• photography by SANDRA MYHRBERG
    stylist JOSEF FORSELIUS
    hair PHILIP FOHLIN / LINKdetails
    set & prop stylist MATTIAS MARKLUND
    model MINNA P /Stockholmsgruppen
    photo assistant ESTELLA ELOFSDOTTER
    stylists assistant SACKARIAS STENIUS

    Femme Fatale and The Private Eye

    Written by Lars Holmberg by Klokie

    We love the game, for it is, to paraphrase Oscar Wilde, more real than life.¹

    The label “Film Noir” often evokes glossy images and lustful sighs from cineastes as well as generally style-minded people. The Dream Factory produced many films associated with those beloved noir elements, particularly black and white crime dramas with roots in German expressionism², American detective and crime novels³, and the Great Depression, starring many actors we now associate with Hollywood's heyday from the early 1940s to the late 50s⁴.

    What made the films so visually special? The settings, characters, and plots firmly established the genre, as did the style and presentation of the film medium itself: lights dimmed, smoke, fog and the darkness of night underscoring the mystery. Largely depending on budgets that did not allow for lavish set design, in most cases Noir films were relatively small productions. This limitation ironically allowed writers, directors and filmmakers to be more free in their expression. Famous actors' egos and agents were not as meddlesome when it came to molding the films' content.

    A connection can be made between the major studios and contemporary fashion houses that in many ways are limited when it comes to visual expression – restricted by traditions and not least of all by economic considerations. Noir films are characterized by a greater range of experimentation than contemporary major Hollywood productions. Expressionism helped to produce a semi-documentary style of filmmaking. Though unspoken production codes prevented the films' characters from getting away with murder or committing adultery, dialogue and on-screen events tended to challenge the limits of what was considered permissible for the time.

    Plots varied, with a selection of key figures that says a lot about the zeitgeist: private detectives, civilian scouts, aging boxers. The perpetrator of a confidence trick (or “con-trick”), the honest citizen lured into the criminal world, or the innocent who just gets in the way. All the characters shared a distinctive style and created an ideal type that has become a trend-setter for future film productions. Filmmakers like Quentin Tarantino, David Lynch, and the Coen brothers make clear reference to noir tradition in their work.

    Typical characters reveal the era in which Noir films were made. They represent the types as ”the other” (or ”normal” to make use of one of psychology's most used but least problematized concept) to which all others can mirror themselves. The boxer and the private detective are part of the American dream: the freedom hero, the loner. He lived dangerously, with uncompromisable style. There was a man who many wanted to identify with, while the con is always present among us, in the form of car salesman or contemporary telemarketers. The man that just gets in the way of a crime is someone that all of us can sympathize with.

    The films are often crime dramas set in suburban landscapes. Suburbia might play a larger role in the films' successes than one first imagines. One of the fundamental elements of the American dream is about a house outside the filthy and dangerous inner city. In the beginning of the last century, that dream became within reach for a larger group of society's members. They moved up the ladder of society from Ellis Island, through lower Manhattan's dirt and crime toward the safety and clean air of suburbia. But as much as the suburb created a sense of security, the new lifestyle also brought with it loneliness and ennui, especially for the women who were expected to work full time to maintain a façade.⁵

    Security created a form of suburban angst, and one way to ease the pressure was a moment in front of the big screen while the ideal-typical character got to be the average American's alter ego and live the alternative dream: a life in which it was possible to live out their fantasies without fear of the neighbors watching. Suburban anxiety can be summarized in two ideal-typical characters: the “Private Eye”, and the “Femme Fatale” (even if the roles are not represented in all Noir films).

    FEMME FATALE

    A Femme Fatale was common during the 1940s and 1950s. Some of the most famous operators within the Femme Fatale role are Barbara Stanwyck, Phyllis Dietrichson, and Marlene Dietrich, as well as Rita Hayworth, Lana Turner, Ava Gardner and Jane Greer. Eary on, Brigid O'Shaughnessy (played by Mary Astor) murdered Sam Spade's partner in The Maltese Falcon, Gene Tierney played Brent Harland in Leave Her to Heaven, and Rita Hayworth played perhaps the most famous Femme Fatale in Gilda.

