• photography by ASGER MORTENSEN

    Stine Goya

    Written by Chava Krivchenia by Sandra Myhrberg

    Behind the patterns at Stine Goya

    She seems to have been born with an inherent desire to design and create. As a result of this creative drive she continues to amaze and clothe us with elegant prints and silhouettes.
    Stine Goya’s design studio was founded in 2006, developed almost immediately after her graduation from Central Saint Martins. Her professionalism and direction is apparent in Stine Goya’s resume but more importantly is reflected in the quality and ingenuity of her creations.
    She was able to answer a few questions about her brand and her methods despite her incredibly busy schedule.

    What made you first want to apply and pursue fashion school? 


    My passion for creativity and colors has always been a presence. I’ve been making my own clothes and styling ever since I was a little girl.
    How do you balance personal opinions and style with the overall product decisions in your brand Stine Goya? 

    These two things are closely related; balanced in an open process where the artistic and creative approach is guided by our design identity – I learned early that trusting my own gut feeling is the only right way for me and the brand.

    What gives you the most inspiration outside of fashion towards your work and art? 


    I find my inspiration everywhere when I travel, mostly outside of Denmark. It can be an Italian architect that catches my eye, a piece of South American art or a beautiful landscape.
    How do the deadlines and fast-pace of the fashion industry coincide with your working style? 


    My collections are long-lasting and stand outside the trend cycle. I’ve learned to do things calmly and in open processes. I am a perfectionist - I don’t like to present things that I am not proud of. To create things perfectly, you need time. I believe that great design is never rushed.

    How is Copenhagen reflected in your brand? 


    Copenhagen is home to me. It is where I have my design studio. I love the mix of being in a capital and at the same time a ‘smaller’ city. I do not see Copenhagen in my brand directly – but the brand is a reflection of me and I am from Copenhagen.
    Do you make the clothing for a certain person, if so who?
    I design clothes for women who are not afraid to express their individualities by the way they dress. It can be all different kind of girls and women which I appreciate very much.

    What do you consider a trend? 


    At Stine Goya we do not work with trends in that way. I see a trend as a feeling, a movement created by the people i.e. on the streets, from schools. As a designer, you make clothes - but it will always be the people who wear the clothes; that makes the trend.

    What are some future projects that you are looking forward to? 


    There are so many exciting things happening at the moment. Among others I look forward to celebrating our 10-year anniversary and showing at the Copenhagen Fashion Week in August – presenting the collection with a show is always magical.
    Do you like or want to collaborate with other artists or designers in the future? 


    Collaborating with talented artists from the art world has been a part of the brand since the beginning, and is something I intend to continue. It brings a welcome interruption into my everyday work-life. Working with people from outside the fashion industry is a present; it gives me new ways to explore my own designs, fuel my creativity and write new chapters in the Stine Goya story.
    What was your greatest obstacle in creating Stine Goya? 

    It is never easy to start a small independent company – But I can say now after 10 years that it is all worth it. It is a pleasure to grow and succeed with your passion - meeting and working with so many talented and inspiring people along the way. An obstacle is always an opportunity to learn and grow.

  • Layered

    Written by Chelsea Porter

    Layered + Michel Bussien

    Swedish interior brand Layered has launched their collaboration with artist Michel Bussien ; presenting the new collection in an installation exhibit. The furniture bears elements representing the artistic expression and blending of interior art and design.

    Here at Odalisque we couldn’t wait to get some Q&A time with the designer and founder herself Malin Glemme to discuss Layered, the new collection and collaboration with Michael Bussien.

    Where did Layered begin?
    I started Layered two years ago with the idea of offering high quality rugs in outstanding designs for moderate prices. The Furniture Collection is created with the same vision: to offer modern and elegant pieces at reasonable prices. Layered is creating collections for modern and elegant homes all over the world.

    How would you personally describe the new collection?
    The vision was to create elegant and contemporary design in combination with edgy and unexpected details. The collection is in rich velvet and you will find sofas, poufs, chairs and a day bed among the ten pieces. Colors range from dark, rich graphite gray and midnight blue to powder pink and emerald green. Details come in dark wood and brass.

    What inspires you?
    I find inspiration within different art forms- fashion, photography and architecture. For this collection, I was mostly inspired by the beautiful velvet fabric. Once I felt the soft and rich surface, the design and creation process started. And I love daydreaming on Pinterest, it’s a great source for all types of different inspiration!

    Where were you first introduced to Michael’s work?
    I first saw Michael’s work in Lamp Flag Store - his selection of ceiling light objects in sheep stomach and iron. I was so intrigued by these unique forms, it caught my eye right away.

    What do you hope people will gain from this experience?
    I hope to challenge people’s perceptions of their capability to explore other creative fields such as fashion, art, interior and photography. You don’t have to be in a box, you can explore other paths and still return back to your major craft. The work is nearly a meeting between worlds, surrealistically similar to the piece itself- with no direct story.

  • photography by ANNICA ZION

    HE EXPLORES THE HE(ART) OF (SUB)CULTURE

    Written by Chava Krivchenia by Stephanie Cetina

    Edit: Marge Grossfeld

    He brings nightlife into the art space through performance and installations, but conversely, does experimental art projects inside his nightlife arena.

