• Exploring the History of Androgynous Fashion

    Written by Louise Pauline by Thea Undemo

    Fashion is an avenue for self-expression through clothing, which is why people are always experimenting and pushing the boundaries of fashion. It’s no surprise that androgynous fashion is emerging as one of the most popular trends today, as individuals seek to showcase their identities outside typical, traditionally gendered clothing. Designers and companies across the world report that more and more consumers are seeking gender-neutral apparel. But contrary to what most people would believe, androgynous fashion isn’t actually a fresh, 21st-century addition. In fact, the first examples of androgynous fashion can be traced as far back as the 17th century. Here’s a brief look at the style's history.

    The Beginnings of Androgynous Fashion
    The social constructionist view of gender is rooted in feminist and sociological theories.
    This view essentially paints gender as something that is determined by society— and that includes gender presentation through clothing. Dressing styles throughout history were imposed by social constructs. Traditionally, trousers were a male form of dress, while skirts are associated with women. But social constructs can change, especially when you start factoring in the human desire to stand out, be individual, and live more freely. Though Coco Chanel may be known for little black dresses, she was actually a pioneer in designing pants and masculine silhouettes for women in the early 1900’s. Chanel was an advocate for allowing people to express themselves based on their preferences, so she provided women with more options by designing women’s suits as well as feminine dresses. Designers followed suit in the next years, with iconic designer Yves Saint Laurent crafting tuxedos for women in the 1960s.

    Spotlight on Androgynous Fashion
    The advent of media past the 1900s popularized the concept of androgynous couture.
    The likes of Elvis Presley, Mick Jagger, and Jimi Hendrix were all the top trendsetters and controversy sparkers of their time with their more ‘effeminate’ styling choices, while British youth group Teddy Girls wore suit and ties adorned with female accessories. Another one of the most popular androgynous fashion icons was David Bowie, who was never one to shy away from defying gender norms through his unique personas. Following Bowie's influence, the New York Times coined the term “unisex” in 1968 to describe chunky Monster shoes that suit both men's and women's fashion. Recognizing the power of gender-neutral fashion, the term is still used to this date as an umbrella term for androgynous couture. In the late 70s and 80s, POC and LGBTQ+ musical icons in pop culture made waves in the scene. The Black mega pop star Prince was known for dabbling in high heels, silk camisoles, lace gloves, and the like during performances and magazine spreads. Queer lead singer of Queen Freddie Mercury also gave a new definition to masculinity by incorporating feminine touches into his signature look. Moreover, avant-garde designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo meshed masculine and feminine characteristics into a truly androgynous style of fashion.

    21st Century and Beyond
    In the early 21st century, androgyny became more of a mainstay in the industry, especially as androgynous shoots became more popular in high fashion and magazine spreads. Media also began to prefer a more ‘androgynous look’ for models, actors, and other celebrities. Celebrities like Lady Gaga, Ruby Rose, and Tilda Swinton, as well as modern pop stars like Lil Nas X, Harry Styles, Jaden Smith, and Cara Delevigne, are celebrated for fearlessly being themselves and rallying for the normalization of androgynous looks not just in showbiz, but also in everyday fashion. As we celebrate these modern celebrities, we also take the time to look back on those who have pioneered the whole androgynous style movement. We still have a long way to go, of course— but then again, fashion is ever-changing, and so is society.

    photography Sandra Myhrberg
    fashion & casting Fernando Torres
    makeup Elvira Brandt using Nars & De Cure
    hair Milla Gisselfeldt / MIKAs Looks
    talents Nimra / Fiiri Agency & Jon)
    fashion assistant Katija Hirsch
    general assistants Nike Ortiz Dahl & Edwin Eriksson
  • photography & fashion Alexander Urombi
    jacket Weekday
    shirt Acne Studios
    pants Our Legacy
    shoes Reebok Club 85
    glasses Bavé's Own
    tie J. Lindeberg

    Words Into Melodies, an Interview With Bavé

    Written by Selma Omar Costa by Thea Undemo

    The Stockholm music scene has a new addition to keep an eye on. Bavé released his debut EP ‘In Vermouth’ in September 2021. It is saturated by escapism and takes us back to warm late nights and summer nostalgia. His charismatic stage presence is influenced by iconic guitar heroes and he has no fear of venturing into new territories. We met in his charming underground Stockholm studio to get deeper into his background, dreamy sensual sound, inspirations and first ever live performance.