    Narcissistic wives manipulated their men. The women were strong and independent, but always worked within the context of what was permissible for a woman to do at the time. Style and clothing were central to showcase lives that were almost perfect on the surface. The characters played the role of the perfect hostess, and the clothes illustrated that perfection and mental instability are intimately linked. A common approach in the films where mental illness and perfect exteriors often interrelated as portrayed famously by Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct.

    The actresses played the role of the Femme Fatale so perfectly that the makeup department was superfluous. Hollywood's most prominent fashion designers - and especially Edith Head, who won no less than eight Oscars for her work - helped to create the elegant style that signalled a perfect surface, but also a challenging sexuality in combination with the underlying desire for something else. They coupled the Femme Fatale with the ancient notion of woman as the uncontrollable and sexual body, feeling as opposed to reasoning, and manifested by sexuality and madness.

    PRIVATE DETECTIVE

    Femma Fatale's opposite, a private detective appeared in such iconic Noir films as The Maltese Falcon, where Humphrey Bogart plays Sam Spade, and Murder, My Sweet with Dick Powell as Philip Marlowe. Peter Lorre, William Holden, Erich von Stroheim and James Cagney all played the memorable detective with the classic trench coat, a slouch hat, three-piece suit and the obligatory cigarette.⁶

    The quiet, thoughtful, smoking man who lives at night: he is alone and is one of the few who, by his lifestyle, challenges the suburban dream and the American myth of freedom, that are held mercilessly captive by the social norms and rules for how to live.⁷ Through his connection to the city, to alcohol-free conditions and violence, he is representative of all that trapped men crave. While representing reason, the equally ancient notion of the mind, the thinking man who is not fooled, not even by the Femme Fatale that confuses all the other men with their style and sensuality.

    ¹ Engelmeier Peter W. Fashion in Film, 12.

    ² The German expressionists focused on the morbid and gloomy emotions and spared no effects. They had a strong impact on both literature and film. The Testament of Dr. Mabuse is a typical example of 30s-expressionism. Emile Nolde, Luwig Kirshner, Oscar Kokoscha and Max Beckman.

    ³ It was the style that today we usually designate as hard-boiled where writers like Dashiell Hammett (Red Harvest), James M. Cain (The Postman Always Rings Twice), Raymond Chandler (The Big Sleep), and the most prolific of them all Cornell Woolrich, who wrote books that formed the basis of not less than thirteen films.

    Styles connected with Film Noir are normally linked to Hollywood, even though it was recorded films in both France and the French productions Pépé le Moko (1937), directed by Julien Duvivier, and Le Jour see lève (1939), directed by Marcel Carné and especially Jules Dassin moved to France in the early 1950s as a result of the Hollywood blacklist, and made ​one of the most famous French film noirs, Rififi (1955). England Examples of British noir from the classic period include Brighton Rock (1947), directed by John Boulting; They Made Me a Fugitive (1947), directed by Alberto Cavalcanti: The Small Back Room (1948), directed by Michael Powell and Emeric press burger; The October Man (1950), directed by Roy Ward Baker, and Cast a Dark Shadow (1955), directed by Lewis Gilbert. Terence Fisher directed Several low-budget thrillers in a noir mode for Hammer Film Productions, including The Last Page (aka Man​ Bait; 1952), Stolen Face (1952), and Murder by Proxy (aka Blackout; 1954) and Japan Stray Dog (1949), directed and co-written by Akira Kurosawa, contains many cinematographic and narrative elements Associated with classic American film noir.

    ⁵ Suburban anxiety is the main theme of American film. American Beauty in 1999 with Kevin Spacey and Anette Benning in the lead roles is perhaps the film that most clearly illustrates the sense in which millions of Americans recognize themselves.

    ⁶ Other seminal noir sleuths served larger institutions, Such as Dana Andrews's police detective in Laura (1944), Edmond O'Brien's' insurance investigator in The Killers, and Edward G. Robinson's government agent in The Stranger (1946).

