• Exploring the History of Androgynous Fashion

    Written by Louise Pauline by Thea Undemo

    Fashion is an avenue for self-expression through clothing, which is why people are always experimenting and pushing the boundaries of fashion. It’s no surprise that androgynous fashion is emerging as one of the most popular trends today, as individuals seek to showcase their identities outside typical, traditionally gendered clothing. Designers and companies across the world report that more and more consumers are seeking gender-neutral apparel. But contrary to what most people would believe, androgynous fashion isn’t actually a fresh, 21st-century addition. In fact, the first examples of androgynous fashion can be traced as far back as the 17th century. Here’s a brief look at the style's history.

    The Beginnings of Androgynous Fashion
    The social constructionist view of gender is rooted in feminist and sociological theories.
    This view essentially paints gender as something that is determined by society— and that includes gender presentation through clothing. Dressing styles throughout history were imposed by social constructs. Traditionally, trousers were a male form of dress, while skirts are associated with women. But social constructs can change, especially when you start factoring in the human desire to stand out, be individual, and live more freely. Though Coco Chanel may be known for little black dresses, she was actually a pioneer in designing pants and masculine silhouettes for women in the early 1900’s. Chanel was an advocate for allowing people to express themselves based on their preferences, so she provided women with more options by designing women’s suits as well as feminine dresses. Designers followed suit in the next years, with iconic designer Yves Saint Laurent crafting tuxedos for women in the 1960s.

    Spotlight on Androgynous Fashion
    The advent of media past the 1900s popularized the concept of androgynous couture.
    The likes of Elvis Presley, Mick Jagger, and Jimi Hendrix were all the top trendsetters and controversy sparkers of their time with their more ‘effeminate’ styling choices, while British youth group Teddy Girls wore suit and ties adorned with female accessories. Another one of the most popular androgynous fashion icons was David Bowie, who was never one to shy away from defying gender norms through his unique personas. Following Bowie's influence, the New York Times coined the term “unisex” in 1968 to describe chunky Monster shoes that suit both men's and women's fashion. Recognizing the power of gender-neutral fashion, the term is still used to this date as an umbrella term for androgynous couture. In the late 70s and 80s, POC and LGBTQ+ musical icons in pop culture made waves in the scene. The Black mega pop star Prince was known for dabbling in high heels, silk camisoles, lace gloves, and the like during performances and magazine spreads. Queer lead singer of Queen Freddie Mercury also gave a new definition to masculinity by incorporating feminine touches into his signature look. Moreover, avant-garde designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo meshed masculine and feminine characteristics into a truly androgynous style of fashion.

    21st Century and Beyond
    In the early 21st century, androgyny became more of a mainstay in the industry, especially as androgynous shoots became more popular in high fashion and magazine spreads. Media also began to prefer a more ‘androgynous look’ for models, actors, and other celebrities. Celebrities like Lady Gaga, Ruby Rose, and Tilda Swinton, as well as modern pop stars like Lil Nas X, Harry Styles, Jaden Smith, and Cara Delevigne, are celebrated for fearlessly being themselves and rallying for the normalization of androgynous looks not just in showbiz, but also in everyday fashion. As we celebrate these modern celebrities, we also take the time to look back on those who have pioneered the whole androgynous style movement. We still have a long way to go, of course— but then again, fashion is ever-changing, and so is society.

    photography Sandra Myhrberg
    fashion & casting Fernando Torres
    makeup Elvira Brandt using Nars & De Cure
    hair Milla Gisselfeldt / MIKAs Looks
    talents Nimra / Fiiri Agency & Jon)
    fashion assistant Katija Hirsch
    general assistants Nike Ortiz Dahl & Edwin Eriksson
  • MAC Dazzleshadow Slow/Fast/Slow
    MAC  Eye Pencil Ebony
    BYREDO Mascara Space Black
    MAC  Pro Palette paintstick Process Magenta, Primary Yellow, Genuine Orange

    TILT

    by Linda Alfvegren by Thea Undemo
    MAC COSMETICS Pro Longwear Paintpot Babe In Charms
    MAC COSMETICS Dazzleshadow Slow/Fast/Slow

    All Skin
    Clinique Superprimer Universal face primer
    Clinique Moisture Surge Sheertint Hydrator 2 Universal Light
    Clinique Even Better Clinical Serum Foundation CN40 Cream Chamois
    Clinique Even Better All-over concealer + eraser  WN 04 Bone

    MAC Dazzleshadow Slow/Fast/Slow
    MAC Eye Pencil Ebony
    BYREDO Mascara Space Black

    Eyes
    MAC COSMETICS Shadeshifter Duochrome eye shadow - Calling Your Bluff!
    MAC COSMETICS Pro Palette paintstick - Process Magenta
    BYREDO Mascara - Space Black
    RAPIDE Brow Lift Soap - Clear
    Lips
    SMITH’S Rosebud Salve
    HM Nail Polish You’re Sapphired
    MAC Extra Dimension Foil Eye Shadow Lunar Metal
    MAC Eye Pencil Ebony
    MAC Pro Palette Paintstick Hi-Def Cyan, Pure White, Marine Ultra
    left
    BYREDO Colour Stick Ultramagnetic

    top right
    MAC COSMETICS Shadeshifter Duochrome eye shadow Calling Your Bluff!
    MAC COSMETICS Pro Palette paintstick Process Magenta
    BYREDO Mascara Space Black
    RAPIDE Brow Lift Soap Clear

    bottom rightPAT MCGRATH - Eye Shadow Palette Mothership III Gigabyte
    RAPIDE Brow Lift Soap Clear
    MAC Eye Pencil Ebony
    MAC COSMETICS Extra Dimension Foil Eye Shadow Lunar Metal
    MAC COSMETICS Eye Pencil Ebony
  • photography Rianon Vran
    fashion Ivana Balajic
    top worn as headpiece Issey Miyake
    top Vjera Vilicnik
    tights Falke

    Milena

    by Rianon Vran by Thea Undemo
    top Arabella Romen
    suit Emilio Pucci
    suit & shoes Dolce&Gabbana
    photography Rianon Vran
    fashion Ivana Balajic
    hair & makeup Olivia Nwachukwu
    model Milena Kensy / The League Management
    suit Emilio Pucci
    shoes Tom Ford for Gucci

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