    Esben Weile Kjær, known as a DJ, party organizer and activist, creates and fulfills our constant need for reminders about how we are all connected - without demeaning or underplaying our individual differences and site specificity.

    Through arts events and his refusal to limit his expression to one medium or approach, Esben, with his sister Anna Weile Kjær and other collaborators, explores the importance of subcultures or community.

    – I want to examine how strong a cultural identity can be, he says.

    He and his sister are now working on a show, which you can experience April 27th in Copenhagen at Future Suburban Contemporary.

    Odalisque was able to ask Esben Weile Kjær some questions about his life and artwork.

    CK: Can you tell me about your background?
    EWK: I am originally from Aarhus but I moved into a squat in Copenhagen when I was sixteen. I was doing activism and went to punk concerts and had a lot of fun.
    My DJing began in my hometown with one of my best friends. We played at some parties where the organizers were letting us in from the back door because we were way too young. It was really cute – our parents picking us up after the gig.
    I remember how fascinated I was by the energies at the club. I think that maybe it was the same that I found in the punk scene - like how music can transform the space totally and be a strategy to let bodies act differently and more autonomously.
    Of course, I was too young to get into the clubs and that’s why I started doing my own parties. My friends and I got some help from some older friends and we did some of the first queer raves in Aarhus.
    I don’t know how queer they actually were but we felt it was super queer at the time and maybe that is enough when you are 15 years old and you don't know anything about sexuality and gender and the only thing you want is to instantly run away from categories and norms.
    All this was a big inspiration and is now a big theme in my art practice. The movements of youth culture and the aesthetics of different sub cultures, and how pop culture all relate to each other. Subcultures can mutate really fast - through capitalism - and be something else.


    CK: Please talk about the difference between your subcultural educational experiences and more mainstream arts education background.
    EWK: When I moved to Copenhagen I thought that I would never go to high school. But eventually I attended one anyway, called Det Frie Gymnasium (Free High School). The school looked like a squat and it was a democracy - all of the students had as much to say as the teachers. Study there changed my mind of being a part of an educational institution. I felt comfortable and happy staying there. 

    Right after high school I started at the Rhythmic Music Conservatory and meanwhile, as I studied there, my practice changed into something that was more comfortable in an arts space rather than a concert hall. So, I started exploring culture studies, performance theory and music theory through the ideas of sound. I have a BA from there, but now I am at an art academy which fits me better.

    CK: What groups and communities has inspired your work?
    EWK: I'm inspired by movements and subcultures and how they are communicating. I have been djing in 9 years now and have been playing in the most of the world. Visiting all the different clubs has been a kind of research that I use to produce art. Of course I also look at other artists. I'm a big fan of Mark Leckey, Evian Christ and Juliana Huxtable to name some artists who also have a DJ background and use it in their art.
    I can also name The New York based collective that were active in the 90's called Group Material. I am excited about how they used the art spaces as a social space. At the moment I really like the Spanish artist Antoni Miralda. I'm really interested in how he works with participation in he’s work. But this is only a few I like, the list could be forever.

    CK: What is your planning method for your projects?
    EWK: A lot of my research is from art theory and discussion with my sister who is an art historian. She has just finished a thesis about rave culture, and how its’ aesthetics have been implemented in the art world and have affected pop culture. I am reading a lot, going out, and am studying issues close by.
    For example in my performance How 2 Neo-tribe that was shown first time at Tranen Contemporary Art Center, I wanted the purpose to be questioning the identification of the attendants. I created flags working as ID tags for individuals at the show, each being a label of subcultures around the world. These flags were going around the exhibition space on people walking around and were a part of the performance. The labeled subcultures interacted and moved around depending upon who was choosing and adopting the identification on the label. There wasn’t a set plan or choreography. Humans are already naturally really choreographed without planning. That’s a method I often use. To add some elements or rules on a social situation that already exist.

    CK: Do you prefer collaboration or working individually?
    EWK: My practices are really social. I prefer to work together with other people. I’m interested in the collective. A big part of my practice is to do interventions of other institutions. You can maybe call it brand hacking. I try to fade into the structure of the place and use the way that they advertise (can be on social media for example) as a place for art. I did one last year called Institute for Success. It was a performative intervention where I acted as a curator and invited different performance artists to show pieces. Now we have turned this “Institution” into an art collective of seven artists and we will do a new intervention called Institut for Success 2.0 at the National Gallery of Denmark the second of June.

    The person I have been working with most, and still do, is my sister. We have been writing and organizing anthologies. Some months ago in fact, we had a show in Basel called Radical Togetherness. We also run an exhibition space together called Adult in Copenhagen together with our dear friend Mikkeline Sofie Larsson.

    CK: You also like to photograph the people around you?
    EWK: I do love taking pictures of my friends. Now I am starting to get asked by friends and art connections to photograph them. I really don’t see myself as a photographer, but I really like portraying specific people. I don’t really know why or what will come of it eventually, it’s a personal project for now. I see my portraits as a family scrapbook in a way, with nice memories.

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