• photography Alva Nylander

    design Filippa Fuxe

    Interview with Filippa Fuxe and Joel Andersson, winners of the NK Young Talent Award By Beckmans

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    On a sunny February morning, the Stockholm fashion crowd gathered at the historical department store Nordiska Kompaniet for breakfast and for celebration of the NK Young Talent Award by Beckmans winners Filippa Fuxe and Joel Andersson. Odalisque  had the opportunity to interview them. 

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Congratulations on winning the NK Young Talent award, what are your initial feelings?
    Filippa Fuxe:
     I feel very honored to receive this award, and I am grateful for the recognition.
    Joel Andersson: Thank you, I am super proud and thankful for the award. The exhibition and everything surrounding it has been great.

    UL: Please tell me a bit of your backstory, what did you study or work with before getting accepted to Beckmans?
    FF:
    Before Beckmans I studied at Central Saint Martins in London, and during my childhood up I sewed my own clothes together with my grandmother. We used to go to an H&M store and purchase my favorite garment, sew one of my own, and return it. Clothing quickly became a very important way for me to express myself.
    JA: So before Beckmans I dabbled in a couple of different things. I did a one-year course in sewing and pattern making followed by one year as a tailoring apprentice and one additional year of fashion theory.

    UL: What initially drew you to the fashion industry?
    FF:
    I have always been obsessed in the craftsmanship of making garments and of the female body. Growing up in a family of four sisters we always shared clothes, and I remember being fascinated over how a garment looked so different on all of our bodies in different stages of puberty and childhood.
    JA: Honestly, I think my interest in fashion started through my discovery of street wear which was followed with a deeper dive into the world of high fashion and designers such as Margiela, Raf Simons and Jil Sander.

    UL: What is your inspiration behind your designs and this collection in particular?
    FF:
    My latest collection is based on an embodiment of a recycled and biodegradable material’s path through time and between bodies. I have used the raw product Circulose®, a material that has been dissolved from old clothes into cellulosic fibers that have been compressed, spun to thread, and woven into new fabrics. My philosophy is therefore that the material has its own life. It descends, is reborn and its soul reincarnates from one garment to another.The material’s reincarnation is visualised through inspiration from spiritual artists from the 1930´s such as Agnes Pelton and Emma Kunz.
    JA: With this collection I wanted to weave together my past and present. When I first started to pursue fashion, I kept it separate from the rest of my life. I think it was due to the fact that I didn’t feel like it was a realistic career path. I had a feeling of ambivalence (hence the name of the collection) toward fashion. Growing up in a rural part of Sweden as a child of carpenters a lot of the clothing that I was subjected to were workwear. This stands in strong contrast to the tailoring, deconstruction and Avant Garde fashion that caught my eye later on in life. By creating something that I took into account, everything that has shaped me in my role as a designer I wanted to erase this weird pre and post fashion barrier that I had in my head.

    UL: Can you share some insights into your creative process?
    FF:
     I always work best when I let my creativity emerge organically and is based on enthusiasm, experimentation, and intuition.
    JA: Initially my process is made up of a lot of research. I try to cast a wide net and soak up as much inspiration as possible in the early stages so that I can edit and narrow things down as I go. I also like to mix two- and three-dimensional sketching through both drawing and draping.

    UL: What are your core values as a designer?
    FF:
    Design processes are many times so speeded up.One of my core values are really that your art - in whichever media it might be -  needs time and commitment. I believe in the importance of giving yourself over to your craft, and nurturing it with the time and energy it deserves.
    JASo for me it’s very important that any project is conceptually driven. I don’t want my clothing to just be clothing. I want every design decision to be made with the concept and initial inspiration in mind. Through the course of fashion school sustainability has also grown to be a core value of mine.

    UL: What was the biggest challenge creating this collection?
    FF:
    The collection is created through biodegradable material both in a three-dimensional way, from the outside through the usage of recycled fabrics from Circulose®  and from the inside through the usage of cellulosic fibrers that created padding inside the garments. That was probably the biggest challenge, being limited by the material used in the collection.But limitations and boundaries often open up for creativity, I see it as a reliable tool for bringing new ideas to what I am working on.
    JAFor me the biggest challenge was sourcing the materials. Since I decided to make everything out of upcycled textiles but still had very specific materials in mind it took a lot of time to gather everything.

    UL: What can we expect from you in the near future?
    FF:
     Over the past six months, I have worked intensively as the Creative Director for a new brand, Leoní, which is launching this spring together with fashion entrepreneur Nathalie Schuterman. Leoní's first collection reflects a balance between the sculptural and the minimalistic, garments that have undergone an extensive design process but are uncomplicated to wear. Moving forward, you will see something that I have never really worked with before, namely clothes that are practical for everyday use. For a long time, I have been in a period where I solely focused on creating clothes based on specific concepts, and sometimes they have been wearable and sometimes not. Now, I have found a balance between conceptual and intuitive creation, and I am interested in people wearing my clothes. There is something exciting about creating garments that will become a part of someone else's life.
    JA: Hopefully, a lot more. I want to steadily keep evolving and try new things within fashion. I feel like ever since the initial post fashion school burnout period ended, I want to hit the ground running.

