• images courtesy of Joakim Züger / BARSK Projects

    SPECTRUM an Interview with Julie Quottrup Silbermann

    Written by Natalia Muntean by Sandra Myhrberg

    CHART, the Nordic art fair, has become a cornerstone of the area’s contemporary art scene since its beginnings in 2013. What began as a collaborative e!ort among five galleries to showcase Nordic art has evolved into a dynamic, multi-faceted event that transcends the traditional art fair model. Today, CHART not only highlights leading and emerging galleries from the Nordic region but also integrates a rich public programme of performances, talks, and exhibitions, all aimed at making contemporary art accessible to a wider audience.

    In 2023, CHART welcomed an impressive 22,000 visitors, reflecting its growing influence and appeal. As Julie Quottrup Silbermann, Director of CHART Art Fair, explains, “We aim to be more than just an art fair. The fair itself features 28 to 40 galleries, but around it, we’ve expanded into a larger public programme that includes performances, music, and talks - all free of charge.”

    CHART is dedicated to fostering collaboration among galleries, rethinking public spaces, and prioritizing sustainability, all while creating an inclusive platform for Nordic art. As Silbermann says, “We’re not just building an art fair; we’re building a community.”

    Natalia Muntean: How has Chart evolved since it started in 2013?
    Julie Quottrup Silbermann: Chart is an annual art event that began in 2013, created by five galleries to showcase the Nordic art scene. Initially focused on collaboration among Nordic galleries, the format evolved three years ago to include a broader program and a partnership with Tivoli Gardens for outdoor exhibitions. Today, Chart invites Nordic galleries to participate, emphasising that it is more than just an art fair. The event features performances, emerging musicians, and a talks program with discussions relevant to contemporary art, all free to the public. Additionally, collaborations with other institutions allow visitors to explore new exhibitions and attend previews during the event.

    NM: The Nordic region is often seen as progressive and forward-looking - how does Chart reflect or challenge these ideas?
    JQS: We aim to present a broad view of Nordic art by inviting both established and emerging galleries from the region and beyond. There’s a growing trend of galleries balancing art and design, with artists creating functional sculptures, particularly in small, artist-run spaces like Coulisse Gallery and Public Service Gallery in Stockholm. This reflects an increasing interest in unique artworks for personal collections. While emerging galleries are thriving, mid-tier ones face challenges, while established galleries have a steady audience. Since Chart’s inception, both invited and self-nominating galleries have participated. I visit Nordic capitals annually to discover new spaces and gather recommendations from established galleries, ensuring we showcase the most exciting new Nordic talent at Chart.

    NM: What do you think is the role of CHART in shaping the Nordic art market?
    JQS: For the participating galleries, it’s an important part of their year to take part in a fair that specialises in the Nordics. We create a community around it, and it’s not just about the fair itself. Throughout the year, participating galleries present their exhibitions, and we collaborate on art calendars. We also reach out to art professionals, organising online curator meetings five times during the spring to introduce galleries to them. I feel the galleries are part of this community, and they’re introduced to art professionals in a meaningful way. I hope and I feel we’re giving a lot back to the galleries by fostering collaboration and mutual support. This is reflected in the fair’s design. When you enter, you don’t see long aisles or booths. Instead, you step into rooms that might feature three galleries at once, creating a cohesive exhibition experience. This setup allows art professionals, collectors, or firsttime visitors to engage openly with the galleries. You’re essentially walking in and out of different gallery spaces seamlessly, without the barriers of traditional booths.

    NM: This is the last year for Chart Architecture why did you decide this would be the last year?
    JQS: CHART Architecture has been running for ten years. Over this time, we’ve invited young architects to create pavilions in the courtyard, and it’s been very inspiring to see their creative, innovative designs. But after ten years, we felt it was time to try something new. This year, we’re introducing CHART Public and it’s essentially an open call. We’re asking architects, designers, and artists to submit proposals on how to create a more inclusive, creative, and aesthetically engaging public space in front of Charlottenborg.
    The goal is to rethink how public spaces can be more than just places we pass through - how they can become areas where people want to gather, sit, talk, and connect. We’re also exploring how this space can serve as a way finder, guiding visitors from the Kingsway in front of Charlottenborg through the courtyard and into the art fair.

