• Bea putting on makeup, Boston (1973) © Nan Goldin

    This Will Not End Well

    Written by Lina Aastrup

    This Will Not End Well”
    Moderna Museet, Stockholm
    Oct 29 2022 – Feb 26 2023

    This Will Not End Well” at Moderna Museet Stockholm is an impressive retrospective of Nan Goldin’s oeuvre shown in a new way focusing on the artist as a filmmaker. In close collaboration with curator Fredrik Liew and architect Hala Wardé, six black boxes with different layout are specifically constructed to fit the artworks. Like a village of small houses inside the museum, each showing slideshows with sound – a mix of music and voiceovers where Goldin reads from medical reports, excerpts from interviews etc.

    The iconic American artist, known for her intimate photographs of the queer scene in New York in the 80s-90s, is also a fearless activist using her leverage in the artworld to fight against the artwashing of the Sackler family and their Oxycontin-fortune. The latter has recently been portrayed in the documentary “All the Beauty and the Bloodshed” (2022) by Laura Poitra which won a Golden Lion in Venice and will be shown at Stockholm Filmfestival Nov 9-20.

    While the slideshows are acutely personal, they speak of the foundations of human life - love, pain, intimacy, beauty and grief. Goldin describes the first slideshow “The Ballad of Sexual Dependency” (1981-2022) as a diary that she lets everyone read. “This Will Not End Well” is title full of humor and irony that in Goldin’s words refer to the “bright glare of mortality” that we wake up to every day of living. The exhibition takes the audience through a full range of intense and dark emotions. While extraordinary and brilliant, it is not a show you breeze through but certainly one that will linger in both heart and mind.

    The exhibition will continue on a tour to Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam, Neue Nationalgalerie in Berlin, and Pirelli HangarBicocca in Milan.

    Amanda at the sauna, Hotel Savoy, Berlin (1983) © Nan Goldin
    Greer modeling jewelry, NYC (1985) © Nan Goldin
    Jimmy, Paulette, and Misty, New York (1991) © Nan Goldin
    The hug, New York City, 1980 © Nan Goldin
  • © Amie Siegel

    The Sound of the Walls

    Written by Lina Aastrup

    Last chance to catch “The Silence” - a video work by artist Amie Siegel at ArkDes in Stockholm. The piece was commissioned by ArkDes for an exhibition on architect Sigurd Lewerentz previously this year. When our art editor Lina Aastrup met with Siegel and her musical collaborator Jeff Murcko in Stockholm in June, they were in the final phases of installing the work which is still on show until October 30. 

    The Sound of the Walls - A conversation with Amie Siegel about translating architecture, music and silence.

    Lamps suspended like singular notes hang floating in mid-air. Square gaps in a brick wall. The camera slowly moves from left to right, like it is reading a music score. Siegel lifts the image and audience, readers and listeners up up up – high in the air beneath the vaulted ceiling with its beautiful arches. We hear music coming from the organ – an odd hybrid between melody and atonality, undefinable yet enjoyable. Its regular syntax dissolved and recreated into a new language.

    Lina Aastrup: As an artist, you work with many different mediums. What about this work made you choose this particular medium?

    Amie Siegel: I visited a large number of buildings that Lewerentz designed, and I was most interested in St. Marks in Björkhagen, Stockholm and St. Peters in Klippan. In each of those churches there is this amazing brick work where certain bricks were left out creating gaps in the walls. It seemed very clear to me, looking from the walls of the churches to the organs – that Lewerentz also designed specifically for each church and which are very different from a normal organ – that there was something to do with rhythm and music that I wanted to make even more present. It wasn’t so much creating musical scores from the walls, but rather that the walls were already scores and our work was to translate them into sound and have them played by the organist in each church.
    The final work is a double channel video projection. Since the scores come from the walls of the churches, it was important that the projection was made not on screens but on walls that have been erected on opposite sides of the exhibition space. The projections alternate, like a call-and-response in a church congregation. This way, each church would have its own space and film, but they would together be the whole artwork. You can’t see one without the other.

    Jeff Murcko: Call-and-response is common in some churches like the American Baptist church for example, but it is also a musical term. Here we have a visual call-and-response situation which is also reflected in the audio.