    What’s in your Vermouth? How often do people mispronounce the album title?
    My Vermouth is both a place and a drink, which is why it's treated as the two on the album: first track is called Vermouth but the album is named In Vermouth. You’re in Vermouth, drunk on Vermouth. It’s intentional and perhaps a little confusing, but it will be a way to use the listener's own imagination and provide room for interpretation. People, at least Swedes, tend to mispronounce it and I think it might be because they think of Vermont. Bartenders always get it right though.

    When you create music, what are you most inspired by?
    For me, it is always first and foremost about text. Which is usually inspired by coming-of-age movies, books, teenage dramas - the classic, person X meets person Y who in turn changes one person's life over a summer. I can never get tired of portrayals of teenage love.

    Where does In Vermouth transport you?
    I am transported to the summer of 2018, when I moved to Stockholm after living on the island Biskops Arnö and writing music for a year. Almost everything that is treated on the EP takes place just before and after that summer in terms of time. It is and will remain the best summer of my life I think!

    It is a hugely personal and intimate album for you that takes you to a specific time in life. At the same time you give listeners their own room for interpretation through the title in a way. Where do you want to transport your listeners?
    I would like to transport them to love as they see it, sex, fresh fruits, the sun, swimming together with friends, alcohol, summer and late after-parties that you overstay for way too long.

    In your interview in P3, you talk about your single “Summer House”, how it has a deeper meaning for you and is dedicated to your mother. But also how it reflects on class differences you experienced growing up segregated. Where is “home” for you and how does it show in you as a person?
    I was born and raised in Gottsunda and kind of always thought that that’s always where home was going to be for me. But every time I go there I just feel more distanced from the physical place. Not that it has changed much but rather because I have found home to be where my friends are. And we have changed. Gottsunda still shows in me as the everyday hustler and smooth talker I am though.

    You feel more distanced from the physical place, but do you feel that the place has somehow inspired your music?
    I guess it might have subconsciously affected some of the themes in my writing, but not musically.

    So what or whom has inspired your sound?
    A lot of psychedelic rock music, Funkadelic and Jimi Hendrix for instance. But also the nature in Nancy Sinatra and the sex in Prince.

    Is there any song that has had a greater impact on the body of the entire EP?
    In terms of sound, I would say the title track Vermouth, which also was the first song written for the EP. It was the first track me and Leo Goldmann did where both of us had an aha moment; this is how we want the EP to sound. That song kind of became the framework or color palette that we kept looking back at while writing other songs.

    When you collaborate with someone like Leo, how do you communicate a feeling between each other?
    Leo and I have a very special bond where we can tap into the same energy real quick. For instance, before making ''Skies'' we both knew that we wanted to write something to dance to. I hit the bathroom for literally two minutes when I heard him playing the bass riff for it. I just entered the room again and sang ''Star-spangled eyes'' and that was that.

    How did Leo help develop your sound?
    I would say that it would be a combination of him being way ahead of me on the technical side of things, but also that he has a background playing in bands. Leo being a drummer levitated the shit out of my sound. I think this is what gives our music that small indie-rock vibe you sometimes can hear on the EP, but also what is now a requirement for both of us - that the music sounds organic.

    What kind of music are you listening to at the moment?
    I’m very much listening to the local scene at the moment - Jelly Crystal, Venus fantastic debut EP, NEY LIQA and June Vide. The sound of Stockholm has never been so sexy.

    Do you have any dream collaboration?
    I would love to make a Rick Rubin record barefoot at his place. I think he could push me into interesting head-spaces.
    You had your first live performance at Södra Teatern in October last year.

    How did it feel?
    First of all, I felt nothing. I didn't even really understand what had happened until a whole day later. Once I landed it was as if every second I had spent in the studio had been leading up to that moment. Seeing hundreds of beautiful, unknown faces sing my songs is completely indescribable.

    How did the gig come about?
    Södra Teatern called me and I panicked because it was in two weeks and I had no band. My friends told me to accept the offer, which I did and a couple of days later Leo and I found Theo Kylin (guitar) and Karl Perlskog (drums).

    You looked very comfortable on stage for your first performance. You may not have any stage fright, but is there something you tap into to make you feel at home on stage?
    Actually, I do have stage fright but I was completely gone once I stood up there. I tapped into my Prince mode and I knew that standing still before the microphone was no option. The dancing part comes more naturally for me than the singing just because I've danced since I was a kid and still do. Honestly it was the singing I was worried about. Before doing the show I even called my friend Stella Cartiers (Stella Explorer) for tips. She basically told me that you always sing off-key a bit at the beginning which calmed me a lot. And I'm pretty sure I did (sing off-key), which is aight.

