• photography Campbell Addy
    image courtesy Jaguar

    The Movement Director Injecting Fashion with Dynamism, An Interview with Yagamoto

    Written by Maya Avram by Saffie

    If you are a fashion aficionado like me, few things excite you more than experiencing that fandom in new, imaginative ways. The rise of movement directors (or choreographers, for the uninitiated) over the past few years has reignited the industry’s appreciation for the kind of theatricality that made runway moments from the ‘90s and early ‘00s so iconic. From Shalom Harlow getting spray-painted by robots at Alexander McQueen’s 1999 presentation to Leon Dame’s angry stomp for Maison Margiela on the 2020 catwalk, it appears that the pendulum has swung back to fashion as performance — and we’re all better for it.

    One creative spearheading this shift is Abdourahman Njie, also known as Yagamoto. His emotive, cinematic campaigns — shaped by a background in performance art, modelling and his Senegalese-Gambian heritage — have brought a fresh sensibility to his collaborations with Pharrell Williams x Adidas, Louis Vuitton, Off-White and British Vogue, among others.
    Here, the multidisciplinary artist shares insights into his creative process, sources of inspiration and ambitions for the future.


    Maya Avram: You’re part of a growing cohort of choreographers who help design fashion’s narrative. How did you start your movement director journey?
    Yagamoto:
    My journey in movement started early on, when I was studying performance art in high school. That initial spark led me to explore the medium further in college, where I also experimented with method acting, physical theatre and improvisation. Eventually, I pivoted away from academia as I realised its structure didn’t align with my creative rhythm. Fortunately, soon after that I was scouted and signed by a modelling agency, which was a real turning point and reaffirmed my path in the creative industries.

    MA: Movement directors have become indispensable in fashion storytelling, transcending mediums. How do you adapt your work to different channels, from music videos to print editorials?
    Y:
    To answer that, I need to give context around how my methodology was formed.
    Early in my career I made a conscious decision to distance myself from the wider movement community, including my peers. This intentional isolation wasn’t out of disregard, but out of deep respect for the craft and a desire to develop a unique voice. I became highly selective about what I consumed, choosing not to follow others or compare paths so I could focus inward and develop my own methodology. Freeing up that space allowed me to root my perspective in intuition rather than external influence.
    The method that emerged is called MOTO, and it encourages artists to engage fully with every creative component on set — from the textures and materials of clothes to the nuances of hair and makeup to the atmosphere shaped by set design. It draws on character embodiment and incorporates elements of method acting to deepen presence and connection.
    And so, when creating ‘Impermanence’ with Campbell Addy for Miami Artweek, every element became a tool that shaped the character and constructed the narrative. It’s a holistic, intuitive approach to movement direction that transforms the set into a living, breathing extension of the performance.

    MA: Having worked both in front and behind the camera, which is your favourite?
    Y:
    Whether I’m directing or modelling, I’m happiest on set when there’s a real sense of creative harmony flowing through the production. It’s magical when every element — direction, client vision, lighting, hair and makeup, styling — aligns effortlessly.
    ‘Impermanence’ is the perfect example of that. It was created by a team of close friends and collaborators, each bringing their best and making the process feel organic and fluid. That dynamic fostered a lively atmosphere where art could thrive and the work truly came alive.

    MA: How do you prepare for a project? What does the creation process look like?
    Y:
    Research and response are the pillars of my process. Once I receive a creative brief, I study the vision. If needed, I dive deep into research, collecting visual references, exploring themes and movement languages that can help enrich the creative direction.
    When creating ‘Impermanence’, Campbell Addy and I were inspired by Jaguar’s transition into a new era, so we drew a lot of inspiration from reincarnation and rebirth. My goal is always to offer a thoughtful, informed response that not only aligns with the original concept, but also evolves it.

    MA: When working with talent, what do you look to get out of their performances? How do you create a common language with your team?
    Y:
    When meeting talent, my priority is to establish a warm, professional dynamic rooted in mutual respect and openness. From the outset, I make it clear that when working with me, they are stepping into a psychologically and creatively safe space. I am fully open to collaboration and committed to bringing out the best in them.
    That introduction helps trust form naturally, laying a solid foundation for confidence to grow. I emphasise that vulnerability is not just accepted, but encouraged, and there is no such thing as doing something “incorrectly.” Every choice, every movement is part of the process, and it’s in that freedom that authentic expression can truly emerge.