    AS: I have made other pieces on celluloid film, and works that are sculpture, installation, assembly, photographic or performance based – but the medium always depends on the idea that drives the work. I think certain artists identify themselves by their medium, but I do not. Very importantly. I am interested in how we culturally associate certain ideas with mediums and then using those ideas to bring out our predisposition to them. Celluloid film for example is often associated with nostalgia, or paint with the luxury art market for example. So, as an artist I could never solely be engaged by one medium.

    LA: I listened to another interview with you where you called yourself a “medium-slut”.

    AS: Yes, I stand by that still. But it’s not a one-night-stand, it is a long-term engagement with everyone, with all of them.

    LA: Why deprive yourself?

    AS: Exactly, of all these things you can have pleasure in. The metaphor that keeps going - haha.

    LA: In your work “Provenance” (2013) you look at the art market system – is this work a similar take on the religious system or the church as an institution?

    AS: I understand why you would ask that question, but no, not at all. I didn’t look at the churches as religious spaces so much as spiritual spaces. Even more importantly, as spaces that are dedicated to abstract ideas that engage us in terms of our belief systems. And they deal most importantly with the immaterial, and the immaterial is everything like a belief system, and music. Because music, while it evidences itself in instruments and our voices and so forth, is immaterial as far as a medium. It doesn’t have a screen, it doesn’t have paint, it doesn’t have marble. It’s completely immaterial, so in a way there is a space that sound and music engage that feels similar to a belief in something that is not always making itself known to you. Or isn’t there. This reminded me of the God’s Silence trilogy by Ingmar Bergman where there was always a character struggling with God’s silence.* This inspired me to think about musical scores as giving, not a voice, but a musical presence to something outside and beyond of ourselves.

    LA: In terms of process, how did you go about writing and ultimately translating these musical scores from the walls into the final work?

    AS: The basic impetus of the project was to hear what I felt were embedded scores in the church architecture. And how the different churches had their different scores. So as far as process, after that it was mainly a matter of being able to decipher the score and this is where I collaborated with Jeff. What key should be it in, should it sit along the keyboard of the organ, should we do it so that it is playable by a human, and how should it take form, which cord should be assigned to which etc? So, the translation involves a level of interpretation of course. When the scores were finished, we gave them to the organists who then further interpreted them as musicians. It was important to us that they bring their own individual mode of playing. Each church only has one main organist, so they have a strong connection to their instrument. They know them well; they play them almost every week or every day even.

    JM: One of the most important aspects of the scores were the pauses since they correspond to the architecture.

    AS: Where the pattern stops and it continues only a little but later is where the pauses in the score is, so it was important that that got represented as it reflects the architecture. That the silent spaces are as important as the musical spaces.

    LA: So, you could say that the formal aspects of the work resonates with the architecture?

    JM: Yes, the spaces in the two churches that determined the note value are very different. The marks and gaps are constructed differently. St. Peters is made up of longer slats and St. Marks is very square, making one feel legato the other more staccato. Of course, to someone else they might appear differently or be interpreted differently, but to us this felt like the most logical way of reading the architecture.

    LA: Why work with churches at all when the religious aspect was not the main subject of the piece?

    AS: When I am looking for spaces for the work I do, I am interested in the program of the space. I ask what the space is for and whether there is something in the architecture that is reflected in there. For example, there is a piece I did that is quite connected to this work called “Double Negative” (2015). It was filmed outside of Paris in the Villa Savoye by Le Corbusier, and in a copy of this building in Australia. The original building is all white and the copy is black. The original building’s program was a residence but it is now a museum onto itself, a national monument of France. Whereas the copy was designed as the Australian Institute for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Studies – an Ethnographic research institute that also holds within it a vast collection of films, audio recordings and visual material related to indigenous cultures within the Torres Strait islands. This connection is what makes it interesting - why there would be a copy of a dominant, canonical, Western male architectural work in the other hemisphere?

    LA: So, you take a sociological perspective on the building?

    AS: Yes, but the works are also sound, and image driven – they are not merely documents or reportages. They are highly thought through, rigorous formal works where each choice around the image and the sound suggests something meaningful towards those concerns. My interest isn’t necessarily in architecture or in churches, ethnography or modernism – it’s in how they come together in these very strange ways and what that says about us culturally.

    Amie Siegel (Chicago, b. 1974) lives and works in Brooklyn, New York. She is internationally renowned for her multilayered, meticulously constructed works that investigate value systems, cultural ownership and image-making. Siegel is represented by Thomas Dane Gallery.

