• producer Anna Mikaela Ekstrand
    photography Milan Lazovski
    fashion Chardonnay Taylor
    makeup Kitty Quinn
    hair Yetunde Egunjobi
    stylist assistant Sal Sallie
    image courtesy of the artist

    Two New York Feminists Discuss Their Booth at Future Fair

    Written by Anna Mikaela Ekstrand by Zohra Vanlerberghe

    New Yorkers, whether they are born or bred, are a certain kind of breed. They know what they want and are not afraid to go get it. For those in the creative sphere, this means a work and life that is curated, full of collaboration, and where art often spills into personhood—Lesley Bodzy, is no exception, exceptionally chic (we love the photos that accompany this piece), she always looks impeccable and put together, with Jackie O as her ultimate inspiration. “What can I say, I love style,” she told me on the phone while we were discussing this Odalisque feature. Her sculptural work tackles themes of youth, beauty, time, and aging with deft, subtlety, and humor through material exploration, incorporating materials as diverse as latex, meat hooks, ribbons, acrylic paint pours, paper bags, bronze, glitter, and resin. It is daring to uncover societal pressures, fears, and hopes head-on and to dismantle what she calls the ‘artifice’—our second skin. Erica Criss, an artist and curator, has found her livelihood in supporting artists through her consultancy Criss Collaborations, and is showing Bodzy’s work during New York’s Art Week in May..

    Criss has curated more than thirty exhibitions, of which three were with Bodzy. Both are unapologetically feminist. I invited them to discuss their newest show that will be opening on May 7th at Future Fair.

    Lesley Bodzy: Someone asked me how I came up with curating my work on multiple levels, eye level, above-head, and on the floor. This is really something that curators have led me to do. Including you, Erica. I see the role of the curator as enhancing my work and bringing it to the public eye in ways I can not even imagine. I think you should tell Odalisque’s readers more about your curatorial vision for Future Fair and how you think about curating, because it is very interesting.

    Erica Criss: My vision for Future Fair is to continue the conversation that was started last year between you and Katie Commodore in Womanhood 102—titled like a university class. You have both been hard at work creating new pieces, and I’m excited to debut several of them at the fair. I love how your works speak to each other. When curating a show like this, or any show really, I am considering the space, the artworks, and the audience. I am always thinking about how I can activate the space, how the works play off of each other, and what is going to draw people in. It is kind of like thinking of the exhibition as an artwork itself. I paired you as artists who both explore vulnerabilities from a place of strength. You both approach your subject matter boldly and make interesting use of your materials. Commodore’s meticulous peyote stitching and your free ideation of latex and resin, in new ways, made for an interesting contrast. What I didn’t expect was Commodore’s work, which is overtly sexual, bringing more covert aspects out of your own. Can you speak about the overt and covert nature of your work and its material?  

    LB: My work is about aging and its effect on female beauty and sexuality. The latex works are wrinkled and deflating, yet still beautiful and compelling. As we age, women should still be considered attractive and desirable—that is, both the covert and the overt message. I think of myself as two-faced, my real self and my artifice, the latter are the more performative aspects of who I am. Women are encouraged more than men to develop their artifice, but men can hace very sophisticated ones too. How long have we worked together? And how many exhibitions of my work have you curated?

    EC: We were just talking about this the other day and couldn’t believe we’ve been working together for three years. Including Future Fair, I have curated three exhibitions with you. However, we have collaborated on over thirty exhibitions. So much goes into curating a show; it is not just about choosing the artworks. We work together on everything from digital marketing and installation logistics to graphic design.

    LB: Yes. You have supported so many artists. From your time at Manhattan Graphics Center as director of operations and chief curator, and at Kent State University, where you curated The Women’s Printmaking Invitational 2022 with over 100 artworks, and now your independent curatorial work. The world is always changing, as is the art world—what do you think artists need right now?

    EC: The art world is always changing, but what hasn’t changed is the artists’ need for support. I am also an artist and received an MFA from KSU. Having both experiences, as an artist and art administrator, I realized that the majority of artists do not think of their practice as a business. Traditionally, galleries handle all of the artist's “business needs” like online presence, artist statements, marketing, sales, and more. The competition for gallery representation (and opportunities in general) is so oversaturated that the artist now has to be their own business to compete. This is one of the main reasons I started Criss Collaborations—to offer individual artists all of the services a gallery would offer, plus more.

    LB: Why did you decide to curate another feminist show? We have spoken about feminism at length together, and I think readers need to hear your opinion. How do you define your own feminism?

    EC For myself, feminism is about recognizing women for their talents, uplifting the female voice, and redefining narratives to fit the female perspective. It is also about just being true to yourself. Last year, I showed you and Katie together for the first time in Womanhood 102. When I started that show, I felt a little scared at first because your work was so different visually. I wasn’t sure I’d be able to make the connections for the audience. But the more I spoke with both of you, the more I realized you were tackling the same overarching issues through different lenses. The show was so powerful, in both its installation and messaging, that I wanted to give more breath to it, and Future Fair is an amazing opportunity to continue the conversation. This is our second fair. Our first was the SPRING/BREAK Art Show, Naked Lunch, where you showed your golden paint pours. You worked on them while you were doing your MFA at the Art Institute of Chicago. When you started there, you were mostly painting—how did you get to where you are now? To the paint pours, bronze, balloons, and sculptural work? 