    NM: And what about the outside exhibition at Tivoli?
    JQS: This is also going to be the last time for CHART at Tivoli. It’s been such an exciting project and so much fun for the artists to put up sculptures or installations. For instance, last year, we had a sculpture standing in one of the fountains, an artist created a project for the roller coaster, and we showed art films on big screens next to the huge stage where they have concerts. This year, we’ve also started inviting galleries to participate, so I have absolutely no idea what to expect. There are so many places around the gardens that we can use, and I’m really trying to encourage all the galleries and their artists to come up with art pieces that will be placed throughout the garden. When you walk around, it’s a 180-year-old amusement park with flower beds, fountains, roller coasters, and restaurants, and then, suddenly, you come across a contemporary art installation placed in one of the classic settings. The openness of an institution like Tivoli to collaborate in this way has made it a very fun project. For the audience, it’s unexpected because they go to Tivoli expecting roller coasters and then see a contemporary art installation next to it. It’s something they might never have thought about.

    NM: Speaking of this year, are there any particular trends or themes you’re noticing?
    JQS:
    I’m excited to see how the open call for the courtyard evolves and what ideas will come in. I’m also looking forward to our “Start Collecting” exhibition with CHART. This initiative started two years ago, invites galleries to submit artworks priced at a maximum of 3,000 euros. In a space called The Chapel, we present affordable artworks from both emerging and established artists, aiming to spark conversations about art collecting. Many are interested in collecting but think it requires a fortune. We want to show that unique art can be accessible at lower price points. Attending an art fair is a great way to explore various galleries and styles. It helps you discover your own preferences, whether you’re drawn to paintings, photographs, or conceptual art. At an art fair, you’ll encounter works that surprise you and others that you can’t resist.

    NM: What advice would you give to someone attending CHART for the first time?
    JQS:
    Be very open to everything you see and be curious. Don’t hold back in asking questions to the galleries, they want to talk about the artworks they’re presenting. They’re there with a concept and a submission from the artist, and they want to share the artist’s stories and the concepts behind the works. You’re being introduced to so many different galleries, so take advantage of that.

    NM: Sustainability is an important focus for art fairs globally. How is CHART addressing this issue?
    JQS:
    Having a sustainable strategy is essential for institutions and industries today. Last year, we joined the Gallery Climate Coalition (GCC) to actively report our carbon footprint and outline our sustainability plans. We take action by reducing printing, boosting social media visibility, and collaborating only with local food and drink partners. Instead of building new structures, we utilise existing ones. At the fair, we use glasses instead of plastic and have partnered with a transport company for shared transportation. We’re also organising meetings with the GCC to help our galleries adopt sustainability initiatives and focus on the Nordic region rather than flying in international galleries or artists. It’s important for CHART to be aware of its local footprint and support the Nordic community. We encourage collectors to plan purchases sustainably instead of opting for overnight shipping.

    NM: What is the biggest challenge in organising Chart?
    JQS:
    The biggest challenge is that it takes a year to build up the fair. As a non-profit organisation, we really depend on funding, sponsorships, and partnerships. Without them, we can’t exist. Of course, our most important clients are the galleries. Without them, we wouldn’t exist either. Keeping the galleries as our priority is essential. One of the biggest challenges is being a non-profit organisation while growing and securing partners and sponsors every year.

    NM: We’ve talked about CHART in the context of the Nordics. What do you see as CHART’s role in the broader contemporary art ecosystem?
    JQS:
    I see the Nordic art scene as very international. Artists represented by the galleries often go abroad, whether to study, participate in gallery shows, or exhibit in museums. I feel we have a very international art scene, and the galleries need to go beyond the Nordics to present their artists. I see a growing interest in the Nordic art scene, and it’s developing well, especially for emerging artists. However, it’s also a tough time due to the current economic situation.