    *The God’s Silence trilogy consists of “Såsom i en spegel” (“Through a Glass Darkly”), 1961; “Nattvardsgästerna” (“Winter Light”), 1963; “Tystnaden” (“The Silence”), 1963. 

    Photo: readsreads.info, 2022
    Photo: readsreads.info, 2022
    Photo: readsreads.info, 2022
    Photo: readsreads.info, 2022
    Photo: readsreads.info, 2022
    Photo: Jason Schmidt. Courtesy of Thomas Dane Gallery
  • images courtesy of Studio Bon

    An Interview With Anna Teurnell and Marina Kereklidou

    Written by Filippa Gustafsson by Sandra Myhrberg

    With the aim of celebrating and praising inspirers, entrepreneurs, and creators in the world of culture and fashion, an eminent jury met to appoint this year's prize winners in each respective category for the seventh annual NK Gala.
    On August 30’th, the department store in Stockholm was filled with inspired and inspiring names to kick off the fall season with a grand gala, honoring the fashion world's most prominent creators, brands, and style icons. Among the winners were the fashion journalist Susanna Strömquist, the jewelry brand Rare Jewelry, and the diversity-challenging Teint plasters. With the vision of being a stage for the present that offers its customers the most inspiring commercial and cultural environment for shopping and experiences, the NK Gala is an expression of that particular vision. Odalisque got the chance to interview Marina Kereklidou, this year's Style icon, and the designer Anna Teurnell, who with her brand Teurn Studios won 2022's Promise of the future.

    When Anna Teurnell found herself feeling like something was missing on the market, she took matters into her own hands and founded the company Teurn Studios in 2021. With the issue of sustainability in focus, Teurn Studios creates exclusive garments with long durability and at a much lower price than similar qualities in the luxury fashion houses. With the brand's contribution to a shift in the fashion industry by promoting long-term consumption and aiming to be completely climate neutral before the year 2025, it's not difficult to understand why Teurn Studios is the fashion world's new hot topic.
     

    Despite their rapid success, there was a specific moment when Teurnell felt the dream was taking off, that the vision was coming to life.
    “A week after we opened the site, NK got in touch and it only took a week for us to have a small area there. During the spring, various retailers contacted us. Then I felt that there is a need for a brand - a fashion house - that unites: good and durable clothes packaged inspiringly and with personal service. At this price picture, which is simply what it costs to make really good clothes.”
     

    Let's go back in time, and tell us how the idea for your brand came about!
    “I had not really dreamed of my own brand but was driven by a desire to create my own “universe” where the clothes and the style, the quality and the communication felt like a “high fashion” brand with its own style and personality. Sometimes surprising. I want to work with creators I have come to love working with and get inspired working with, as I enjoy building both collections and teams. It also felt important to work both with garments that have a long life and a second-hand value. Working artisanally and a lot in Europe is for me a sustainable way to create clothes. Then, of course, we want to use other sustainable materials as much as we can and contribute in various ways to manufacturing, shipping, and presenting our garments in an inspiring AND sustainable way. We make garments that are suitable for many different occasions and in which you feel “strengthened and stylish and cool”.”

    How has it been to navigate in a society that has finally started to talk about the climate's impact on fast fashion and launch an idea toward change? What has that journey looked and felt like for you?
    “Above answer may answer the question to some extent, but I think there are a lot of clothes out there in the fashion jungle, but still I think there is room for more that matches what I long for and think is needed. We started quite broadly to make garments we thought the wardrobe needed to contain: Good garments to work in, good garments for more festive activities, and to feel stylish at home. We want to make clothes and accessories that, with small changes in how to combine them, make the garments work often. I also knew early on that I wanted elements of surprise. When the clothes are largely inspired by the qualitative men's wardrobe, I want there to be some element that is surprising: very feminine or even unexpected. It could be glitter boots, something bubblegum pink or a silhouette that is exciting, such as a tight fringe skirt with an oversized sweater is very stylish.”

