• Felix von Bahder on Deadwood’s PS26: "Beauty in the Breakdown"

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Please tell us about the process of creating the PS26 runway show?

    Felix von Bahder: I started with a question: What does it feel like to land in a city that’s pulsing faster than your own heartbeat? Or to face a technology so alien that it makes you feel completely free and completely lost at the same time? From there we put together a mood-board of late-night escalators, neon-tinged rain, cords and cables forming an electric mess. We built the show like a mixtape: eclectic, raw and personal. Actually, the whole process for this collection was anchored in music. Guess it always is for us. Lately a lot of goth, new romance and industrial stuff from the 80's and early 90's.

    UL: How did you choose the location for the runway show?

    FvB:Stockholm’s Parkaden parking house is a concrete cathedral six stories above street noise, a brutalist icon by Hans Asplund and one of those buildings that, once you notice it, can never be unseen. We wanted to create a tranquil, almost sacred space for the audience, an oasis smack in the heart the city’s buzz. Perfect for a story about disorientation and underground salvation.

    ULWhat does the PS26 collection represent and what was the main inspiration for this collection?

    FvB:It’s a love letter to outsiders who arrive in the metropolis and get swallowed by its circuitry. It's also a cautionary tale of the seduction of technology and its dubious promise of liberation. We wanted to capture the allure of the big city, both the glitz and the gritty. Black leather, patch-worked from some past collections. Re-cut vintage tees worn underneath exaggerated faux fur pieces. Sensual snake lace next to scuffed denim. I wanted to take the collection into the comfort of basement venues where the misfits find each other, and the lights are always red.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: What was the biggest challenge creating your PS26 collection?

    FvB: Time. Joining Stockholm Fashion Week was not really our plan, but when we got asked, we simply could not resist a homecoming! But what were we going to show? We were already doing SS26 in Copenhagen in August, and we couldn't present the same stuff twice! So, we figured we had to create a brand new chapter to the story in just under 2 months. Pushing our up-cycling methods to the limit, which means hunting, cutting, and re-aligning many pieces into a few coherent silhouettes, the studio was a creative chaos! But it all worked out in the end!

    UL: What is your approach to showpieces, how much of the show is showpieces?

    FvB: Normally, Deadwood garments are made to be worn and loved. But sometimes we like to drive home an idea or a concept with one-off showpieces, who's main purpose is to ask questions or provoke emotions. But from the PS26 show I'd say all looks will make it into production, although some in pretty small numbers. Some of the vintage-tee concepts will be tweaked to make them more producible at scale. That's it.

    UL: How would you describe the Deadwood customer

    FvB: Deadwood is for music lovers, however genre-fluid. Age, gender, passport stamps, none of that matters. We're a group of humans that value things that last, and celebrate scars that tell stories.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: What can we expect from Deadwood in the future?

    FvB: More risk, same conviction. We’re doubling down on circular and next-gen materials, breathing some new life in our mycelium project, and plotting a few pretty cool collaborations. The second chapter of this collection, which we will present in Copenhagen, dives deeper into that existential thin-ice space where mankind and machines collide. I've been looking forward to this one for a long time now. After that, I'm going sailing or something, haha.

  • photography Jaclyn Adams

    Paula Pantolin: Crafting Personal Narratives in Metal

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Since founding Pantolin in 2006, Swedish jewelry designer Paula Pantolin has turned her deep-rooted love for art and storytelling into wearable works of meaning. From soldering her first piece as a student to creating emotionally charged collections like Isola, each design reflects a balance of craftsmanship, heritage, and personal history. In this interview, Pantolin shares the inspirations behind her work, the legacy of creativity in her family, and how her pieces invite the wearer to become part of the story.

    UL: Can you tell us how long you have been working in jewelry design and what originally inspired you to pursue a career in this field? 

    Paula Pantolin: Pantolin was founded in 2006. My grandmother was a textile artist and my mother is a painter, so I grew up in a creative environment where expressing oneself through materials felt completely natural. It was clear to me early on that I wanted to find my own voice within the fine arts.
    During my years in art school, I worked as an assistant to a silversmith. I started out doing the more repetitive tasks like casting and polishing, but I was always eager to learn more. The first time I saw two metal surfaces fuse together through soldering, I was completely mesmerized. That moment sparked something in me – a deep fascination that’s stayed with me ever since. Eventually, I earned a Master of Fine Arts in metalsmithing and jewellery design, and that became the foundation for what is now Pantolin.

    What motivated you to found Pantolin? 
    I never really liked working for others, haha. But seriously — I knew my
    designs stood out, and I wanted to create jewellery that I actually wanted to
    wear myself, since I rarely found pieces I liked (except for vintage, of course).
    I’ve always loved the idea of people wearing my art close to their hearts.
    We would love to hear more about the Isola collection. What inspired it, and how does it
    differ from your other collections? From idea to finished jewelry – can you take us through
    the process? 
    It’s a deeply personal project. My late father — who was a professional sailor, among
    other things — and I sketched this together many years ago. He sadly passed away last
    year, so I wanted this piece to serve as a kind of homage to him.
    The new collection is inspired by the idea of a life ring, something that helps you stay
    afloat in the turbulent sea of life. Its name refers to “island” or “solitude.” The collection
    is meant to include the wearer in the creative process, encouraging personal expression,
    as there are no rules for how to wear it. The round shape of the pendant works just as
    well on a scarf, a link, or a chain necklace. For example, paired with Pantolin’s cross
    chain.
    As for the process: I draw all the time, and often my ideas don’t fully mature until years
    later. When I decide to bring something into three-dimensional form, I explore which
    techniques might best serve the piece — soldering, casting, smithing, sculpting… almost
    anything.
    Can you walk us through a typical workday for you? 
    I don’t have typical workdays, I’m afraid. Every day looks a little different. But I’m
    very disciplined. My mornings usually start with exercise, followed by checking emails
    and handling web orders (Pantolin.com relaunched in April!). Then it’s a mix of
    sketching, packaging, running to the post office, and whatever else the day brings. I also
    spend a lot of time working by the bench, doing all the silversmithing myself—it's where