    MA: You have worked with some of the biggest names and brands in the business, from Naomi Campbell to Dior. What is your next dream project?
    Y:
    I’m a big believer in the magic of manifestation. Every job, every moment that’s found its way to me started as a quiet dream whispered to the universe, and, piece by piece, those dreams have become my reality. There’s an endless stream of visions still unfolding, but I like to keep them secret until they’re ready to bloom. The universe is always listening, and trust me — there’s an infinite wave of beauty, success and aligned purpose on the way. Stay tuned, the magic’s only just getting started.

  • photography Ninja Hanna
    text Natalia Muntean
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist

    dress Søren Le Schmidt
    stockings Calzedonia
    boots Flattered

    White Cliffs of Dover, an Interview with Søren Le Schmidts

    Written by Natalia Muntean by Zohra Vanlerberghe

    “I see clothing as structures for the body,” says Søren Le Schmidt, the Danish designer whose sharp, minimalist designs have graced red carpets, royal events, and even Tivoli’s candy-wrapper-clad mannequins. Known for his ability to blend old-school tailoring with futuristic flair, Schmidt is as much a storyteller as he is a designer. “I love breaking apart tradition and giving it a modern edge,” he admits, and it’s this fearless approach that has made him a standout in the fashion world. From dressing Queen Mary of Denmark to championing sustainability through upcycling and on-demand production, Schmidt’s work is a masterclass in balancing innovation with responsibility. In this interview, he reveals the inspiration behind his latest collection, his dream of designing for the Met Gala, and why, despite his glamorous career, he’s happiest at home with his family, sketching new ideas.

    Natalia Muntean: What was the inspiration behind your latest collection, and how does it reflect your evolution as a designer? Are there any specific pieces or themes you’re particularly proud of?
    Søren Le Schmidt: My latest collection is inspired by architecture and the structured design language I always work with. This time, I focused even more on contrasts: between tailoring and organic shapes, between the classic and the futuristic. I’m particularly proud of the new silhouettes, where I play with sharp lines while creating more movement in the garments.

    NM: Your designs blend old-school tailoring with subcultural references and an edgy touch, while also drawing inspiration from architecture. How do you balance tradition, innovation, and architectural influences in your collections?
    SLS: I’m trained as a tailor, so craftsmanship is my foundation. But I love challenging it and breaking it apart - that’s where my fascination with architecture comes in. I see clothing as structures for the body, and I work a lot with sharp, graphic lines. Innovation comes from taking the traditional and giving it a modern edge, like mixing classic suits with asymmetric cuts or unconventional materials.

    NM: Your work emphasises gender fluidity and cultural diversity. How do you ensure your collections resonate with a wide audience while staying true to your vision?
    SLS: For me, it’s not about designing for a specific gender but about creating clothing that makes people feel strong and allows them to express their identity. I focus on androgynous cuts and universal shapes that don’t dictate who should wear them. It’s important that my designs can be worn by anyone, regardless of gender, age, or background.

    NM: Sustainability is a core focus for your brand. Can you share some challenges you’ve faced in sourcing 100% sustainable fabrics, and how does on-demand manufacturing help reduce waste? What advice would you give to emerging designers who want to prioritise sustainability?
    SLS: Finding 100% sustainable materials that still have the quality and structure I want is a huge challenge. Many sustainable fabrics aren’t yet on the same level as traditional materials, but the industry is moving in the right direction. On-demand production means I only produce what is sold, eliminating overproduction. My advice to new designers: is to start by thinking about how to create less waste - smaller collections, fewer but better materials, and designs that stand the test of time.

    NM: You’ve worked on projects like the Røde Kors “kaffebordsbog” to promote upcycling. How do you see the role of upcycling in the future of fashion, and how can it inspire broader industry change?
    SLS: Upcycling is one of the most important solutions to fashion’s waste problem. I love taking old materials and giving them new life—it’s a way to create something unique while being responsible. If more brands start seeing leftover materials as a resource instead of waste, it could change how we produce fashion entirely.

    NM: How do you decide which projects or collaborations to take on, and what makes a partnership successful for you?
    SLS: For me, the most important thing is that a collaboration makes sense both aesthetically and value-wise. I only say yes to projects where I feel I can contribute something unique while also learning something new. A good partner shares my values of quality and sustainability but also gives me creative freedom.

