• photography Sandra Myhrberg 

    fashion Ulrika Lundqvist 

    all clothing Saveja Awzel 

    Between the Thread: A Conversation with Saveja Awzel

    Written by Janae McIntosh

    Saveja first caught the eye of fashion around seven. Her mother, a fashion designer herself, inspired Saveja to fulfill the dream. A kid, Saveja would sneak into her mother’s workspace to use her sewing machine, loving the sound and feeling of stitching. Fashion became Saveja’s escape from reality, and through this creative, unique, and beautiful space she built, Saveja made her aspirations into existence. As her career grew, Saveja held onto the special feeling of endless possibilities and opportunity to spread a message beyond her work.
    “I didn’t just want to wear fashion, I wanted to create it, shape it, and give it meaning”.

    Janae: What’s the collection you are most proud of?
    Saveja: The collection I’m most proud of is called Lost On Silk Road. It’s a timeline frozen in textures and colors — a crossroads between modernity and tradition. The concept comes from tales about the Silk Road I heard as a child, now reimagined through the lens of my everyday life as a Scandinavian. The Silk Road, this meeting point of cultures and history, is more than just a metaphor — it’s my reality. I’m Uyghur, born in China, and a Swedish citizen.
    This collection is an inner journey — a return to my origins, but also a construction of a new identity that embraces all the cultures I represent. It’s deeply personal, yet globally resonant. Through design, I’ve created space for all parts of myself to exist and evolve.

    J: What is something you wish you knew earlier in your career?
    S: I wish I had understood sooner that clarity is power — especially in business. Creativity thrives with direction. As a designer, it’s easy to pour everything into the work and overlook structure, but building a brand requires both vision and systems. Once I leaned into that balance, things began to move with intention.

    J: What is one piece of advice you received that stuck with you and helped you grow as a fashion designer?
    S: When I was 15, one of my teachers told me: “Never say that you dream of achieving something — always see it as a goal, and you’re already one step closer.” That changed everything for me. It made me take myself seriously, even when others didn’t. It gave me the confidence to treat my ambitions not as fantasies, but as steps on a path I was already walking.

    J: How would you define your style?
    S: My style is paradoxical and sexy, with a hint of mystery. I’m drawn to contrasts — soft structure, refined boldness, the mix of old-world symbolism with modern silhouettes. I think there’s power in restraint, but also in unexpected detail. It’s not about being loud — it’s about being intentional. My work is rooted in culture and identity, but always seen through a contemporary lens

    J: Having moved to Sweden from China at the age of 18, what was the culture shock like? What stood out to you most about Swedish culture?
    S: Definitely the minimalistic aesthetic. When it comes to fashion, Sweden is quite the opposite of China. There are two distinct styles here: one very minimalistic — it can be just a pair of plain trousers and a T-shirt — while more fashionable people tend to go extreme, even cartoonish, with outfits that have so much detail.

    J: How does that experience inform your creative process? Where do you draw inspiration from?
    S: That has been interesting, it has given me, like, a lot of access to different inspiration. I’ve realised while creating my graduation collection that I make a lot of references to the cultures I have lived in. They make up my identity, both personally and professionally. In China, we deeply believe in symbolism; whether it be colours, the food you eat, even numbers and the weather, and that has been very interesting for me to put into my designs. The shape of a pocket or other small details allows me to put all the symbols into the clothing.

    J: Symbolism clearly plays an important role in your creative process. What other elements of Chinese culture have you tied into your designs?
    S: Symbolism for me, when I look back, is a lot of different things, from the food to the culture and the language; the characters I can write and read in Mandarin inspire me, seeing their shapes and how the Chinese symbols look.