    NM: Looking ahead, what are CHART’s ambitions to further sustainability and diversity within the programme and the Nordic art scene?
    JQS:
    Of course, we want to be more visible in the Nordics. Right now, we’re focusing a lot on art professionals, combining them with the galleries and creating a network where curators, museum people, and others can come to the fair, meet the galleries, and connect with artists. For us, it’s about creating a platform where people in the industry can network. Another part of it is to remain as open and inclusive as possible for a broader audience.

    images courtesy of Joakim Züger / BARSK Projects
  • photography Josefin Osis
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    hair and makeup Sandy Alfares
    all clothes Viktoria Chan
    all shoes Flattered

    An Interview With Viktoria Chan

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Structured elegance, subtle strength, and timeless design. Viktoria Chan’s fashion philosophy is as thoughtful as it is empowering. Since launching her eponymous brand in 2013, the Swedish-Chinese designer has redefined minimalism with a distinctly modern edge, creating pieces that elevate rather than overshadow the wearer. In this interview, Viktoria speaks with Odalisque about architectural inspiration, the art of balance in fashion, and how clothes can quietly yet powerfully boost confidence in the women who wear them.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Your brand embodies structured simplicity and modern sophistication,aiming to empower the urban career woman. How do you translate these concepts into your designs?
    Viktoria Chan:
    Simplicity is long lasting and classic, but it can sometimes also be soulless. So our motto in doing design is to always think beyond that, to bring personality in both the pieces and the wearer. As such we have a golden rule, to make something complicated simple, and to make something simple memorable. A very plain T-shirt is a go to in the wardrobe, but it is just a white T-shirt. However if we play with just one seem, it becomes something unique. This doesn’t mean that we just add details just because we have to, but every detail has to make sense!

    UL: Your philosophy emphasizes that it’s not the clothes that should be noticed, but the woman wearing them. How do you design pieces that enhance the wearers presence without overshadowing her?
    VC:
    That is also aligns with the fact that we want to do minimalistic yet unique as it wont take over but only add flavor, to spice it up a bit with the same purpose make-up has. In Sweden we call “lagom”, it’s just the right amount of simplicity and complexity and that’s how we aim to enhance and bring personality to the wearer.

    UL. Architecture and natural movement inspire your signature silhouettes. Can you share how these elements influence your design process?
    VC:
    In architecture, human body, art and in clothing there are a lot of similarities. The golden ratio is one of them where lines are drawn in the most visually balanced perspective. As such we can most often draw inspiration from both art and architecture as lines can all be applied in the same way. It can be constructed lines, folded pleats, bold swirls etc. The nature is also an important source where the nature has and creates a lot of beautiful elements such as stones, crystals, plants, and much more. For example the movement of the wind can be captured and implemented in our design by draping and choice of fabric.

    UL: Versatility is a key aspect of your collections, allowing for seamless transitions from day to night. How do you approach creating such adaptable pieces?
    VC:
    There are different aspects that make it more or less dressed up. The choice of fabric, the design or the styling. Shiny fabrics are visually more dressed up, but styled with something casual, it has a perfect daily look. I personally love wearing nice satin trousers with an oversized top that can easily be transitioned from day to evening look. Some silhouettes are more dressed up already, which we intend to dress down by choosing for example linen or cotton.

    UL: Your designs feature neat tailoring, sleek colors, feminine lines, and minimalist details. How do you balance these elements to maintain your brands essence?
    VC:
    I believe by having all these features merged together, that’s how we can maintain the brands essence. Of course, in our collection we have pieces that are more feminine, cooler, or cuter, but they are all representing VC but on different occasions.