    NM: You’ve designed for royalty and red-carpet events. How do you approach creating pieces for such high-profile occasions while maintaining your signature style? What’s the most memorable design you’ve created, and what made it special?
    SLS: When designing for royalty or red-carpet events, it’s all about finding the balance between elegance and edge. My most memorable design has to be the dress for Queen Mary. It was such an honour to dress such an iconic figure. I wanted to stay true to my minimalist design language while creating something timeless and majestic.

    NM: How do you balance your roles as a designer, TV personality, and commentator? Do these roles influence each other, and how has your TV experience impacted your work in fashion?
    SLS: TV has given me a platform to talk about fashion in a more accessible way. I like combining the creative and the communicative, so I don’t see my roles as separate but as part of a bigger storytelling about design and aesthetics.

    NM: What was the transition from working for other brands to launching your own label in 2018?
    SLS: It was incredibly exciting but also really tough. Running your own business means you have to think about everything—from design to production to finances. But it also gave me the freedom to create exactly the universe I wanted.

    NM: If you weren’t a fashion designer, what career path do you think you would have pursued?
    SLS: Definitely something creative—maybe architecture or graphic design. I’ve always been fascinated by shaping forms, whether it’s in clothing or buildings.

    NM: What’s one thing people might be surprised to learn about you?
    SLS: I’m actually quite introverted, even though I appear very outgoing in my work. I love being social, but I recharge when I’m alone with my wife and kids and can fully immerse myself in design.

    NM: If you could design for any event or person in the world, what would it be and why?
    SLS: The Met Gala would be a dream - it’s one of the few places where fashion is truly seen as art. I’d love to create something sculptural and futuristic, playing with proportions.

    NM: What’s next for Søren Le Schmidt? Are there any new projects or collections you’re particularly excited about?
    SLS: I’m working on a new show where I’m diving even deeper into craftsmanship. I also have some exciting collaborations coming up, but you’ll have to wait a little longer to hear more!

    dress Søren Le Schmidt
    Marcus
    jacket Søren Le Schmidt
    stockings Calzedonia

    Sara
    jacket and skirt Søren Le Schmidt
    stockings Swedish Stockings
    Marcus
    jacket and trousers Søren Le Schmidt
    shoes Myrqvist

    Sara
    dress Søren Le Schmidt
    shoes STAND STUDIO
    dress Søren Le Schmidt
    total look Søren Le Schmidt
    shoes Myrqvist
    dress Søren Le Schmidt
    dress Søren Le Schmidt
    dress Søren Le Schmidt
    shoes STAND STUDIO
    Sara
    jacket and skirt Søren Le Schmidt
    stockings Swedish Stockings
    shoes G.H.Bass

    Marcus
    jacket Søren Le Schmidt
    stockings Calzedonia
    shoes Myrqvist
    trousers Søren Le Schmidt
    socks CDLP
    shoes Myrqvist
    total look Søren Le Schmidt
    dress Søren Le Schmidt
    text Natalia Muntean
    photography Ninja Hanna
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    makeup Johanna Larsson
    hair Tony Lundström /MIKAs LOOKs using Oribe and GHD
    models Sara S. /MIKAs and Marcus T. /Nisch Management
    photography assistant Vera Jörgensen
    fashion assistant Beatrice Kaiser
    special thanks to Sturehovs Slott
  • Naliyah wears Josef sandals and Zikai wears Raine sandals
    photography Julia Sixtensson

    Step Into Summer: A City Story in Sandals

    Written by Sandra Myhrberg by Zohra Vanlerberghe

    Dr. Martens steps into SS25 with a sandals collection built for movement, through city streets, summer memories, and everyday moments. Drawing from over three decades of archive design, the new range revives key elements like contrast stitching and platform soles rooted in unmistakable DM’s DNA.

    To explore how these sandals live in real life, we linked up with Stockholm-based artists Naliyah and Zikai, two creatives who know their city’s rhythm by heart. Naliyah takes us to Nytorget and Gamla Stan, two places full of personal meaning, from stillness found near her studio to memories of ferry rides to her family’s summer place. For Zikai, it’s all about the laid-back pull of Reimersholme, Långholmen, and Skinnarviksberget, places layered with nostalgia, community, and the kind of summer energy that lingers.
    Together, they show us how the right sandals don’t just carry you, they carry the story of where you’ve been, and where you’re going.