    ⁷ “Jackets were cut wide to take handguns, casual trousers where held up by broad suspenders. The shirt was in a contrast color, tie and pocket handkerchief care fully chosen and striking. Rings of gold chains signalled the wages of fear ” Engelmeier Peter W. Fashion in Film, 14.

    net (worn as headband) STYLISTS OWN
    top MENCKEL
    belt MADE BY STYLIST
    vest in feathers RODEBJER 
    skirt H&M
    blouse MENCKEL
    sequined dress NLY 
    net STYLISTS OWN
    faux leather trousers BACK 
    blouse RODEBJER 
    hat VINTAGE
    gloves ANNA MARGARETA SVENSSON 
    / THE SWEDISH SCHOOL OF TEXTILES
    top HELMUT LANG
    neckpiece STYLISTS OWN
    hat VINTAGE  
    top MENCKEL
    sunglasses STYLISTS OWN
    coat GANT
    top MENCKEL
    dress RALPH LAUREN
    net STYLISTS OWN
    faux leather trousers BACK
    blouse RODEBJER
    skirt BACK
    coat HOPE 
    top MENCKEL
    boots TIGER OF SWEDEN
    sunglasses DRIES VAN NOTEN 
    suitcase VINTAGE

    dress ANNA MARGARETA SVENSSON

    / SWEDISH SCHOOL OF TEXTILES
    net STYLISTS OWN

  • photography by SANDRA MYHRBERG
    stylist MICHAELA MYHRBERG in collaboration with INGMARI LAMY
    hair & make up PARI DAMANI
    assistant SOFIA LINDBERG
    thank you to STORHOLMEN CASTLE

    An interview with Ingmari Lamy

    Written by Sally Kennedy by Michaela Widergren

    The Grace of a Moment with Ingmari

    The last thing I said to my colleague before I rushed from my office to meet Ingmari Lamy was ” I’m going to interview a super model. I hope she doesn’t eat me alive”.
    It was a cliché, of course, but it was precisely what I was thinking. I was preparing to rush through my interview so I wouldn’t frustrate what I was certain would be a very busy and impatient woman. I also expected the long, white-haired beauty I’d seen in fashion spreads to be toughened by all her years in the modeling business.

    Within moments of seeing her, I knew I’d had it all wrong. I would later confess to her that I was convinced that I was destined to meet her, and that she’d enriched my life within the first hour of our simple, intimate lunch in Gamla Stan. It has occurred to me since then that she probably has a similar effect on most everyone she meets. Ingmari is anything but predictable, and I suspect that she surprises people wherever she goes.

    We’d planned our meeting carefully and I got there early so I could greet her when she arrived. I didn’t want to miss her since meeting her at all had proven to be difficult. I recognized her immediately and waved her down. As she approached me, I was struck by two things; how gently and gracefully she moved, and how calm she seemed. She stuck out in the midday rush of a lunch crowd in transition, and it made her appearance all the more striking. As if she wasn’t striking enough. We walked along the narrow alleyways of Gamla Stan, chatting and carefully inspecting potential lunch spots. She wanted a relaxed, quiet place to talk and was determined to find an ecological menu. We eventually settled on a pretty little bistro Ingmari knew about and took off our coats before securing our seats. Ingmari looked around, slowly taking in her surroundings, and smiled discreetly. ”This should work, don’t you think?”

    I’d started interviewing her already, but up to this point we’d been preoccupied with other activities, like finding a decent menu and avoiding tripping on cobblestones. Now Ingmari was sitting before me, and I had her full attention. She was a stunning woman, indeed. Her soft, gentle face, and clear, bright eyes were framed by long, white hair that hung naturally down to her waist. She was wearing no make-up as far as I could tell and her petite frame was draped in unassuming, pretty clothes that indicated a passion for textiles rather than an effort to stand out. I kept thinking that she looked the way all of us should look at sixty-five; healthy, grounded, and completely comfortable in her own skin. Being beautiful helps, of course, but this was not a woman that made an issue of her looks. Her beauty is just a part of her, and other things, like the environment, spirituality, the detriment of a constantly connected digital world, and the importance of teaching children self-respect, seemed to concern her considerably more.

