. The new Buzz silhouette has a classic DM’s identity but brings something bold and playful to a potential new wearer.
    The Buzz platform sits between a sneaker and a shoe.

    What kind of consumer do you envision embracing this new hybrid style?
    Bridie: The Buzz is the perfect choice for anyone who typically reaches for sneakers but wants to elevate their look whilst keeping things effortless. It’s designed for those who love to stand out yet appreciate timeless, investment-worthy pieces. With its unique shape, elevated height and versatile neutral tones of black, brown, and leopard, the Buzz seamlessly fits into any wardrobe, making it easy to dress up or down.

    What do you hope consumers will take away from the SS25 collections?
    Bridie:
    With our SS25 collections, we hope to inspire a sense of playfulness and optimism. We’ve dialled up the joy and introduced fresh silhouettes and bold design details that bring new energy to our offering. We can’t wait for our wearers to make them their own.


     



     

    images courtesy of Dr. Martens

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