    UL. Your collections showcase timeless design elements like knots and curves, infused with a unique, neutral sensibility. What inspires these recurring motifs in your work?
    VC:
    As I mentioned before, I really like to express my creativity and design by playing with construction and deconstruction, how to manipulate lines, curves and knots that is shaped . But the details should not be excessive nor too much, they should look like they were meant to be there, just a subtle detail that gives the extra touch.

    UL: You launched your brand in late 2013 and have since expanded internationally. What challenges and milestones have you encountered during this journey?
    VC:
    In every stage we face different types of challenges and then there are some challenges that is ongoing, so I guess it will always be like that. I studied business in school so apart from loving fashion, I had no experience nor knowledge about the fashion business. Adding to that, I had no network in fashion either on the Chinese or the Western market. In the beginning I faced challenges to find suppliers, photographers and then of course challenges related to marketing and sales. Apart from these, there are even more everyday micro-challenges to face, such as delivery time, counterfeit products, delays, market demands, and more. At the same time, every milestone is a success. Seeing every editorial, everyone buying and wearing VC, every new store and existing stores are all fractions of the journey that keeps us ongoing.

    UL. Your brand caters to the independent woman who empowers herself through personal style. How do you envision your designs supporting and enhancing this empowerment?
    VC:
    I think it would be the answer to previous questions. I believe it’s important to dress for yourself and feel empowered from the inside. I try to boost this in my design, where details, patterns and material can make them feel confident about themselves. We have customers who come to us after a date and say they felt so beautiful that their confidence was noticed. We have customers who buy our pieces for work occasions and will also wear VC on important meetings and conferences because they feel more empowered in the clothing. And they wear it over and over again, it’s like their go to uniform when they’re about to make something important. In the end, we don’t do magic, but through small unique details, we can boost inner beauty, not take over only enhance the wearer.

    UL: Can you describe a typical day in your life as a designer? How do you balance the creative and business aspects of your role?
    VC:
    In different periods I do different things. But on a normal day I would come to the office at 10 am starting with checking my emails, then do fabric purchasing, manage delayed stocks and placing more stocks, for lunch I do a quick take-out , followed by more admin tasks. In the afternoon I will start doing some creative design work. During my design period which usually lasts for 2 months in a row before every launch, I will be fully invested in design and fabric sourcing until late evenings. In those periods I normally go home at 8pm and continue working at home. I think the creative part is most difficult when there’s lack of inspiration but we have a deadline coming up.

    UL: Looking ahead, what are your aspirations for the future of your brand? Are there any upcoming projects or goals you’re particularly excited about?
    VC:
    I hope to expand internationally, to gain a bigger follower and fan base, to get more retailers to carry us and to do runway shows. In China, if all goes as we want to, we hope to open a flagship store in a mall. The market is pretty unstable so we are very careful with big decisions now. And I also hope to expand our bridal line to different countries worldwide!

    bag Cos

    photography Josefin Osis
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    hair and makeup Sandy Alfares
    model Stina / The Wonders

  • photography Campbell Addy
    image courtesy Jaguar

    The Movement Director Injecting Fashion with Dynamism, An Interview with Yagamoto

    Written by Maya Avram by Saffie

    If you are a fashion aficionado like me, few things excite you more than experiencing that fandom in new, imaginative ways. The rise of movement directors (or choreographers, for the uninitiated) over the past few years has reignited the industry’s appreciation for the kind of theatricality that made runway moments from the ‘90s and early ‘00s so iconic. From Shalom Harlow getting spray-painted by robots at Alexander McQueen’s 1999 presentation to Leon Dame’s angry stomp for Maison Margiela on the 2020 catwalk, it appears that the pendulum has swung back to fashion as performance — and we’re all better for it.

    One creative spearheading this shift is Abdourahman Njie, also known as Yagamoto. His emotive, cinematic campaigns — shaped by a background in performance art, modelling and his Senegalese-Gambian heritage — have brought a fresh sensibility to his collaborations with Pharrell Williams x Adidas, Louis Vuitton, Off-White and British Vogue, among others.
    Here, the multidisciplinary artist shares insights into his creative process, sources of inspiration and ambitions for the future.