    J: What are you excited about in the future? Is there anything you can share, exciting projects you’re currently working on?
    S: I’m launching my brand this autumn, which is very exciting. We’re starting with handbags, the production is all ready. So it’s super exciting. Other than that, I  started working for Alice Stanlouv, the Swedish influencer. We’re working on a rebrand, and we’re launching a whole new collection this fall as well. So I’m launching my own brand and her rebrand, too!

    photography Sandra Myhrberg
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    makeup and hair Elva Ahlbin
    model Luca Myhrberg

    all clothing Saveja Awzel

  • Socker Sucker: The Art of Swedish Fika

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Socker Sucker in central Stockholm has been a go-to destination for innovative and delicious pastries since opening its doors three years ago. Now, founders Frida Bäcke and Bedros Kabranian have collected a range of their recipes and step-by-step guides into a book, giving home bakers the tools to recreate their celebrated pastries at home. Odalisque sat down with the duo to talk about their inspirations and what they hope readers take away from the book.

    UL: What was the driving force behind writing Socker Sucker? Was there a particular moment of realization that made you want to share these recipes in a book?

    Bedros Kabranian: Not really, we got a great offer and it felt like there was space for it.

    Frida Bäcke: Exactly, and it also felt like a beautiful way to sum up our careers. We've been working for a long time, and this feels like the next chapter, to wrap it all up in a book in a nice way because we don’t really know what’s coming next.

    BK: Also, when this idea came up in the past, it didn’t feel like the right time. But now everything aligned, and it just felt right.

    UL: Many of these recipes have a luxurious twist. Can you give us an example of a classic pastry that you’ve reimagined in a surprising way?

    BK: Everything from the cinnamon bun, really, we changed the shape just to break the norm. It's super simple but just changing the form makes it into something else.

    FB: And the Napoleon is another classic that’s always been done a certain way, and that we’ve also reworked. It really represents both of us with its lamination, filling, and flavour. It’s definitely one of those classics we’ve reinvented. But we’ve also taken flavour inspiration from the classics.

    BK: We've said before that we break a classic down into its different flavour elements, and then rebuild it. A lot of our work comes from that approach. Everything, I’d say, is in some way reinterpreted from a classic.

    UL: You draw inspiration from global influences. Which international flavours or techniques have influenced your recipes the most?

    BK: For me, it’s the Middle East. That’s where my foundational palette is, along with the rest of the world. For you (Frida), it’s the forest and your childhood in Dalarna, picking things yourself, spruce tips, berries…

    FB: Yes, exactly. It becomes more of a blend between the two of us, and that makes it special in a way. Also, during the pandemic when we couldn’t travel, we pulled in flavours from other parts of the world. But we really work with ingredients when they’re at their seasonal best, wherever they happen to come from.

    UL: The book covers baked goods for every season, from Semlor to Christmas saffron buns. How did you approach balancing tradition with innovation in these beloved recipes?

    BK: It actually wasn’t too hard. We set some boundaries for ourselves so we wouldn’t stray too far. And once we were in it, it was about small adjustments like swapping raisins for cranberries. Not just for the sake of it, but because we think it adds a different effect and taste. We kept the Semla pretty classic, it’s a classic, after all.

    FB: It’s the little things we do, like toasting and refining ingredients in the best way.

    BK: Yes, instead of regular sugar you might use a different kind. Or instead of butter, browned butter. Seeds and flours can be toasted. It’s those kinds of things.

    FB: It feels more thoughtful. Considering today’s ingredient shortages, it seems like a shame to waste good ingredients. We want to really care for what we have.

    BK: We’re always respecting the original. We're not butchering The Classic, we’re elevating it. And sometimes adding a flavour twist or a visual twist.

    UL: Step-by-step guides are a key feature of Socker Sucker. Which techniques do you think home bakers will find most useful or most challenging?

    BK: Lining a tart shell. I think that’s something many struggle with.

    FB: Exactly, you cut it into strips and stamp it out.

    BK: And just having someone show you, that’ll be an aha moment for many.

    FB: Yes, like not pressing it all the way down.