    LB: For Naked Lunch, we re-imagined Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe, it was fun and cheeky—I enjoy working with you. On my shift to sculpture, I became interested in the plasticity of paint. I wanted to see if paint could become sculptural if taken off the support of the canvas. The works you showed were gold paint skins created by pouring paint onto plastic and then manipulating it into a sculpture.  That led to pouring paint onto latex to see what would result. These new works are more fixed, and they took on unusual shapes akin to sea slugs or biomorphic creatures that inhabit the abyss. 

    EC: Womanhood 102 is about rebelling against contradictory societal norms placed on women, this is encapsulated by a quote from Camille Rainville’s 2017 poem Be a Lady They Said: “You look so old. Look young. Look youthful. Look ageless. Don’t get old. Women don’t get old. Old is ugly. Men don’t like ugly.” I included this together with Jamaica Kincaid’s “Girl” from 1978 as supplemental reading for the show. That said, we are stronger together. Could you speak a little bit about mentorship and collaboration in your education and work? 

    LB: I learned the value of critique when I went back to school for my MFA. Since graduating from the Art Institute of Chicago in 2021, I have continued to seek critique from curators, gallerists, and fellow artists. For example, you have helped move my work along by critiquing it and offering ideas for display. In addition, I have had some great mentorship from Professor Giovanni Aloi, gallerists Yvonamor Palix, Michael David, and curators Anna Mkaela Ekstrand, Daniel Gadd,  Rose Nestler and Abbie Knight.

    EC: Right back at you.. My work has grown from our collaborations. You often say that you have experienced multiple waves of feminism. Are you a feminist, and can you speak more to what that has meant in your life and what it means today?

    LB: Well, yes, and I think it is uncommon today to be a woman who is not a feminist. There are so many professions open to women now compared to forty years ago. Women have the opportunity to self-realize. Maternity leave is a very important factor that has allowed women to have a family and also to have a career. Previously, women had to choose between them or face a much harder road to succeed at both. When I work, I am mostly engrossed with the materials I am working with and the process of experimentation or manipulation. On the one hand, I keep on trying to move away from making work about the female experience and the artifice, but when I am in the studio creating a new series, I find that these themes always draw me back. There is so much to be said and felt, much that also speaks to the universal human experience.

    Don’t miss Lesley Bodzy’s work in the Criss Collaborations booth at Future Fair has its VIP opening on May 7th and is open to the public May 8-10, 2025, in Chelsea Industrial, 535 West 28th Street, New York. Follow @lbodzy for updates.

    Lesley Bodzy, Soft Embrace, 2022, acrylic, 45 x 26 x 20 inches
    image courtesy of Criss Collaborations
    Lesley Bodzy, Imminent absquatulation, 2025, latex, foam, acrylic pigments, 20 x 20 x 12 inches
    image courtesy of Criss Collaborations
    Katie Commodore, Kelly and Rodrigo, 2024, mixed media on digitally woven tapestry, 50 x 55 inches
    image courtesy of Criss Collaborations
    Lesley Bodzy, Halcyon vertigo, 2024, latex, resin, acrylic pigments, 48 x 27 x 3 inches 
    image courtesy of Criss Collaborations
    Lesley Bodzy, Indelible sagacity, 2025, latex, resin, acrylic pigments, 35 x 35 x 16 inches 
    image courtesy of Criss Collaborations
    producer Anna Mikaela Ekstrand
    photography Milan Lazovski
    fashion Chardonnay Taylor
    makeup Kitty Quinn
    hair Yetunde Egunjobi
    stylist assistant Sal Sallie
    image courtesy of Criss Collaborations
  • Interview with Filippa Burenstam Linder, Creative Director Mateus

    Written by Yasmine Mubarak

    Filippa Burenstam Linder is the creative director of the porcelain company Mateus, a 30 years old brand with inspiration from Swedish design and Portuguese craftsmanship. Together with her mother Teresa Mateus Lundahl (who founded the company), they are a driving force in the porcelain industry. They are dedicated in creating colorful tables around the world, with a strong inspiration taken from the fashion world, but also love for family gatherings. Odalisque had a quick talk with the Creative Director, to ask a few questions for the spring and summer festivities.

    Tell me about your inspiration and love for Mateus.
    Mateus is truly part of my DNA. My mother founded the company when I was just seven years old, so it’s deeply woven into my childhood. I have so many memories of accompanying her to the factories and helping pack orders in our basement, which at the time served as our warehouse. When I was nine, I gave her a drawing of a plate for her birthday. She loved the idea and decided to produce it, with a few tweaks, of course. That became my very first design for Mateus.