    Ingmari was born outside Stockholm, Sweden in a remote, quiet area. She spent much of her early childhood with her paternal grandparents. When I asked what this time in her life was like, her answer surprised me.

    ”My grandparents were wonderful, and I was an unusual child”. She went on to qualify her statement. ”I wasn’t interested in the same things as other children my age, and I wasn’t particularly sociable. I spent a lot of time with my grandparents and their contemporaries, and when I wasn’t with them, I was quite content to play on my own. Preferably in our garden and out in the forest.” Her grandparents saw this in Ingmari and indulged her. They let her play alone outdoors for hours and even encouraged her to explore on her own. The forest and nature itself became her playground. Ingmari is convinced that it was in this early stage of life that she developed such a strong sense of self; the platform that has guided her to be the person she is today.

    ”I have always loved to be on my own and felt comfortable with myself. And I still need a lot of time to retreat and reflect. I am sometimes happiest alone, outdoors, where I can be in the moment without interruptions. I really am a sort of wood nymph at heart”.

    I listened intently, wondering how she survived all those years modeling when she was essentially an introspective nature child.

    “How did you cope with a career as a model? What was it like working in an environment where so much importance was placed on your appearance?” It seemed incongruent with the things she seemed to embody and value.

    ”I find the idea of beauty misunderstood. A beautiful appearance and inner beauty are not in conflict with one another if you have a strong sense of self. They come from the same source– your inner essence.” I smiled to myself. She was right, of course.

    Ingmari has not exactly kept out of the spotlight. She has worked with the best in the business. In fact, she has worked with many iconic names that define the business: David Bailey, Gian Paolo Barbieri, Gilles Bensimon, Irving Penn, Bob Richardsson, Yves Saint Laurent, and Kenzo, to name but a few. A model scout in Paris discovered her early, and it wasn’t long before she was gracing the covers of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. It made sense. I’d seen some of her early modeling pictures and sitting in the bare light of the noon winter sun, she looked as breathtaking now as she did as a young woman.

    ”Did you want to become a model? Was it something you longed for?”

    ”It’s always seemed natural to me that I became a model, as if I was meant for it. I believe it’s a part of my life path, and the reason I’m a mentor and guide today. When I was a little girl my grandmother told me that I was going to be famous. She had psychic abilities so I just accepted it. I wasn’t surprised when everything started happening, and in a way, I was prepared. I didn’t get lost in it because I knew myself well. And because I was used to and even enjoyed being alone, it wasn’t hard for me to say no to things I didn’t want to participate in. I’d always had an independent spirit so it wasn’t lonely. And traveling to all those amazing places and meeting lots of different cultures and working with interesting, talented people was fascinating. I took advantage of that, and as long as I could pull back when I needed to, I was happy.”

    In 1976, she did just that. She moved to Formentera, Spain after retiring from modeling to focus on her family. At the time, the island did not have electricity, so it was a drastic change in lifestyle. While talking about raising children on the island (Ingmari raised two, Josef and Daga, and also has a bonus daughter, Sinika), I am struck by her generous parenting philosophy. Has she always been this way, I wonder, so grounded and full of integrity? It seems that way. And then it dawns on me. What an incredible model she must be to work with– so present, self-assured, and brave.

    ”Do you like working in front of a camera?”

    ”I do. It can be a magical experience. You and the photographer are in your own space, and then you are in your own space with the actual lens. You are in a virtual room where you create something. It’s kind of like acting and it’s quite exciting. Working together with a photographer has always come fairly easily to me.”

    Ingmari is also widely regarded as a style icon. She’s managed to integrate fashion, beauty, and awareness on a level that is entirely unique during the six decades she’s been in the business. I ask her how this came about.