    I feel most grounded. Alongside my own practice, I work part time as a fine metal
    conservator, restoring historical objects.
    Which piece from the "Isola" collection is closest to your heart and why? 
    The bangle. It’s unique, it has a distinct character and feels truly good to wear.
    Is there any symbolism or hidden details in your jewelry that people might not immediately
    notice? 
    Yes, it’s in Pantolin’s DNA to hide little surprises inside the jewellery, whether
    it’s a pattern, engraving, or a gemstone.
    Your jewelry is inspired by the Swedish west coast. Is there a particular reason for that? 
    That's where I grew up, and where my grandmother and mother spent their
    summers.
    What do you want people wearing “Isola” to feel?  Feeling empowered and beautiful,
    while participating in the process of how to wear it, will inspire creativity in
    them as well.
    How do you see the future? What’s next? Are there any specific projects, goals, or ambitions
    that you are particularly excited about? I'm currently working on a few new
    pieces that relate to the rituals around the table – an area I find
    endlessly inspiring. I’m also very much looking forward to my
    upcoming solo exhibitions this summer and autumn, which will offer
    new perspectives on my creative process.

    photography Jaclyn Adams
    photography Cicci Jonson 
  • coat Elisabetta Franchi
    turtleneck Dior
    leather trousers Nanushka
    sunglasses Oliver Peoples

    A Twisted Family Saga

    photography by Mehmet Erzincan by Zohra Vanlerberghe
    coat Elisabetta Franchi
    turtleneck Dior
    leather trousers Nanushkaand
    sunglasses Oliver Peoples
    maxi dress in lace Les Benjamins
    white blazer Dolce & Gabbana
    shirt Boss
    scarf Max Mara
    black coat Elisabetta Franchi
    trousers Acne Studios
    boots Saint Laurent
    black scarf Calvin Klein
    silver bracelet Rick Owens
    leather skirt and blazer Kristina Fidelskaya
    leather belt Stylist’s Own
    white blazer Bally
    shirt Dior
    black trouser Burberry
    boots Saint Laurent
    full look Alexander McQueen
    coat Max Mara
    shoes Maison Margiela
    coat Elisabetta Franchi
    turtleneck Dior
    leather trousers Nanushka
    sunglasses Oliver Peoples
    full look Gucci

    top Elisabetta Franchi
    black westcote Isabel Marant
    all jewelry Swarovski

    coat Max Mara
    left page 
    white blazer Bally
    shirt Dior
    black trouser Burberry
    boots Saint Laurent
    green blazer Arwa
    knitted jumper Weekend Max Mara
    trousers Marni
    sand coloured shirt and shorts Noon By Noor
    high boots Giuseppe Zanotti
    black coat Elisabetta Franchi
    black suit Noon By Noor
    destroyed coat in sequin Balenciaga
    full look Alexander McQueen
    cashmere coat Max Mara
    white t-shirt Helmut Lang
    trousers Acne Studios
    boots Saint Laurent
    necklace Alexis Bittar
    black coat Elisabetta Franchi
    black scarf Calvin Klein
    cashmere coat Max Mara
    white T-shirt Helmut Lang
    trousers Acne Studios
    boots Saint Laurent
    necklace Alexis Bittar
    full look Gucci
    maxi dress in lace Les Benjamins
    lace gloves Stylist’s Own
    shoes Elle Woman
    black coat Elisabetta Franchi
    black scarf Calvin Klein
    maxi dress in lace Les Benjamins
    lace gloves Stylist’s Own
    top Elisabetta Franchi
    black westcote Isabel Marant
    all jewelries Swarovski
    black coat Elisabetta Franchi
    black scarf Calvin Klein
    silver bracelet Rick Owens
    coat Elisabetta Franchi
    turtleneck Dior
    leather trousers Nanushka
    pumps Jimmy Choo
    sunglasses Oliver Peoples
    black coat Elisabetta Franchi
    trousers Acne Studios
    boots Saint Laurent
    black scarf Calvin Klein
    silver bracelet Rick Owens
    sand coloured shirt and shorts Noon By Noor
    high boots Giuseppe Zanotti
    white blazer Dolce & Gabbana
    shirt Boss
    black trousers Maison Margiela
    boots Zara Men
    scarf Max Mara
    creative direction & fashion Kawa H Pour / Art Factory Studio
    photography Mehmet Erzincan / Art Factory Studio
    videographery Sepehr Vakili/  Art Factory Studio
    music Mohammad Ahmadian / Art Factory Studio
    makeup & hair Amanda K & Devika

    casting Shadi H Pour / Art Factory Studio
    models Faizah, Kate, Lee,  Alvin, Akur & Kristina / Art Factory Studio
    production Rasul Hassanpour / Art Factory Studio
    fashion assistants Yaula Mazin & Jessica Isaeva / Art Factory Studio
    photography assistants Benga / Art Factory Studio

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