• images courtesy of The Archives
    of Iria Leino Trust NY

    Stockholm Art Week: Iria Leino: An Interview With Darren Warner & Peter Hastings Falk

    Written by Natalia Muntean by Zohra Vanlerberghe

    The late Finnish-American artist Iria Leino (1932–2022) lived a life of radical reinvention, from a 1950s Parisian fashion icon to a reclusive New York painter whose vibrant abstractions remained hidden for decades. Now, her work is being rediscovered as a vital missing link in postwar abstraction, blending the intensity of the New York School with the depth of Buddhist philosophy. On the occasion of her dual presentations during Stockholm Art Week, at Market Art Fair and a solo takeover of the former Galerie Nordenhake space, Darren Warner, from Larsen Warner Gallery in Stockholm, and curator of the Iria Leino Trust in New York, Peter Hastings Falk, discuss her extraordinary legacy and life.

    Natalia Muntean: What inspired you to bring Iria Leino’s work into the spotlight now?

    Darren Warner:
    Iria’s story is fascinating; she was born in Helsinki in 1932, moved to Paris around 1955 and became an iconic model for Christian Dior and Pierre Cardin. She abandoned acclaim in Paris to move to New York in 1964 to fulfil her lifelong desire to become an artist, working in near solitude for over 50 years. In her lifetime, Leino rarely engaged with galleries, instead, Leino opted for an existence devoted to her studio practice and her faith in Buddhism, and much like pioneering artists such as Hilma af Klint, saw her work as a means of spiritual enlightenment rather than a commercial endeavour. Leino’s experimentation and manipulation of acrylic pigments during the ’60s and ’70s is of particular significance; alongside her peers in the second wave of the New York School such as Helen Frankenthaler, Keneth Noland and Larry Poons, Leino was a pioneer in the development of a more lyrical abstraction, an antidote to the more gestural abstract expressionism that had come before. After she died in 2022, there were over 1000 paintings and works on paper left within her Soho loft; an extraordinary time capsule of works of exceptional quality that helps broaden the story of 20th century abstract painting in a powerful way.

    NM: Leino abandoned a successful modelling career for a secluded life of painting - how did this shift influence her artistic voice? How did her faith shape her creative process?

    Peter Hastings Falk:
    Iria never intended to become reclusive. She wanted to be as much a star in the art world as she had become in the fashion and modelling world. While in New York, major dealers, such as the legendary Leo Castelli, visited her and liked her work very much but she was impatient about waiting in line and always wound up turning them off. Throughout her life, she battled many demons and struggled at times with bouts of bulimia and anorexia. She had countless boyfriends, and at least four of them proposed marriage to her but she rejected all of them. To her, men were like children, requiring too much work, and they would get in the way of her painting time. Iria was full of contradictions. But through her conversion to Buddhism in 1968, she found a consistent philosophy and a way to focus on her art. This allowed her to express herself authentically and compellingly, as she was not a follower of the New York Abstract Expressionist painters and not derivative of her more famous peers. Her use of colour and techniques often came to her from dreams, which she recorded consistently in her journals. Even the spiral sgraffito in her colour field paintings were not just decorative elements, they had deep life meanings.

    NM: Why did you choose to present the Colour Field and Buddhist Rain series, and what do they reveal about her evolution as an artist?

    DW:
    In Leino’s work, you are swept into an ethereal world where the artist’s abstract manifestations skillfully capture the spiritual dimensions of our inner selves. Favouring the contemplative nature of pure colour and its sensuous immediacy over the spontaneous intensity of gestural abstraction, Leino dedicated several years to developing dozens of immersive colour fields and lyrically abstract paintings. The Colour Field and Buddhist Rain series are the first two collections that ignited Leino’s lifelong exploration of the viscosity of acrylic paint across various styles. Each series embodies key elements of Iria’s practice and serves as an ideal introduction to her extensive body of work, which includes many definitive series.

    NM: Why was Stockholm the right place to launch Leino’s work in Scandinavia, especially during Art Week?