    “ I never planned to become a style icon. I wasn’t aware of my approach to fashion or beauty when I was younger, but looking back, I can see that there has been a certain theme to my style. And Kenzo has called me his muse, so I must have had a unique style back then, but it wasn’t something I actively thought about. I have always just been myself.”

    ”Do you have any advice for models today?”

    ”The modeling business has changed a lot. I never made that much money, even as a cover model of international magazines and as the face of Yves Saint Laurent. Today, these kinds of jobs generate a lot more money. There was a certain freedom in my experience as a model, though. I made choices that felt right for me throughout my career. I think life as a model today is much harsher. I would advise finding a mentor so that you always have support and someone with experience to talk to about your concerns. Also, it’s important to follow your intuitions and maintain your personal boundaries. Trends in the business and model preferences can be a tough environment.”

    I am curious to find out what she’s doing now. I know she still models and attends fashion shows regularly, but I’ve heard that she’s doing a lot more. I pop the magical question and another fascinating door opens. She is a writer and has a blog with Rodeo Magazine, lectures and gives courses in self- awareness and inner beauty, is a mentor and coach, and works with a highly specialized form of event planning. Soon, Ingmari will be coming out with a brand of her own. It seems she has always had a lot of good ideas.

    “I’ve heard that you once lived and worked in a castle. Is this true?”

    “Yes. I lived in a really deteriorated castle on the island Storholmen for nearly six years. I moved into the wing of the castle after meeting the owner, Leif, and his wife. I was planning to open an exclusive, ecological spa with its own range of ecological products at the castle, but for various reasons the project was never fully realized. It was an exciting time, though, and living there was a real adventure.”

    “You seem to be so creative, in so many ways. How do you get everything done?”

    ”Life is such a riddle, don’t you think? I am trying to figure out how to prioritize everything, how to find the time to do the things I find important, and all the while, find balance within that. I am happiest when I can stay in the present and appreciate what is happening now. That is where I find inspiration.”

    This is the first time I actually think about Ingmari’s age. Will time run out before she’s had time to do the things she wants to do? I find myself hoping she’ll be able to make them happen. I even find myself wanting to help her make everything happen. When we eventually run out of time, I leave her for a minute to put on my coat. When I return to our table, she’s standing up and looking outside. The sun is starting to go down, as it does at 2 pm in Stockholm, Sweden on a deep winter’s day. I feel regret for her, since I know that she was probably longing to be outside walking in the sun’s rays throughout our lunch. I apologize as I move towards the door and encourage her to head outside before the sun goes down. She smiles at me as the bistro door starts to close behind me, and I hear her say happily, “The sun has set, but I am still here.”

    dress HUNKYDORY
    dress worn underneath BRUUNS BAZAR
    collar WOS
    necklace NO NO JEWELRY
    coat EMMA HANSEKLINT FOR KHADI AND CO
    dress MINNA PALMQVIST
    shoes JENNIE ELLEN
    necklace NO NO JEWELRY
    dress LOUISE KÖRNER / MUUSE
    jumpsuit HERNÁNDEZ CORNET
    coat INGMARI LAMY
    necklace YASAR AYDIN
    shoes JENNIE ELLEN
    top and head piece ALTEWAISAOME
    necklaces NO NO JEWELRY
    dress STINE GOYA
    shoes JENNIE ELLEN
    necklace INGMARI’S OWN
    jumpsuit HERNÁNDEZ CORNET
    necklace & bracelet NO NO JEWELRY
  • written by TSEMAYE OPUBOR

    An interview with Rankin

    Written by Tsemaye Opubor by Michaela Widergren

    More Rankin for the masses

    How many times have you seen those cheesy American television programmes where the “call to service” comes? You know the drill: when the call to serve comes, one answers… yada yada.

    Pan camera slowly to freelance journalist (a.k.a. moi) answering the phone: “Hello?”

    Muffled voice: “Would you like to interview Rankin about his new book, MORE?”

    Moi: “Whatever, let me know. Like, no big deal. If it happens, it happens,” I say, trying to sound like a chillier version of myself.

    I hang up the phone, and gone is the über-fierce telephone version of myself. (Adios, chica.)