    Sandra Myhrberg: What does a perfect summer day in Stockholm look like for you, and how do your favourite spots reflect that vibe?
    Naliyah:
    A perfect summer day in Stockholm? Just good people, good food, and not having to rush anywhere. I love sharing a meal with family or friends somewhere nice, outside if the weather lets us. I don’t need much more than that.
    Zikai: Waking up at 11 am with no plans, grabbing an overpriced coffee, and meeting some friends by Reimersholme or Långholmen. Then we just stay there for an unreasonably long time. Then repeat.

    SM: You’ve both chosen locations that are full of character. What makes these places meaningful or inspiring to you personally?
    N:
    London taught me how to stretch time and find stillness in movement. Nytorget reminds me of that. It holds the same frequency. It’s not just where the studio is, it’s where my thoughts settle. Gamla Stan takes me back to childhood. I used to catch the local boat from there to my family’s summer place. Some things just stay with you.
    Z: I chose those locations because they bring back memories from summers during my teenage years. I had friends living in the area, and we were always up to whatever. Even though time passes, I still come back here every summer. Whether I like it or not, I kind of have to my friends aren’t going anywhere.

    SM: How would you describe your style during the warmer months, and how do Dr. Martens sandals fit into that?
    N:
    Tight top, parachute pants, clean accessories. An oversized hoodie for late summer nights. Simple, but it says enough. The Dr. Martens sandals give the finishing touch.
    Z: I do love a little toe moment- especially during July and August when I set up camp anywhere there’s water. Day to day, I like to keep it simple with a tank top, shorts and a few accessories. What I like about Dr. Martens sandals is how they make a chill budget outfit hit different.

    SM: When exploring the city on foot, what makes a sandal stand out—comfort, style, versatility? How do you balance it all?
    N:
    Balance isn’t something I chase; I try to just tune into it. For me, footwear sets the tone. A sandal has to be comfortable first, but if it lifts the whole outfit, even better.
    Z: Stockholm is such a walkable city, so comfort has to come first. That said, I’m not always the best at walking as much as I should, so I do consider style. But it depends on the occasion and what I'm styling the sandal for. If I'm chilling, I just want to be comfortable.

    SM: What’s your favourite occasion to wear sandals?
    N:
    After a good swim in the Swedish archipelago.
    Z: On my way to, in, and from the studio.

    SM: What’s one hidden gem or local tradition in your neighbourhood that more people should know about?
    N:
    Shoutout to Omayma at Nytorget! It’s more than a café, it’s the kind of place where the music always hits, the energy feels familiar, and no one’s in a rush to leave. The owners have created a space that holds both young voices and old souls, a local rhythm and a safe space.
    Z: There's a lake called Söderbysjön in the Söderort area where I grew up.  That place was banging when I was younger and still is. It has beautiful rocky cliffs and an overall immaculate vibe.

    SM: Stockholm has such distinct areas. How do the places you've picked showcase the city’s diversity or personality?
    Z:
    Skinnarviksberget is probably very nostalgic for a lot of Stockholmers since it’s one of the best viewpoints in the city. And with Långholmen, I think it’s kind of wild that you can swim in clean (depending on who you ask) water right in the middle of the city. That’s not something you get in most places.

    SM: In what ways does your creative work or lifestyle influence how you experience and move through the city?
    N:
    I think I move through the city the same way I make music—with curiosity and quiet intensity. I’m always watching, feeling, listening. Certain corners or passing conversations plant melodies in me without trying.
    Z: I spend most of my time in the studio, mostly in the middle of the city where I live. But my family’s in Söderort, and my area can be kind of boring sometimes, so I end up going there a lot.

    SM: If you could give one piece of advice to someone visiting Stockholm for the first time in summer, what would it be, and what should they not miss?
    N:
    Don’t just visit - observe. Stockholm reveals itself slowly. Ask people about their favourite spots; we all have our corners of the city we quietly love.
    Z: My advice would be to take advantage of how walkable and beautiful the city is. I’d say get an evening pass to Gröna Lund, hit the 'slänggunga' and get the full view experience all in one go. And if you’re into vintage shopping, check out Lindra secondhand in Kärrtorp centrum.

    Discover the full Dr. Martens sandal collection online at www.drmartens.com and in the Dr. Martens Stockholm store located at Drottninggatan 61.

    Seen on left: Raine Sandals and Josef Sandals

    Naliyah wears Fisherman sandals
    Zikai wears Raine Sandals
    Naliyah wears Fisherman sandals
    Zikai wears Raine Sandals
    Zikai wears Gryphon sandals
    Naliyah wears Fisherman sandals
    Zikai wears Gryphon sandals

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