    DW:
    Iria had a long-held relationship with Sweden and Stockholm in particular. She had learned Swedish and made many Swedish connections through her time at the Swedish Girls School in Helsinki. Iria’s journals start in 1955 but she made many references to spending her summers working in Stockholm as a waitress, this would have been from around 1950 through to 1954. Market Art Fair and Stockholm Art Week provide a perfect platform to present Iria’s groundbreaking painting to a Swedish audience for the first time in nearly 50 years. Iria was included in the exhibition ‘Finsk bild: aktuell skulptur, måleri och grafik at Liljevalchs Konsthall in 1977 where she showed a selection of works from her Buddhist Rain series so the idea that we could present her work within the same space nearly 50 years later felt like a wonderful full circle moment. During this period, Stockholm emerges as a central hub for the broader Scandinavian art community. This makes it an ideal moment to pay tribute to and spotlight an important yet under-recognised Scandinavian painter, who we believe is one of the most significant Svandinavian artistic discoveries of the last 50 years.

    images courtesy of The Archives
    of Iria Leino Trust NY
  • images courtesy of CHANEL

    Chanel Cruise 2025/26 — Lago di Como, Italy: Golden Dreams on the Water’s Edge

    Written by Jahwanna Berglund by Zohra Vanlerberghe

    There are runway shows, and then there are moments of cinematic magic — Chanel’s Cruise 2025/26 presentation at Villa d’Este was unmistakably the latter. Perched on the edge of Lake Como, the legendary Renaissance hotel transformed into a stage of luminous nostalgia and luxury. A place where film, fashion, and fantasy effortlessly converge.

    Directed by longtime Chanel muse Sofia Coppola, the show’s teaser film cast model Ida Heiner in a daydream, drifting through terracotta-toned terraces, grand marble staircases, and sunlit balconies. Her movements — unhurried, reflective — perfectly captured Coppola’s signature mood: soft, nostalgic, and intimate. This was more than a preview; it was a cinematic portal. A breathtaking homage to the golden allure of la dolce vita.

    The Cruise 2025/26 collection is an invitation to luxuriate in Italian elegance. With its palette of sun-washed peaches, lake blues, soft whites, and the ochres of the Villa itself, the garments seemed born from the very landscape. Flounced pastel taffeta gowns, sequin-laced tweeds, and backless striped lamé jumpsuits evoked the glamour of dressing up just for the joy of being seen by a lover, a stranger, or oneself in the mirror.

    Among the collection’s most captivating looks was a golden tweed trouser suit, structured yet effortlessly fluid. With its high Mandarin collar, sculptural buttons, and gently flared trousers, it radiated a stately ease. Styled with a soft caramel suede shoulder bag and barely-there makeup, the look whispered power, not shouted it. A modern-day empress on the shores of Como. This was no mere outfit — it was a gold standard.
    It’s gold. Solid gold. Baby.

    Gabrielle Chanel once counted Luchino Visconti, the great Italian filmmaker, as a close friend and this collection feels like an echo of his world: cinematic, sensual, suspended in time. Strings of pearls, silk foulards tied with ease, oversized sunglasses, and poolside-ready mules completed a wardrobe fit for late afternoons drifting into candlelit evenings.

    To witness it live would have been unforgettable. Missing it? A masterclass in fashion FOMO.

    images courtesy of CHANEL
  • photography Jean-Baptiste Béranger courtesy
    of the artist and Wetterling Gallery
    lo, No. 9, 2022.
    77 cm x 57 cm
    Color pencil on handmade paper

    Stockholm Art Week: An Interview With Amy Simon

    Written by Natalia Muntean by Zohra Vanlerberghe

    Amy Simon’s work is a profound meditation on identity, memory, and the fluid boundaries between self and other. In her latest series, Io (Italian for “I”), she redefines portraiture through reverse selfrepresentation, stripping away preconceptions of age and gender while drawing on the symbolism of hair, evoking mythic figures like Medusa and Rapunzel. Represented by Wetterling Gallery, Simon is presenting a solo exhibition at Market Art Fair, from May 15th to the 18th.

    Natalia Muntean: In your Io series, you describe the works as “reverse self-portraits”; that explore identity, age, and gender through self-representation. How does this concept of reversing traditional portraiture allow you to delve deeper into the complexities of identity, and what challenges did you face in creating these works?