    HOLY SHIT!! RANKIN!! Photography’s Don Dada!!” I’m yelling, I’m in the office, and I’m in a tizzy.

    SOME BAD MUSIC AND A SING-ALONG
    At times like this, only one person can bring me down from the ledge. I find my playlist and scroll to MC Hammer’s “U can’t touch this”. When my favourite bit starts, I torture everyone in the office by singing at the top my lungs:
    “Break it down:
    Stop, its Rankin time” (Yes, I changed the “Hammer time” bit to “Rankin time” to fit my circumstance.)

    Although you are all forgiven for thinking that I’ve lost the plot after the cringingly embarrassing MC Hammer sing-along, the release of Rankin’s MORE is not just a big deal for me. (Although I’m pretty chuffed about the interview, it’s not all about me, me, me…)

    RANKIN’S BIG KAHUNA
    Rankin’s MORE is a big deal for anyone interested in photography. His visual aesthetic has defined a generation to such a degree that there is a special place in popular culture reserved just for his good self. Not to mention that Rankin and his posse: Jefferson, Katie, and Katy started Dazed & Confused, one of the new wave of 90’s British style magazines that brilliantly documented every thing happening right then, with freshness, cheekiness and a fuck-you finger (probably painted a neon colour) proudly raised in the air.

    MORE offers an overview of some of Rankin’s most phenomenal work and it documents his photography from the fashion, music and media worlds over the past 20 years.

    For Rankin, who has a mammoth picture archive, and has taken so many unusual photos of celebrities, I wonder if it was a nightmare to decide which pictures would actually make the cut, since the hardcover book is a whopping 368 pages, and contains 243 color and 110 duotone photographs?

    “Well, the book was always gonna be full on. This is my third retrospective, it’s basically the big Kahuna, a greatest hits of sorts,” he says.

    “I have a very emotional relationship to my work. But there are some pictures that floated around that we ultimately decided not to use. They are a little bit like your family, because they’ve been seen so much: a bit like the annoying cousin… so you put those photos in a box to simmer for a while, and you hope time will change the way you feel about them,” he explains.

    ON DUMB ASSES AND PAPARAZZI
    When I ask him if anyone refused to be included in MORE, my question triggers the type of response that I’d been warned about from people who know Rankin well.

    An inch away from turning into an angry yob he says: “Funny you should mention it, but there was one celebrity that was such a dumbass he said he didn’t want his picture in the book because he doesn’t look like that any more. I mean come on, it’s a retrospective you dumb ass, that’s the meaning of the name!” (Believe me I tried, but he wouldn’t give up the name of the dumb ass.)

    Rankin then admits that it was actually the celebrity’s publicist that broke the news to him. (He wouldn’t give up the name of the dumb ass publicist either).

    “I’m happy just the same, actually if he’s too fucking stupid to get it, I shouldn’t be so annoyed. But, I really wanted to say “don’t be so fucking dumb”.

    Rankin tells me that he thinks its “ kind of silly” that there are some celebrities that don’t want him to take their picture, although the paparazzi take their picture regularly, and “they look bloody awful.” “At least in my photos I think they look pretty good,” he says.

    ON BEING AN ORIGINAL GANGSTER
    For Rankin, the work to bring MORE to life involved a re-examination of his own contribution to photography. “Back when I was starting out, I was doing stuff as an original gangster, like you say… I was an O.G., and part of a group of unique photographers. Our work was, for the time, very conceptual and the edge was about being super competitive. We kept trying to better ourselves constantly, in order to come up with the best ideas. That was special. I’m proud of what I did then. It was the fire of the glory days,” he explains.

    “It feels quite weird to see this never-ending celebrity filled party diary of your life and you’re not in any of the photos. But MORE isn’t my swan song. I called the book MORE, to really signal that I’m a photographer and that after more than 25 years of working, I’m not ready to quit,” Rankin explains.

