• CHANEL 2021/22 MÉTIERS D´ART SHOW

    Written by Jahwanna Berglund

    Last week Chanel presented their annual Métiers d´Art show, which honors the craft of the house’s artisans.

    This was the 20th celebration of the Métiers d´Art. It was held at the newly built “Le 19M” in the outskirts of Paris in the 19th arrondissement. 19M, an over 270,000 sq ft big building in glass and iron spread out over 7 floors that’s designed by the award winning French architect Rudy Ricciotti -  to bring together all the Chanel’s 600 specialists under one roof.

    Bruno Pavlovsky the president of fashion at Chanel:
    “For years, we’d had to deal with having specialized houses all over Paris. We wanted to create the right conditions for them to come together in order to recruit, train and transmit their savoir-faire, so that these métiers could live on.”

    In my opinion this is the strongest collection so far by Madame Viard. The knitted pieces played a dominant role together with the classic tweed. The eye catching purple pieces mixed so well with the gold that Chanel already owns. Costume jewelry and the accessories were on top and absolutely “nickel”!

    The costume jewelry have since Gabrielle Chanel's time been a signum for the house and to this day remains a complement to the elegant silhouettes.

    Like Gabrielle Chanel once said:
    “Costume jewelry isn't made to provoke desire, just astonishment at most. It must remain an ornament and an amusement.”

    I also love how Virgine involves her muses. They always play a major role before, during and after the shows.
    Model and long time house ambassador Soo Joo made her music debut as the alter ego Ether earlier this year. At the end of the show she walked straight from the catwalk to the stage built up in the venue to perform two songs, “Haemin” and “12.21” that was specially made for the Métiers d´Art final.

    Chanel is one of few fashion houses that has a female creative director and truly still stands and brings back core values in a modern yet always chic and classy way. How do you spell LOVE in French?
    I believe it starts with a C and ends with an L.

  • One of the ten winners of the Chanel Next Prize 2021 - Precious Okoyomon. Image courtesy of Chanel.

    Chanel Next Prize 2021

    Written by Lina Aastrup

    Chanel Next Prize is an international award that promotes innovation in arts and culture. Established to provide an emerging generation of artists with resources to develop new and ambitious projects, the winners receive 100,000 € in funding each, as well as access to mentorship and networking opportunities.The prize is an extension of Chanel’s legacy of arts patronage that began with Gabrielle Chanel’s support of avant-garde artists of her time and her desire to be part of what happens next, “ce qui va arriver” – hence the name “Next” Prize. The winners represent 11 countries and a wide variety of disciplines within arts and culture. Awarded biennially, the artists are nominated by a global advisory board representing different artistic practices from film to the visual arts. The 2021 jury consisted of multi-media artist Cao Fei, architect Sir David Adjaye OBE and actress Tilda Swinton.

    ”I’m obsessed with the miracle of the everyday life. I’m obsessed with how that translates into the very concept of how we imagine the good life or life itself, or how we stretch the imagined fabrics of what even we see art as.” - Precious Okoyomon, one of ten recipients of the Chanel Next Prize 2021.

    The Winners of the Chanel Next Prize 2021:
    Composer Jung Jae-il
    Collaborative practice Keiken made up of Hana Omori, Isabel Ramos and Tanya Cruz
    Game designer Lual Mayen
    Dancer and choreographer Marlene Monteiro Freitas
    Filmmaker Rungano Nyoni
    Poet and artist Precious Okoyomon
    Theatre director Marie Schleef
    Dancer and choreographer Botis Seva
    Filmmaker Wang Bing
    Filmmaker Eduardo Williams

  • photography Christofer Zagal

    fashion Diana Neumark

    .

    all clothing by Felicia Halén Fredell

    Born of Decay, An Interview with Felicia Halén Fredell

    Written by Diana Neumark by Sandra Myhrberg

    The Designer
    “When I was little I was praised for my drawings of people, this later evolved into “dressing up” my painted characters and then teenage me was thinking fashion design is the coolest thing one could do. Over time I realised it’s about the only thing I could actually do, so I naively pursued it and  entered the fashion industry like a baby ready to be moulded after anyone’s liking…” 
    - Felicia Halén Fredell 


    When  it  comes  to  fashion  and  design  Felicia  Halén  Fredell’s  thoughts  and  feelings  differs  from  the  norm  of  a  fashion designer.  In  her  graduation  project  essay  she  wrote  that  her  design  is  born  from  her  “contradictory  relationship  to fashion and the guilt it has brought”.

    Which is your favourite design piece made?
    My favourite piece is always the newest one, the one I  just made- or the one still in my head waiting to be made! Onto the next design that is always going to be bigger and better. I’ve simply stared at the ones in my archive far too long, so they don’t feel like achievements anymore.
    ‘Born of Decay’ was the name she chose for her graduation collection, shown at the catwalk when she graduated from Beckmans College of Design in Stockholm, 2018. Her ambition was to make an emotional collection, that was close to the heart and left the viewer with elusive emotions. Her goal with the design was to add as much value to fashion that it can’t be dismissed or rejected out of hand.

    “I have realised that my creativity has sprung from a critical examination approach that is often also 
    emotional rather than necessarily negative.”
    - Felicia Halén Fredell


    What is your favourite material to work with?
    I love fabrics that kind of defy people’s expectations of them. Like raw silk for example, it’s extremely rich in colour and  has  an  uneven  structure  that  gives  it  a  lot  of  life.  Most  people  seem  to  think  of  satin  as  soon  as  you  mention silk but they don’t know all the different forms the fiber can take on. Or how about a very fine wool crêpe with the most luxurious fall and matte finish, it’s destined for a draped dress - Just call me a fabric snob, I deserve it!

    Besides off being a fashion designer with a big philosophical mind she also works as a costume designer, illustrator and print designer with a focus on high craftsmanship. Since graduating from Beckmans Felicia hasn’t stopped challenging the fashion industry and its intentions with her innovative and conceptually clever yet complex fashion design. 

    Where would you say that most of your inspiration comes from?
    I strive for symbiosis between me and the wearer of my clothing. The greatest inspiration comes from the interview, which  is  the  first  consultation  where  I  get  to  know  my  customer  and  ask  questions  that  will  determine  a  design.  ” When  you  dress  yourself,  is  it  in  functional  uniform,  protective  armour,  a  statement  of  beliefs  or  a  playful  party?” This  is  followed  by,  ”are  you  happy  with  the  state  of  your  style  or  do  you  wish  to  evolve  so  it  better  matches  your inside?” And finally, ”how would you like to feel when I dress you? empowered? vulnerable? both?” I believe fashion is a fine tuned language and I want to express whatever is on the wearer’s mind.

    What can we expect from you in the future?
    You  can  expect  fashion  that  is  thoughtful,  personal  and  authentic.  There’s  always  gonna  be  a  lot  of  drama  as  well! The  launch  of  my  brand  is  somewhere  in  the  distant  future,  but  only  as  soon  as  I  have  separated  fashion  from exploitation. This  is  just  a  brief  touch  into  the  mind  of  Felicia  Halén  Fredell.  The  young  fashion  designer  that  questions  the  status quo of the clothing and fashion purpose.

    photography Christofer Zagal

    fashion & hair Diana Neumark

    model & makeup Cissi Torsler Viström  / Stockholmsgruppen

    .

    all clothing by Felicia Halén Fredell

Pages