    Amy Simon: Portraiture, per se, has the intention of capturing an individual through physical attributes and expressions that are then perceived to relay an inner thought and emotional state of being. Presumptions are made. In “Io” I have the intention of reframing the concept of identity. Without preconceived information, space is created for exploration and reflection. The viewer is now complicit in becoming part of the work in front of them, imitating the exact position of the figure, looking ahead and beyond. Sharing an imaginative vista. The assumption of age is taken away. Gender is exhibited via the stereotypes of hair and the sensuality it represents. My thoughts and imagination are locked within this representation, the audience’s addition of their history is their key to unlocking the experience whether with complicity or reluctance. The series was initiated during a period of limited travel. I have previously focused on the “other”, the step to redirect my work using myself as the subject created a new challenge regarding the exposition of the more introspective and private aspects of my persona as an artist. More than just a signature, the self-portrait is a revelation. “Io” (I in Italian), first person, like the id, is the primary self with no buffers. It’s only when I’m making art that an authentic sense of well-being surrounds me. That’s when the hundreds of alternative thoughts cease, and a calm non-distracted focus sets in. I can sit and draw for too many hours, losing all sense of time.

    NM: In the same series, Io, you draw on Surrealist techniques and the symbolism of hair, referencing figures like Medusa and Rapunzel. How do these symbols help you explore themes of identity, gender, and self-representation in a personal and timeless way?

    AS: When I begin a series there is an organic development as to the direction the works will take. With art historical knowledge, I’m always unconsciously tapping into  artists that I admire and move me. The specific references are more of an afterthought while viewing a series of my works and finding a thread connecting them to a more psychological level. The references to both mythological and fictional characters pinpoint a contradiction of strength and power balance than that which is usually assigned to women.

    NM: Your practice spans photography, drawing, sculpture, and documentary film. How do you decide which medium best suits a particular concept or series, and how does working across such diverse formats influence your creative process?

    AS:
    Drawing has always been a mainstay in my practice. It is where I started and continue to find my most natural voice. Other mediums are often offshoots from drawing. When I feel it would be an added expression, or even more interesting to experiment with another medium to fully accomplish a conceptual idea, I pursue it. I have a long history with several mediums and feel comfortable in each. That said, my drawing “technique” is the same as I have been applying to my work for more than 45 years. The materials are identical to those I’ve used for drawing since 1978. Using very malleable pencils, layer after layer, allows me to paint by drawing in the most intimate of ways. Having direct contact with handmade paper serves as an unbroken line between myself and the artwork. Creating “timeless” work is always a given if the work is true and the best I can create.

    NM: You draw inspiration from Renaissance artists like Dürer to modernists like Magritte. How do these historical influences shape your contemporary practice, and how do you reinterpret their techniques to address modern themes of dislocation and impermanence?

    AS:
    A great artwork is always a great artwork, no matter the era. I never attempt to imitate another artist’s style or method but use those references as a threshold and goal for what I hope to reach. I have always had the concept of home in my mind when making work, be it physical, psychological or emotional. The feeling of impermanence and longing for roots is a concept that has driven my exploration of people, cultural artefacts and societal assimilation since the very beginning. Where we find ourselves in the world along with what material things we take with us or leave behind help create a picture or story of who we are. A portrait of a more existential kind. Within my imagery, I feel that I ask the questions. The process and eventual finished works allow me to come to a greater understanding of my subject matter. Presenting this “evidence” in art has given me a greater reach towards the viewer, inviting them into my world by allowing space for them to create their own story or answers, whether they coincide with my own or are specific to them. That’s when I consider a work successful.

    lo, No. 22, 2022.
    77 cm x 57 cm
    Color pencil on handmade paper
    Io, No. 23, 2022.
    77 cm x 57 cm
    Color pencil on handmade paper
    Io, No. 19, 2022.
    77 cm x 57 cm
    94 Color pencil on handmade paper
    photography Jean-Baptiste Béranger courtesy
    of the artist and Wetterling Gallery

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