    CODE NAME MORE: a.k.a SOME, GUSHY ROMANTIC STUFF
    We get onto the subject of love, and Rankin explains that MORE is dedicated to Tuuli, his wife. “In our secret language saying “I love you” to each other is to say “more”. (Note to self: must find code word, must share with some special.)

    I ask him if he has any photos that he loves more than the others.

    “Some of my all-time favourite photographs are pictures I took when I first met Tuuli. I really like them as images. We met when we worked together on a campaign for Elle Macpherson. I met her, we fell in love and we got married, so there are all those intense personal feelings attached to those photos,” Rankin says.

    Aside from the pictures of Tuuli, Rankin says that another favourite photo that he has taken is from “Eyescape”, a series of photos of eyes: “one of those eye photos is up on my wall. I think it’s the original test one. I haven’t tired of it yet. In fact, I think I actually like it more as time passes. There’s also a photo of a girl in flames that I did that I like a lot,” he says.

    THE RANKIN STYLEWhen I ask Rankin if he has a particular aesthetic or style he gets testy again.
    “I try to shy away from having a style. I know that there’s not just one way of lighting for instance. I’m always looking for something different. That’s part of a thread of my love for life that runs through everything I do,” Rankin explains.

    “When I was 28-29 years old, I was the guy who wanted to be successful. I wasn’t angry, but a bit aggressive. Just the other day Miley Cyrus asked me if I would work with her and do some photos that brought back my “in your face confrontational attitude”. I guess if you had to, you could say that style was unique to me during the 90’s”, he says.

    DAZED & CONFUSED AND HUNGER
    “Nowadays it’s all about celebrity,” says Rankin. I can almost see him shaking his head through the telephone.

    “Is that what happened to Dazed & Confused?” I ask. “That’s a very good question,” he answers. Rankin’s voice has dropped an octave. I ask him if he’s still a part of the magazine, his name is still on the masthead after all.

    “I’m still an owner of Dazed & Confused, but I don’t get involved with the editorial side as much anymore. Of course there’s been times over the years where I’ve had my head in my hands, as is the case with anyone that works in publishing, but I completely love the magazine, and always will. It’s been a huge part of my life and career. Whenever I meet up with any of the others [from the team], we tend to wind up talking about the history of the magazine,” he says.
    “Dazed is a magazine for young people though, and it should be run by young people and fuelled by their ideas. That’s one of the reasons that I take a backseat. Jefferson [Hack] and I have become more involved in it again recently and are planning a bit of a reinvention. As magazines change and become more digital, we need to play to our strengths. We’ve always championed the new and Dazed is still as cutting edge as it was when we founded it in the early 90s. There’s a very exciting future ahead of the magazine.”

    I wonder if Hunger is the grown-up version of Dazed & Confused? “Part of the reason I decided to start Hunger magazine, and Hunger TV was a strategic decision. I knew video was the future and I was keen to find a way to meld fashion and film into a new genre. I’ve always been a director, working on shorts and features. I just really believe in doing things like this online. Hopefully it will influence the genre,” says Rankin.

    He tells me that he is proud that his “feet are in both centuries, and part of two camps, pre- and post- Internet”. He does admit however to being glad that he didn’t have access to the Internet when he was starting out.

    “I learnt on film. I was part of a group of people that looked in books and tried to do the same things in our images that we saw in books. That’s all changed now.”

    AND FINALLY, A TINY SING-ALONG
    My final question to Rankin is what he listens to in the studio whilst working. The line goes silent and I’m afraid he’s tired of me once and for all.

    “Oh god, its so embarrassing,” he says stalling. (I conjure up my telemarketing know-how from crap jobs of yore…I’m dead quiet, and I wait.)
    “Well, I usually listen to Elton John’s “Tiny Dancer”, particularly at the end of a shoot.
    © MORE by Rankin, to be published by teNeues in October 2013, € 98, www.teneues.com

    MORE by RANKIN
    EYESCAPE ALISA
    HIGHLY FLAMMABLE 1
    PEEPSHOW 4
    PEEPSHOW 3
    EVA GREEN
    TOM HARDY
    SCARLETT JOHANSSON

Pages