    Maya Avram: You’re part of a growing cohort of choreographers who help design fashion’s narrative. How did you start your movement director journey?
    Yagamoto:
    My journey in movement started early on, when I was studying performance art in high school. That initial spark led me to explore the medium further in college, where I also experimented with method acting, physical theatre and improvisation. Eventually, I pivoted away from academia as I realised its structure didn’t align with my creative rhythm. Fortunately, soon after that I was scouted and signed by a modelling agency, which was a real turning point and reaffirmed my path in the creative industries.

    MA: Movement directors have become indispensable in fashion storytelling, transcending mediums. How do you adapt your work to different channels, from music videos to print editorials?
    Y:
    To answer that, I need to give context around how my methodology was formed.
    Early in my career I made a conscious decision to distance myself from the wider movement community, including my peers. This intentional isolation wasn’t out of disregard, but out of deep respect for the craft and a desire to develop a unique voice. I became highly selective about what I consumed, choosing not to follow others or compare paths so I could focus inward and develop my own methodology. Freeing up that space allowed me to root my perspective in intuition rather than external influence.
    The method that emerged is called MOTO, and it encourages artists to engage fully with every creative component on set — from the textures and materials of clothes to the nuances of hair and makeup to the atmosphere shaped by set design. It draws on character embodiment and incorporates elements of method acting to deepen presence and connection.
    And so, when creating ‘Impermanence’ with Campbell Addy for Miami Artweek, every element became a tool that shaped the character and constructed the narrative. It’s a holistic, intuitive approach to movement direction that transforms the set into a living, breathing extension of the performance.

    MA: Having worked both in front and behind the camera, which is your favourite?
    Y:
    Whether I’m directing or modelling, I’m happiest on set when there’s a real sense of creative harmony flowing through the production. It’s magical when every element — direction, client vision, lighting, hair and makeup, styling — aligns effortlessly.
    ‘Impermanence’ is the perfect example of that. It was created by a team of close friends and collaborators, each bringing their best and making the process feel organic and fluid. That dynamic fostered a lively atmosphere where art could thrive and the work truly came alive.

    MA: How do you prepare for a project? What does the creation process look like?
    Y:
    Research and response are the pillars of my process. Once I receive a creative brief, I study the vision. If needed, I dive deep into research, collecting visual references, exploring themes and movement languages that can help enrich the creative direction.
    When creating ‘Impermanence’, Campbell Addy and I were inspired by Jaguar’s transition into a new era, so we drew a lot of inspiration from reincarnation and rebirth. My goal is always to offer a thoughtful, informed response that not only aligns with the original concept, but also evolves it.

    MA: When working with talent, what do you look to get out of their performances? How do you create a common language with your team?
    Y:
    When meeting talent, my priority is to establish a warm, professional dynamic rooted in mutual respect and openness. From the outset, I make it clear that when working with me, they are stepping into a psychologically and creatively safe space. I am fully open to collaboration and committed to bringing out the best in them.
    That introduction helps trust form naturally, laying a solid foundation for confidence to grow. I emphasise that vulnerability is not just accepted, but encouraged, and there is no such thing as doing something “incorrectly.” Every choice, every movement is part of the process, and it’s in that freedom that authentic expression can truly emerge.

    MA: You have worked with some of the biggest names and brands in the business, from Naomi Campbell to Dior. What is your next dream project?
    Y:
    I’m a big believer in the magic of manifestation. Every job, every moment that’s found its way to me started as a quiet dream whispered to the universe, and, piece by piece, those dreams have become my reality. There’s an endless stream of visions still unfolding, but I like to keep them secret until they’re ready to bloom. The universe is always listening, and trust me — there’s an infinite wave of beauty, success and aligned purpose on the way. Stay tuned, the magic’s only just getting started.

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