    If you want to start changing your wardrobe from fast fashion to high fashion but don't have the financial means, what are your tips? What to focus on first? What should you think when shopping? Is there a particular piece of clothing you should purchase and invest in first?
    Anna laughs. “Well then maybe TEURN is the tip! We make fashion house garments in different price ranges and for different people, considering all the different needs you have in your “busy everyday life”. Invest in well-tailored garments that stay stylish forever, and that you feel empowered and cool in. We have different models of trousers and with a belt with a metal buckle, it will be very stylish. Complete with good knitwear this fall, our cashmere is wonderfully thick and cuddly. Our number one garment is a “cocoon” fur in a certified shearling. It enhances ALL looks both for everyday life and for parties. You stay warm and can skip a scarf as the collar is comfortably buttoned up over the neck. It is durable and only gets better with age. And you look “expensive”. Luxurious. Suitable for everything. If you want to lift your look with something less than a coat, I think our fluffy mohair hat would be the cherry on top.“

    This year's Style Icon, Marina Kereklidou, has a curiosity and knowledge of fashion history to add to her rare sense of fashion. With her personal, well-dressed style she shows off the best of Swedish fashion. She is a qualified designer and former fashion manager who nowadays works as Creative Director at Synsam with the goal of inspiring customers to continue to vary and develop their style through Eye Fashion.

    How would you say fashion has changed during the last decade and how has that influenced your own style and designs?
    “Fashion has changed since Instagram became big, it's much more about the everyday look today than it used to be. There was also perhaps a greater indifference, there is more of an individual style so everyone can find their own. Then there is an Instagram style that is concrete, that in some cases reigns over what should be right at the moment.”
     

    Has this affected your own style?
    Marina laughs. “Well, I'm not that easily influenced anymore! Or maybe, in terms of makeup I've probably changed my style.”
     

    In what way?
    “I wear more makeup now than I used to because it has become more fashionable to wear makeup than it used to be.”

    How did you come to choose the eye fashion track and how were you able to apply your previous experiences in that area?
    “It wasn't a conscious choice, sometimes you slip in on certain things, you get a question and you think it's something I can't do, that I don't know anything about so it would be fun to get to know it. So it's a bit of an event. But what's cool about that track is that you get influences from lots of brands that also make glasses in their fashion shows, and the glasses trends follow the catwalk trends, so it goes hand in hand. In that way it is exciting, then there is another aspect that I did not think about before and that is that there is just as much fit on the face as there is on bodies. I usually say that even when you did a show and you only worked with very slim models, as it was at the time when I did shows, models in sizes 36-38 also have different proportions and it is very important that you know what their proportions are, what they look best in to achieve the optimal outfit. So fit is very, very important, I think.”

    Eye fashion can be an incredible accessory if you get it right. Do you have any tips on how to think when you're looking to find the perfect frames?
    “Right now, when you call me and talk about fashion, it's about having the style you've already chosen. It's a lot about that. If you have a 70s dress, it's fantastic with a big brown 70s bow. If you have a biker jacket, it might be nice with slim black, slightly matrix glasses, it depends on what you have. But there is that little thing that makes you feel 'ah! Those glasses are perfect for that outfit'. I always have the perfect pair of glasses for whatever style I choose. No internal competition because that's how I build my wardrobe all the time, not to create internal competition. If you are unaware, you act just the opposite way. You always buy those black pumps and then you have 3-4 different black pumps and you don't know which ones to choose and there will be no difference from today to tomorrow, it's your look.”
     

    I think there are many people who only have one pair of glasses that they wear every day, no matter what they wear.
    “Yes, and we as a company have tried to remedy that because you can rent your glasses! Then you choose between three and ten pairs that you rent from us, you can see it as a subscription service. We recycle the glasses you return to us, so there is circular handling of the glasses themselves, and that way you don't have to wear the same glasses every day.”

    What do you think is the key to always daring to develop your style?
    “Curiosity! Although, I think it can be kind of cool when someone has stopped in a certain era. I had a neighbor like that, who had red permed hair, she stopped around 74 and had blue eyeshadow and black long lashes. She was super gorgeous but had stopped looking at fashion after 1974, so she had that style but she had a very distinct style. Otherwise, just be curious, look at new trends and adapt to what you like to wear, you don't have to take everything, that's the difference when you're a little older, you don't have to take after every single thing. There are so many trends that you can always take after something, but you know for yourself what you like. You have to go with your gut, you shouldn't just follow the trends because someone dictates that something should look a certain way. Thank God we live in such a world with lots of different styles and different looks that are accepted! And also different bodies and I think that's fantastic, there's nothing better.”

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