    How do you feel like the album translates when it's performed live?
    There are parts of the album that get lighter and darker when I perform live. On the EP, In Vermouth has this floral, quiet and vacuum-type vibe. Whereas live, more instruments are added and the hard, dark and psychedelic sides of it are channeled, which gives me room to behave as I do on stage. It's like the backside of Vermouth when playing it live. I want people to recognize the songs while offering them a new experience.

    What did you take with you from your studies while studying at the island Biskops Arnö?
    I understood the importance of isolation while creating but also the total opposite - to let people in.

    It’s been a while since the EP was released and we've had the time to vibe and learn the lyrics. What can we expect from Bavé in 2022?
    This year me and the team are trying to pick up the pace a bit. There will be more music and I’m excited to hopefully be able to perform again.

    jacket Weekday
    shirt Acne Studios
    pants Our Legacy
    shoes Reebok Club 85
    glasses Bavé's Own
    tie J. Lindeberg
    top Our Legacy
    boxers Calvin Klein
    shoes Reebok x Awake
    glasses Bavé's Own
    t-Shirt ULAX Studios
    pants Daily Paper
    boots Saint Laurent
    glasses Bavé's Own
    belt BB Simon
    t-shirt, pants & mules Our Legacy
    glasses Bavé's Own
  • The products to save your hair in 2022

    Written by Yasmine M

    Say hi to the best friends in hair care. That keep our curls hydrated, frizz smooth, and split-ends whole. But most important, that gives us a little joy everyday. 

    HairLust – Pure Bamboo Pillowcase
    If there is one thing to treat yourself with in 2022, is a soft pillowcase. And HairLust, a Scandinavian brand focused on haircare and accessories, has just that. The Pure Bamboo pillowcase is not only gentle on your hair, but kind to your skin. The case comes in four different colors to fit your room the best. The Bamboo fibers are soft as silk (and cruelty-free) that protects your hair during the night. As an assessment, I have the classic HairLust pink case, which perhaps don't fit into the rest of my décor, but I use it anyway since it’s absolutely marvelous. 

    Gisou Honey Infused Hair Oil
    My dry and curly hair can’t live without this oil. While we are supposed to highlight the new products. This one is a go-to, I am on my second bottle and while it’s on the more expensive side, my hair thanks me every time. I have noticed that using an oil, my hair is much softer than using a spray leave-in. On the plus side, it smells enormously amazing. But most importantly the Honey Infused Oil gets rid of the frizz and makes the hair shiny and soft.

    Redken Extreme Heat Protection
    When you are using heat tools, we all know it’s so important to apply heat protection. Redken Extreme, one of Redkens bestseller series for damaged hair is a worthy option.This heat protection cream provides protection from not only the heat but helps strengthening your hair. It’s a multi-benefit treatment and leave-in conditioner. It’s very powerful as it is infused with plant proteins and tourmaline – helping prevent split ends and reduces the appearance of split ends by 70%. Another go-to is the Redken Extreme Shampoo and Conditioner, which I use 1-2 times a month depending on my hair status - just to strengthen my hair and give it a protection layer.

    Tangle Teezer - Styling Brush
    If you haven't yet come across the Tangle Teezer brush, here is your chance. The perfect styling and finishing tool for hair comes in a spring fresh mint color. It's availble both in compact more travel friendly designs as well as larger brushes. The tangle teezer have multply different version that is customized to work for your specific hair type. 

    Sachajuan Scalp Scrub The deep cleansing and sugar scrub, have become a favorite of mine this winter. Formulated with Ocean Silk Technology, climbazole, soybean, and shea butter oil, it’s a lovely scalp scrub that easily transforms from a scrub to a foam. It contains natural Sucrose which helps to exfoliate and unclog the scalp’s surface from dandruff, oil build-up, and dead skin. A great advice is too use the Sachajuan Scalp Brush, designed to be used with the Scalp Scrub to exfoliate dead skin cells and stimulate blood circulation and cell renewal in the scalp.