    BK: Right, because you’ve done that your whole life. And then it cracks and looks bad. Just thinking a bit differently makes a huge difference. And chocolate lamination, of course.

    FB: Yes, chocolate lamination. We actually put the hardest ones at the beginning of the book to try and show them clearly.

    BK: There’s already a lot out there, but showing readers that we ourselves do it this way and get these results, I think that matters.

    UL: Your professional backgrounds and competition experience clearly show in your expertise. Are there any secrets or pro tips in the book that most home bakers wouldn’t usually have access to?

    FB: Oh, I feel like the whole book is full of that kind of candy, really.

    BK: Right at the beginning, we’ve got a section with tips on everything from liquids to temperatures, and how to think about small details. But each individual recipe also has tips that are second nature to us but might be crucial. Everything from proofing to contact loading.

    When I started working in the industry, so many times I had those “aha” moments, like, “of course, why didn’t I do it this way before?” Because you’re stuck in your habits. I think just seeing a different way opens up your thinking.

    FB: Exactly. And we’re still learning those things all the time. That’s why this profession is so fun. You keep discovering things. This book represents how far we’ve come now—and there will be more.

    BK: Volume one.

    UL: Precision and perfection seem to be hallmarks of Socker Sucker’s baking. What small details make a big difference in achieving bakery-quality results at home?

    FB: Read everything through first, have a plan. Don’t decide to make an entire cake in one day, plan it out. Maybe make the fillings and interiors on Tuesday, the sponge on Wednesday, assemble on Thursday, and glaze it on Friday. Planning your bake makes it much more enjoyable, instead of cramming it all into one day.

    BK: With buns and things like that, make a sugar syrup and follow the recipe. It’s not always obvious where to brush with egg wash. Don’t overdo it unnecessarily. Some people use both egg wash and sugar syrup, it becomes redundant.

    UL: For someone attempting one of your more advanced pastries like mille-feuille or croissants, what advice would you give to ensure success?

    BK: Start smaller. That way, you stay in control of the dough and butter. Clear out space in your fridge and freezer so you can pop the dough in and out. It’s hard to say “go by feel,” but if something gets too soft or warm just get it back in the fridge. Take it out 10–15–20 minutes later when it's manageable. Also, butter warmer than dough is preferred. That way the dough affects the butter, giving you a larger window to work in than when everything is at perfect temperature which actually makes it harder.

    UL: If a reader could try just one recipe from the book first, which one would you recommend and why?

    FB: I’d probably go for the Hallongrotta or Hasselnötsdrömmen.

    BK: Yes, they’re popular classics, everyone loves them. They’re likely to turn out well, so they’re very rewarding. But I’d also recommend the creams, sauces, and caramels, those things people often shy away from. I really like that stuff. The candy in general is rewarding to make.

    FB: The apple pie too, if you nail that, you’ll feel a bit proud afterwards.

    BK: Yes, and sure, it’s a bit of a pain and tricky, but it’s very impactful.

    UL: Was there a particular recipe in the book that took extra effort to perfect? Any unexpected challenges during development?

    BK: Well, we made seasonal products out of season, which was a bit odd.

    FB: Mentally it was weird, standing there doing summer in autumn, I think.

    BK: Yes, and we had to work in smaller batches, which we’re not used to. But it was good, because it gave us a sense of what it’s like for home bakers. Normally, we work with 20, 30, 40 kg of dough, this time we did 2 kg. That’s a huge difference, even with fillings and so on.

    UL: How did you ensure that the recipes work just as well for ambitious home bakers as for professionals?

    FB: That’s where the small test batches came in. You realize what’s hard to do or hard to source at home.

    BK: I wouldn’t say the ingredients we use are only available to professionals, most things are accessible. In some cases, we’ve included alternatives if you can’t find or don’t want something. The environment, your kitchen, oven, etc, that’s going to be the real variable. You’ll have to figure that part out. But we encourage people to just try. It takes time to get to know your kitchen. You’re comfortable in your own kitchen, but new recipes are designed for a different one. You have to keep that in mind.