    photography Alva Nylander

    design Joel Andersson

    image courtesy of Joel Andersson
    image courtesy of Filippa Fuxe
  • L'ART BRUT - Art as primal force at Millesgården Museum

    Written by Fashion Tales

    “What is art and who determines it? These questions are raised by the exhibition L’ART BRUT – Art as primal force, which opens at Millesgården on June 1, 2024. The term l'art brut, French for raw art, was coined by the French artist Jean Dubuffet (1901-1985). The concept refers to artistic expressions created by individuals outside the established art world and its academic framework. During his lifetime, Dubuffet amassed over 5,000 works, and the collection has since expanded to nearly 70,000 pieces. In the art hall, the works are organised thematically, showcasing geometric compositions, vibrant paintings with emblematic figures, and small paper scraps with drawn narratives interspersed with writings, sculptures, creations featuring animal motifs, and landscape depictions. The exhibition at Millesgården is a collaboration with the Collection de l’Art Brut in Lausanne, Switzerland, and is based on 19 Swiss creators, presenting over 100 works.”

    The exhibition, focused on Swiss creators, is thematically organised, beginning with Adolf Wölfli's characteristic and geometric compositions, followed by Aloïse Corbaz's vibrant paintings featuring emblematic figures. Works by Adolf Wölfli were among the first acquisitions in Dubuffet's collection, and Aloïse Corbaz played a pivotal role in the collection's eventual relocation to Lausanne. Subsequently, there is a collection of creations acquired from the country's mental hospitals. These works are distinguished by their format; small scraps of paper with drawn narratives, including pieces by Julie Bar and Jules Doudin. Additionally, there are presentations of works where the creators reference their own selves, such as Justine Python's writings and Gaston Teuscher's swirling motifs, along with Angelo Meanis's sculptures. Finally, we encounter Aloïs Wey's imaginary palace architecture and Samuel Failloubaz's animal motifs alongside Benjamin Bonjour's landscape depictions.

  • AIRA

    Written by Jahwanna Berglund

     A Culinary Journey: Exploring the Exquisite Realm of AIRA in Stockholm

    Nestled away from the bustling hum of Stockholm lies a sanctuary of culinary excellence: AIRA. Settled gracefully in the serene bay of Biskopsudden, this two-Michelin-starred restaurant offers a panoramic view over Saltsjön.

    Upon entering AIRA, guests are greeted by an ambiance that seamlessly blends contemporary elegance with timeless Nordic design. Culinary Excellence Redefined: Every inch of AIRA's open-concept space is carefully curated, reflecting the essence of Scandinavian nature through materials such as stone, wood, brass, leather and sumptuous textiles. Whether seated by the panoramic windows overlooking the city skyline the ambiance exudes both intimacy and expansiveness, inviting guests to immerse themselves in a world of unparalleled comfort and sophistication.
    Engaging all the senses at once.

    AIRA isn't merely a destination for gastronomic fulfilment; it's an experience that captivates diners from around the globe. Under the masterful direction of Swedish star chef Tommy Myllymäki, each moment spent at AIRA is a journey into the extraordinary. From the carefully crafted interiors to the precisely prepared dishes, every detail is thoughtfully considered to evoke a sense of wonder and delight.
     

    The culinary creations at AIRA transcend mere sustenance; they are works of art meticulously arranged on each plate. With each bite, guests are transported to a realm where flavour, texture, and presentation harmonise seamlessly.
    Chef Myllymäki's  dedication to making people happy is obvious in every dish, as he infuses his creations with passion, skills, and a touch of magic.

    AIRA, which can be translated to “The Principal,” epitomises excellence in every aspect. From the exquisite porcelain, adorning the tables to the carefully selected ingredients sourced from the finest producers, every element contributes to an unparalleled dining experience. The restaurant's philosophy revolves around the sensory journey, each dish designed to tantalise not only the taste buds but also the senses of sight, smell, and the touch of the perfectly chosen cutlery for each dish.

    The architectural brilliance of Jonas Bohlin further enhances the dining experience. There is a seamless fusion of natural elements and modern design that creates an atmosphere that is both timeless and contemporary. In four hours, guests are treated to a symphony of sensations—a true visual feast!

    At the heart of AIRA's culinary philosophy lies a deep reverence for the bountiful offerings of the Nordic region. Led by Executive Chef Magnus Johansson, whose expertise is complemented by a team of culinary artisans. The restaurant's menu showcases a creative fusion of traditional flavours and modern techniques. Each dish is meticulously crafted to perfection.

    AIRA proudly presents the culmination of culinary mastery and sensory bliss.
    Here, guests embark on a culinary odyssey that feels as familiar as home yet as extraordinary as a dream. It's an invitation to savour the joys of life, one delectable bite at a time, in a setting that celebrates the beauty of nature and the artistry of gastronomy.

    In conclusion, AIRA is more than just a restaurant; it's a sanctuary where culinary dreams come to life. With its unwavering commitment to excellence, AIRA continues to redefine the boundaries of gastronomic innovation, inviting guests to embark on a lovely journey of taste, texture.

    www.aira.se

    Photo by Gustaf Björlin/ Food Office

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