    Olaplex No.8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask The moisture mask is infused with the patented Olaplex Bond Building technology, which we can find in almost every Olaplex product. These bonds are said to give the hair its structure, strength, and stability. Bond Intense Moisture Mask is a highly concentrated reparative mask that is said to add shine and smooth your hair while providing intense moisture. And quickly said - it does, my very dry and frizzy hair became very shiny and felt less frizzy without using my ordinary leave-in conditioner. I am getting another bottle! 

    Silk Coat – Rebecca Stella Beauty For the humidity we need protection, especially to tame the frizz. This spray creates an invisible shield against heat, and as a result blocks the humidity. Which results in a silk finish for even the most curly hair. It's a simply yet powerful product. Use it by dividing your towel-dried hair into sections and spray from half an arm's length lightly to then flatten or curl the hair. However, wait 5 min until the product have dried a bit so you don't expose your hair right away. While the best way is to use in towel-dry hair, I have also tried it in dry hair, when I needed that extra shield, and it worked.

    Kevin Murphy TOUCHABLE My go-to styling product is this wax spray from Kevin Murphy. I heard about it from a renowned Hairstylist and never looked back. The spray wax finishing hairspray maintains texture and hold to reinforce the appearance of separation for that perfectly messy look. A healthy dose of Antioxidants from Hibiscus Flower Extract, Milk Thistle, Sea Lavender and Carrot Seed Oil help protect and condition the hair, giving it a beautiful satin sheen. It works both when you wish to have that slick wax look with a tight bun, or curled your hair to make sure your hair hold the entire day (and night). The only downside is a bit about the smell, which is quite heavy - but it's definitly a personal preference. 

    Maria Nila, True Soft Argan Oil This nourishing Argan Oil softens and moisturises your hair. A perfect oil if you have fine and thin hair, since it quickly absorbs and don't make the hair greasy. But one of the big points is the scent, that makes your hair smell of vanilla, rose and jasmine - perfect if you need that extra pick-me-up. You apply a small amount of the oil to damp or dry hair when you feel its needed. It's a perfect in-between washes product and now when the spring and summer is just around the corner. 

    Oribe Fortifying Treatment Serum
    This treatment elixir from the new collection Hair Alchemy, combines a blend of chia seed, bio-fermented bamboo leaf and plant-based protein plus phytoceramides and cotton seed extract to shield and fortify fragile strands. The sheer, fast-absorbing serum creates a protective veil around each hair fiber to improve tensile strength and elasticity while preventing breakage by strengthening from within to encourage length. It also work as a heat protection. 

    Björn Axen’s Signature The Hair Mask Last year I was at a Hair Rehab and found the Signature The Hair Mask, An intensive moisturizing and repairing hair treatment enriched with vegan keratin and provitamin B5 which together strengthens and deeply moisturizes the hair. You leave the mask for minimum of 5 min, and let the macadamia and cottonseed oil work its magic. Leaving the hair shiny and soft. 

    GOOPGLOW Restore + Shine Hair Treatment I am still waiting for all GOOP products to be avaible in the entire EU. But until then, this is a great start. This Restore + Shine Hair Treatment is a preshampoo glow serum. In Gwyneth Paltrow own words: “It’s kind of a miracle on my hair,”  It's Made with cuticle-sealing vitamin C, omega-rich sea buckthorn oil, and shine-boosting plumeria monoi oil - that its said to work for all hair types. 

    R+Co Atlantis Shampoo and Conditioner For that everyday hair wash, you don’t want to dry out your hair. The R+Co Atlantis Shampoo and Conditioner, is formulated with Vitamin B5 to moisturize dry and damaged hair from root to tip. With naturally occurring glycerin to balance the hydration level. The Conditioner includes Acai Fruit Oil, Rice Bran Oil and Maracuja Seed Ooil – all ingredients for your hair to strengthen and add shine. A good advice is to leave the conditioner on for at least 5-10 minutes to get that true deep-hydrating effect.

    HairLust – Curl Recovery & Protection Mask While curly hair needs that extra nourishment, this mask is packed with protein and moisture to leave your hair stronger. The Curl Recovery & Protection Mask helps restore your curls. I use it 1 time a week to have my hair recover from any external aggressions. For those of you who don’t have curly hair, don’t be alarmed – the brand also has a Protein Reconstructor that fits all hair types.

    Owow Kit Last but not least, This home treatment kit, is a great beginners tool to compete with expensive salon keratin treatment. The kit gives an incredibly silky hair with just a simple application. Compared to only ordering the smoother, the kit also includes sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to rise of the product with. 

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