    FB: We really hope people play with our recipes too. Maybe take one part from one recipe and mix it with something else.

    BK: That’s really the idea behind the book. We do things our way and that’s great, but it’s even more fun if someone takes a cream from here, a base from there, a topping from somewhere else, and creates something new with it. Let your imagination run wild with the help of the book.

    FB: There are so many great basics in here that people can build on. That’s how we’ll keep working, building and developing.

    BK: We always start from a base. We work smart. We don’t reinvent the wheel every time we create something new, we go back to what works, then build on it. So it’s good to have a foundation.

    FB: This book is really a base and a bible of foundational recipes. There’s so much in here.

    Socker Sucker: The Art of Swedish Fika is available in stores and online, and if you get the chance, be sure to stop by Socker Sucker in Stockholm for a delicious treat.

  • photography James Cochrane

    An interview with TG Botanical on their SS26 collection

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    With ruching that mimics the curl of petals and silhouettes sculpted like growing vines, TG Botanical’s SS26 collection is a study in organic form and quiet transformation. Inspired by gardens, soil, and the sensation of life returning, each piece carries the tactile poetry of nature. Founder Tetyana Chumak describes the collection as a ‘garden of awakening’, where sensual textures, earthy tones, and experimental techniques take center stage. In conversation with Odalisque, she reveals how beauty, even in chaos, becomes a kind of resistance.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Please tell us about the process in creating the SS26 presentation?

    Tetyana Chumak: The preparation process this season was especially complex and emotionally charged. Our creative team works from different corners of the world, mostly online, while all production is based in Kyiv, where airstrikes continue. This creates a constant background of anxiety and stress. And yet, we continue to experiment and search for new forms of expression. For example, during the development of this collection, a new signature technique emerged — an elastic thread ruching that creates organic, sculptural textures. It was born in chaos: something that worked perfectly yesterday may fall apart today due to fatigue or emotional strain. Still, we move forward. This is the essence of TG Botanical — growth, even in the face of instability.

    UL: How did you choose the location for the presentation?

    TC: At the core of TG Botanical’s identity lies earth, plants, and life. It’s about connection to nature and inner stillness. That’s why, when presenting in Copenhagen during the summer, we always choose open-air, natural surroundings. We want to show clothing among trees, grass, living light, and the breath of the earth. It’s essential to us that everything — the space, the atmosphere — amplifies the meaning of the collection.

    UL: What does the SS26 collection represent and what was the main inspiration for this collection?

    TC: SS26 is a garden of awakening. The collection speaks to an inner blooming — the moment when one feels life returning within. In this context, spring is not just a season, but a state of being. We drew inspiration from gardens, plants, berries, soil textures, and the softness of petals. It’s about returning to oneself, to natural sensuality, to a kind of beauty that grows from within.

    UL: What was the biggest challenge creating your SS26 collection?

    TC: The biggest challenge was continuing to create while everything around us remained uncertain and filled with anxiety. There were moments when it felt like the show wouldn’t happen at all — I wasn’t in Ukraine at the time and felt helpless, while still carrying full responsibility for the team and creative direction. It’s incredibly hard to make something beautiful when you don’t know what tomorrow brings. But in those very moments, creativity becomes a means of survival — a way to tell the world: we are still here.

    UL: How would you describe the TG Botanical customer?

    TC: Our customer seeks depth, aesthetics, and a connection to nature. This is someone who feels. Someone who chooses not just garments, but a state of being. They care about how things are made, from what, and the journey each piece has taken. They are attentive — to detail, to themselves, and to the world around them.

    UL: What can we expect from TG Botanical in the future?

    TC: Magic. We believe in the power of beauty, even in the most difficult times. We will continue to explore new shapes, techniques, and materials — always staying true to ourselves, to nature, and to the values we hold dear.

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