    What are your inspirations for the brand, currently and for the future?
    What inspires me most is our customers. I feel incredibly proud when I meet someone who’s been collecting Mateus for years, adding new pieces over time - or when someone inherits pieces and wants to continue building their own collection. That kind of loyalty and connection to the brand is both humbling and motivating.

    How did your own passion for design start?
    I think I was born into it! Design has always been a part of my life. Even as a child, I was constantly rearranging my room - probably every other week. I’ve always had a love for aesthetics and how they shape our surroundings.

    The Mateus brand is introduced as Swedish Design meets Portuguese craftsmanship, tell me a bit more about that merge. My mother was born and raised in Lisbon and moved to Sweden when she met my father, so Portugal has always been close to our hearts. The country has a rich heritage in ceramics, and from the start, it made perfect sense to bring together Portuguese craftsmanship with the simplicity and elegance of Swedish design. That combination defines Mateus.

    What are your hopes for people buying Mateus items?
    That they’ll love and cherish them for many years. Our collection is extensive, we have around 700 unique items, and we rarely discontinue products. That means customers can start a collection and continue to build on it over time, knowing they can always find complementary pieces.

    What do spring/summer 2025 look like for you personally?
    Fashion-wise, I’m a denim girl - I love a good Canadian tuxedo. When it comes to table settings, I’m all about color. I prefer bold tones like blue, red, and yellow over pastels. For me, vibrant colors really bring a table to life.

    Last question, tell me about your latest collaboration with Sam Baron. How did it start, how did you found each other? 
    We first met in 2017, when we invited Sam and Costas to design a collection for our 25th anniversary. Since then, we have stayed in touch, thanks in part to Sam’s residency in Portugal and our encounters at international design fairs. Coincidentally, my mother and Sam also goes to the same tea shop in Lisbon! When we decided to incorporate patterns in a modern and intriguing way, Sam was the natural choice. Read Odalisque's interview with Sam Baron here.

    .Images: Mateus

  • photography Horst P. Horst courtesy of V&A Press Office

    Cartier’s New V&A Exhibition is a World-Encompassing Celebration of Craft

    Written by Maya Avram by Nicole Miller

    It’s been nearly 30 years since Cartier has had its own dedicated exhibition in London — a surprising fact considering the English capital is one of the jeweller’s three foundational cities, along with Paris and New York. And so the opening of Cartier’s titular show at the Victoria and Albert Museum last week marked a homecoming, of sorts. “The V&A and Cartier were established only five years apart,” said Dr Tristran Hunt, the museum’s director, at a press view last week. “[Founder] Louis-François Cartier, his three grandsons and the founders of this museum all shared an ambition to elevate craftsmanship and design to the realm of art, transcending mere utility for enduring artistic legacy.” This, Dr Hunt notes, was made possible by prioritising transatlantic partnerships.

    Curated in partnership with Cartier (and the generous support of the Royal Family, who contributed pieces from their private collection), the space showcases 350 beguiling pieces that tell a story of cultural exchange, innovation and of active participation in — rather than merely observation of — societal trends. From the Garland-style Scroll Tiara, commissioned in 1902 and worn for the coronation of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, and later donned by Rihanna on the cover of W magazine in 2016, to the Tank watch originally owned by Jackie Kennedy and later acquired by Kim Kardashian, the collection weaves together eras, empires, and individuals to humanise Cartier’s storied history and underscore its enduring cultural relevance.

    The Cartier brothers’ global vision drove them to forge meaningful relationships with royals, socialites, thought-leaders and other influential figures from around the world throughout the early 20th century, crystallising the entrepreneurial spirit that underpins the brand’s ethos to this day. These connections fostered the kind of cultural exchanges that shaped the Maison’s design process, which is progressive yet grounded in the artistic heritage of its discerning clientele.

    Those values allow Cartier to evolve in step with society, as asserts the brand’s motto: “Always innovate, never imitate.” It reflects the jeweller’s deep-rooted respect for international culture and its celebration of the rich artistic heritage of places like Egypt, India and China. These have inspired its most iconic geometric, colourful and boldly modern styles — most notably, the Art Deco works, shown here in all their glittering glory.

    One thing that we are very proud to have done in this exhibition,” said Rachel Garrahan, co-curator of the exhibition alongside Helen Molesworth, “is leading a fil rouge of London through the story of Cartier, where we see highlights that include jewels from the Royal Family.” From coronation tiaras from the 1930s (never as many made before or since by the brand) to Tank watches from Swinging Sixties London, Cartier’s savoir-faire has shaped British culture in every turn.

    This is a display of brilliance, both literal and metaphorical. 10 years in the making, the show offers insight and context for the influential power that is Cartier. Each piece reflects not only craftsmanship, but the lives and moments that made it matter, bringing Cartier’s legacy into sharp, human focus.

    The exhibition Cartier runs at V&A South Kensington from 12 April 2025 – 16 November 2025.
     

    images courtesy of V&A Press Office

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